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Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Whizzer 58, Jan 27, 2008.

  1. Whizzer 58

    Whizzer 58 Member

    Hello everyone,

    This is my first post, so please bear with me if somethings have been covered before. I bought a 2000 Whizzer a few days ago, it's been sitting for six years and has 17 miles on it. I have no manual for it and I like to know what type oil to use before I start it up. It has oil in it but I want to change it anyway, I have read that 40wt oil is used but I would like to know if a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 10W30 could be used because of the high temp of the engine. thanks

  2. Hi
    It would be best to use strait 40 weight for the first 500 miles or so then change to synthetic. My understanding is that multy weight will foam up in a whizzer motor and that strait 40 dosn't foam up. I like the synthetic I have used in mine for about 6500 miles but I waited untill after the break in. Hope this helps.
  3. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi Whizzer 58 , I would use valvoline 40 wt for the first 500 miles changing it every 100 mile. When you change to syn.oil use 20/50 for the impact rating ,Lighter oils are for extreme cold and hydraulic lifters.hope this helps ...Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer.............PS.My choice would be REDLINE,It has A grade 5 base
  4. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    Brent, could you post an 'intro post' ?...
    as per forum policy
  5. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    Redline has Group V basestock (polyol ester base). A multiviscosity true synthetic oil (group IV or group V) won't foam..that's silly. I would recommend you use a 5w-40 HDEO such as Delvac or equivalent.
  6. Whizzer oil

    Ok, reading labels is not always the best way to proceed when mechanics are involved.

    I will NEVER reccomend a light weight multi-vis for the Whizzer.

    IF I were to use a multi-weight, I would go with something close to Bill's comment about a 20-50. I would use lighter weights only if that were all that was availble, as some oil is better than none.

    Currently there is a crusade to reduce the oil vapor exiting the engine, and a lighter weight oil would accellerate this tendancy. Additionally, this flathead has no need to lift oil high, as all the oiling is done oin the crancase, and in the Lifter Box.

    Synthetics are to be avoided at all cost early in the life of the engine, or you run the risk of never seating the rings correctly. Current beleif is that the engine will break it's self in at about 500 miles.

    Remember also, that this is a 1940's engine design, and ANY modern oil is likely to be far better than what they had then.
  7. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    I just run straight 40. I also change my oil out before every ride, so I just buy the cheap-o big jug of 40 at wal-mart... When traveling across the country, my morning pre-ride ritual/safety check included changing the oil into my empty Iced tea bottle and carrying mit until I found a place to recycle it properly during the day. Anyway, I don't muck about with multi grades or synthetics, just cheap straight 40 and regular changes. BUT this is just me personally.
  8. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi Whizzer 58 Just talk to dave at Whizzer he said straight 40wt If using syn.oil use 20-50 this is straight from the mans mouth........ have a nice day Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer
  9. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    The issue of volatility isn't much of an issue if you use a quality synthetic. I personally would use a diesel (HDEO) 5w-40 oil that is superior in many aspects to a straight weight 40. The use of a straight weight oil in this application, although manufactuer recommended, is indicative of lack of knowledge regarding significant advances made in lubrication technology in the past 20 years. Aren't whizzer's Chinese made? I know the chinese still recommend motor oil in their 2 strokes instead of 2 stroke oil.
  10. NO "thin" oil!

    Hello Skyliner, do you have a Whizzer? The ones made in Taiwan, NOT China? The factory recommends to use straight 40 weight, and after break-in, around 500 miles, IF you want, you can change to a 20-40, or 20-50 synth.

    Chat boards are read worldwide in many cases, and it is important that the correct info is stated.

    I recommend to you to get a Whizzer, and if you wish to run thin oil, against the factory recommendation, do just that, and report back here in about 5,000 miles to let us know how you did.

    Then you can know what kind of problems might, or might not happen along the way.

    Case in point: my father was an officer in the Ford V-8 Club of America, when one year he and some other club members came to my house with a very fine group of cars.

    The 1936 Ford Phaeton was losing oil like someone had knifed it in it's belly. The owner was an A&P mechanic, who had insisted on putting synthetic oil in his new rebuilt flathead, probably a $4,000 vintage engine.

    The thin synth was escaping everywhere, making a nasty mess of his $60,000 + car and threatening to destroy his new engine. He too had been warned!

    At my house the wounded Ford had it's crankcase dropped, filter removed, dried with rags and paper towels, CORRECT 30wt detergent oil put in, and the trip continued from Sacramento to British Colombia, without him drowning those behind him in $5.00 plus a quart, hi-grade aircraft synth.

    Vintage engines AND Vintage style engine require different handling than new designs.

    Try it for yourself and see if it works?

  11. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi Mike I have one thing to say, AMEN and keep the faith Bill Green
  12. dmaddox

    dmaddox New Member

    Great discussion. Believe it or not, this helps us all to have friendly debates on what works best. For someone that is not versed well in oils, especially for the Whizzer NE5 or WC-1, or even the old is easy to just think,"Ah, Mobil 1 10-40" or whatever is the best because it costs the most, it must be the best for my motor, and by pouring 8oz of this great stuff in there - I'll gain power. Wrong.

    Sometimes we just need to learn from other folks mistakes, and luckily we have the internet now, and good folks that use the board here to learn from.

    Thanks for posting,

    Dallas - Colorado Springs
  13. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    One of the most durable parts in a new edition Whizzer motor [WC-1 or NE]is the rings. I have motors with well over 6000 miles and still use the original rings. Why do I mention this fact when talking about oil? Because the rings are so tough it takes longer to break-in the motor, because the majority of the break-in process centers around the rings "seating" in the cylinder. Two things happen when using Synt. oil, first the rings will take forever to mate to the cylinder, and secondly the thinner oil will become a victim to "blow-by" and push the expensive oil out through the breather system. During the break-in process [prior to the rings sealing the cylinder] a fair amount of pressure will collect in the crankcase, and of course when the rings seat the pressure drops. Another concern that needs addressed is compairing "air" verses "water" cooled motors. During recent tests it became apparent the oil "foams". I guess when you "beat" the oil with the rod "dasher" in has a tendency to mix air with the oil and create foam. So consider the following, straight weight oil doesn't foam as much as many Synt. oils, Synt. oil doesn't offer much in the way of performance, and Synt. oil cost a lot more. I tested many types of Synt. oils and eventually went back to straight 40 Wt. Of course I change the oil often in my Whizzers [approx. 300 to 500 miles per change], so I find it less expensive to throw away straight 40 Wt. as opposed to Mobil One.
    Whizzer OuterBanks,
  14. bill green

    bill green Member

    Hi quention you are so right on the money 40wt change it alot ,have a great ride ,PS, with NO filter on A splash system and only 8oz I change it every 100 miles .ITS CHEEP .Bill Green Vancouver Whizzer