Sprocket help and possible vacuum leak

Sloppyslopster

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I've been building this yd100/ld100 for a while now and for the most part it's done, but it has two major problems that I can never seem to fix.

First is the sprocket, the issue with it is that no matter how tightly I attach my hub, no matter the orientation, etc. It always comes loose on my rim and I've tried nearly everything I could think of from trying torqueing it down to jb-welding the inner connection, but nothing has yet to work. For anyone wondering it's a silver CDHpower sprocket hub that I got off amazon the 1-inch variant.

Now for the other annoying thing the possible leak. For as long as I've had this engine it has never ran right. It only starts when I get a good amount of speed and when I push the throttle in a bit. Another thing it does it cut out when it slows down, it acts like the speed of the engine it dependent on whether the back wheel is moving our not. Also when I give it full throttle it cuts out real bad, the bike feels incredibly slow and underpowered as well even with the mods I've done to it (High comp head, ld100 jug, triple reed valve, and a 21mm pwk carb).

I also tested the engine with the original carb and it felt almost if not even worse than with the 21mm pwk. Another thing is that when the bike is finally done running, it leaves a noticeable amount of unburned fuel(?) out of the exhaust and it also looks like synthetic oil that is slightly less viscous.

Finally the bike occasionally leaves oil on the bottom of the crankcase, no idea where it comes from but it's definitely coming from the bottom area of the case somewhere.

Again thanks for reading my abomination of a post and any help is appreciated.


Moderators Note:
I broke up The Great Wall Of China, (wall of solid text), for you in order to break up what you called an "abomination of a post" to make it more readable...lol.
 

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Have you ever used a roll pin before? You have to drill a hole inside the hub adaptor and a second hole in the hub and put a roll pin in to secure the hub/adaptor connection. Or are you talking about the sprocket coming loose on the adaptor?
 
The hub keeps loosening up issue.... Are the 2 hub pieces touching when torqued down?

Even though the hub adapter is made for 1" and the bike hub is 1" the hub adapter may not be clamping down tight on the wheel hub.

One way to approach this issue is to sand a little off each side of the adapter pieces. The flat surfaces that mate together. Ideally you want the adapter halves to be bolted tight yet still not quite be touching each other.
Care must be taken to not sand more material off one piece than the other or it may cause sprocket hole alignment issues.
Done correct.... then it should bite the hub well and not move.
A lot of these motorized bicycle parts need some specific adjusting for correct fit.
Not many of the parts meant for bolt n go work out that way for me. Most need some fine tuning.
 
The hub keeps loosening up issue.... Are the 2 hub pieces touching when torqued down?

Even though the hub adapter is made for 1" and the bike hub is 1" the hub adapter may not be clamping down tight on the wheel hub.

One way to approach this issue is to sand a little off each side of the adapter pieces. The flat surfaces that mate together. Ideally you want the adapter halves to be bolted tight yet still not quite be touching each other.
Care must be taken to not sand more material off one piece than the other or it may cause sprocket hole alignment issues.
Done correct.... then it should bite the hub well and not move.
A lot of these motorized bicycle parts need some specific adjusting for correct fit.
Not many of the parts meant for bolt n go work out that way for me. Most need some fine tuning.
I double checked my connection and yes you're right there is a small but noticeable gap in between the adapter and hub. I'll give the sanding idea a shot and ill update you guys when I'm done.
 
I ended up making a shim out of 1/8" brass to fill the space.
 
I double checked my connection and yes you're right there is a small but noticeable gap in between the adapter and hub. I'll give the sanding idea a shot and ill update you guys when I'm done.
I went through this bought sprocket/adapter CNC from B.B. My hub of was .989 when clamped 3rd sprocket bolt won't line up. B.B. said just ream the holes!!! Made shim strips from aluminum can. Then I figure out the machine work on sprocket teeth won't mesh with standard 415 chain. B.B. sends me a free chain, now I have 3 415 chains that don't fit sprocket. B.B. refused to replace sprocket. I got a bad chain tension sprocket on same order. Hole dimension not round outer race of bearing so thin it conformed to out of round sprocket. They don't Q.C. parts they buy in large orders. So check all parts if you have problems. You have a lot of chain contact to sprocket. As a rule chains and sprockets should have as close as allows to 180 contact for max efficiency. Make sure chain isn't binding or slapping.
 
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