Spooky Ride

Eh, it ain't so bad... Heheheh!

is there anyway i could see your gear box chain tensioner ?its quite scary goin over 40 on a bicycle eh!:eek:

That's pretty dang awesome, andn I've had interest in the Staton set up, so good to hear it performs well!
 
My tensioner is a simple creature, fabricated from 1/4" aluminum bar stock and using a skateboard wheel as an idler. I picked up this idea years ago from a motorcycle shop, dirt bikers were using these wheels for their chain tensioners. It simplifies fabrication because the wide surface of the wheel make alignment a breeze. Being an opportunist, I used the existing holes in the Staton chain guard for mounting the tensioner. I hope this helps someone.
 

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I went for a short test ride yesterday, thought I would see just what kind of top end this thing would do. I've just broken the engine in and haven't pushed too hard until now. I brought the bike to 40 mph with no effort and firewalled the throttle, it was frightening how quickly it hit 45 and kept accelerating when I dropped off the throttle. I believe the engine would keep accelerating until it broke. I guess thats as fast as it will ever go since I find 30 to be very adequate. Asphalt and my hide just don't mix.

Im not surprised it went like the wind using that motor - its about the most powerful one thats standard fit for gopeds and such...

Im interested in that exhaust - did that come with it or was that a home made project ... it gives me the idea that plastic plumbing joints and piping might make a good silencer ....

boring fact:- the word plumbing comes from the roman plumbum meaning the metal we call Lead - used for its pliability it only had one drawback - it slowly kills you...

Jemma xx
 
:cool:kerf, I like the fact that you're using a chain tensioner. You don't need to add or remove links when changing to a different size sprocket.

I also like how you mounted your goped fuel tank. Did you make your brackets, or is that the original goped tank mounts you're using?

Myron
 
I built the straight through glass pack muffler from copper tube and fittings. The 3/4" exhaust pipe is bored to form a baffle tube and goes all the way through the 1 1/4" outer jacket. On a prototype, I used tin solder and it failed due to heat, I had to use a copper brazing alloy with a 1400 degree melting point. I doubt that PVC or even CPVC would handle the temperature.

I'm working on another project using 1000 degree silicone exhaust tubing. You might want to look into that.
 
The tank mount is a 16 ga. steel plate that bolts to the trans. I then drilled the plate to accept bolts through the mounting holes in the tank.
 
excellent

thanx for the pics!!! ive noticed on the staton gear box that the chain trajectory from a to b is quite minimal,anything over a quarter inch from the standard chain adjust parameters,,,i got horsepower loss.:eek:
 
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:cool:kerf, I like the fact that you're using a chain tensioner.

The engineering guidlines* for roller chain suggest that this is always very desireable for vertically arrainged sprockets. The timing chains on motorcycles and car engines almost always have a tensioner on one side and fixed guide on the other. (unless they are silent chain)

Without the guides, some wierd resonances can happen at certain speeds. Gravity does the job for horizontal runs.

*Reference: Way more than you ever wanted to know about roller chain
 
Thanks for the link, it's absolutely more than this old head can absorb but still very useful. As my gear box does 90% of the reduction (18.75:1), at least my chain is running relative slow. That said, I believe the spring loaded tensioner is a better way to keep slack out of that #41.
 
:cool:The tensioner will come in handy when changing to a slightly smaller OR larger sprocket on the STATON box. No chain links will need to be added or removed.

Myron
 
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