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Whizzer 58

Local time
7:01 AM
Jan 26, 2008
Howell, Mi.
Hello everyone,

This is my first post, so please bear with me if somethings have been covered before. I bought a 2000 Whizzer a few days ago, it's been sitting for six years and has 17 miles on it. I have no manual for it and I like to know what type oil to use before I start it up. It has oil in it but I want to change it anyway, I have read that 40wt oil is used but I would like to know if a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 10W30 could be used because of the high temp of the engine. thanks
It would be best to use strait 40 weight for the first 500 miles or so then change to synthetic. My understanding is that multy weight will foam up in a whizzer motor and that strait 40 dosn't foam up. I like the synthetic I have used in mine for about 6500 miles but I waited untill after the break in. Hope this helps.
Hi Whizzer 58 , I would use valvoline 40 wt for the first 500 miles changing it every 100 mile. When you change to syn.oil use 20/50 for the impact rating ,Lighter oils are for extreme cold and hydraulic lifters.hope this helps ...Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer.............PS.My choice would be REDLINE,It has A grade 5 base
Redline has Group V basestock (polyol ester base). A multiviscosity true synthetic oil (group IV or group V) won't foam..that's silly. I would recommend you use a 5w-40 HDEO such as Delvac or equivalent.
Whizzer oil

Ok, reading labels is not always the best way to proceed when mechanics are involved.

I will NEVER reccomend a light weight multi-vis for the Whizzer.

IF I were to use a multi-weight, I would go with something close to Bill's comment about a 20-50. I would use lighter weights only if that were all that was availble, as some oil is better than none.

Currently there is a crusade to reduce the oil vapor exiting the engine, and a lighter weight oil would accellerate this tendancy. Additionally, this flathead has no need to lift oil high, as all the oiling is done oin the crancase, and in the Lifter Box.

Synthetics are to be avoided at all cost early in the life of the engine, or you run the risk of never seating the rings correctly. Current beleif is that the engine will break it's self in at about 500 miles.

Remember also, that this is a 1940's engine design, and ANY modern oil is likely to be far better than what they had then.
I just run straight 40. I also change my oil out before every ride, so I just buy the cheap-o big jug of 40 at wal-mart... When traveling across the country, my morning pre-ride ritual/safety check included changing the oil into my empty Iced tea bottle and carrying mit until I found a place to recycle it properly during the day. Anyway, I don't muck about with multi grades or synthetics, just cheap straight 40 and regular changes. BUT this is just me personally.
Hi Whizzer 58 Just talk to dave at Whizzer he said straight 40wt If using syn.oil use 20-50 this is straight from the mans mouth........ have a nice day Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer
The issue of volatility isn't much of an issue if you use a quality synthetic. I personally would use a diesel (HDEO) 5w-40 oil that is superior in many aspects to a straight weight 40. The use of a straight weight oil in this application, although manufactuer recommended, is indicative of lack of knowledge regarding significant advances made in lubrication technology in the past 20 years. Aren't whizzer's Chinese made? I know the chinese still recommend motor oil in their 2 strokes instead of 2 stroke oil.
NO "thin" oil!

Hello Skyliner, do you have a Whizzer? The ones made in Taiwan, NOT China? The factory recommends to use straight 40 weight, and after break-in, around 500 miles, IF you want, you can change to a 20-40, or 20-50 synth.

Chat boards are read worldwide in many cases, and it is important that the correct info is stated.

I recommend to you to get a Whizzer, and if you wish to run thin oil, against the factory recommendation, do just that, and report back here in about 5,000 miles to let us know how you did.

Then you can know what kind of problems might, or might not happen along the way.

Case in point: my father was an officer in the Ford V-8 Club of America, when one year he and some other club members came to my house with a very fine group of cars.

The 1936 Ford Phaeton was losing oil like someone had knifed it in it's belly. The owner was an A&P mechanic, who had insisted on putting synthetic oil in his new rebuilt flathead, probably a $4,000 vintage engine.

The thin synth was escaping everywhere, making a nasty mess of his $60,000 + car and threatening to destroy his new engine. He too had been warned!

At my house the wounded Ford had it's crankcase dropped, filter removed, dried with rags and paper towels, CORRECT 30wt detergent oil put in, and the trip continued from Sacramento to British Colombia, without him drowning those behind him in $5.00 plus a quart, hi-grade aircraft synth.

Vintage engines AND Vintage style engine require different handling than new designs.

Try it for yourself and see if it works?