Spring time rides had me questioning the engines strength on my personal/race bike,It was still running well but lost some pull after over 1k of hard miles. So I figured time to rebuild again and since I had to pull the engine I figured might aswell take it all apart and start over since it has been 5 years since it was first built I think it was due!
Starting again!
- Thread starter Street Ryderz
- Start date
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
This bike like all our bikes has gone thru the never ending stages of evolution to see what works for it,it's purpose built to attain high speeds safely IMO due to the frame being steel 45 and 50mm top and down tube dia with thick walls,it's a bit heavy but it's strong the years I've put on it allready have more than proved that to me when I stripped the frame for paint there was not one sign of stress anywhere.The welded in mounting tubes allow the engine to sit as it should making it a gusset between the down tube and seat tube again just adding to the strength,it's forks are also rigid large dia thick walled steel with thick aluminum triple trees and threadless headset I personaly trust that setup much more than the treaded and a quill.To stop it has 203mm rotors f/r with cable actuated calipers linked to spliter on a single lever (on the right) this allows one to set some bias and made it so that brake fade was not an issue any more compared to just the big front LOL it stops fast now!Ive been using 26" mags for a few years now and only isue i had was my own fault in that I used the stock fasteners to attach the gear/spacer/rotor to the rear disc mount and sheared them all clean so after extracting the remaining I drilled/tapped it deeper and sunk the fasteners into the hub 20mm and have a shoulder that perfectly fits the gear/spacer/rotor mount holes and of course now grade 8.8 and still tight.The mags have dual raced sealed bearings with a spacer on the solid axle inside the hub that keeps the inner races from being offset so they run dead true and are way over rated for the rpm even at 70+I had a video link on here i think where the rear wheel spun on it's axle unsuported(balanced) and took over 5 min to stop lol.Balanced was the point that needs to be made here again to be safe anyway after 40-45mph wheel balance alone can stop you from going any faster for a couple of good reasons but this is all ready long.The engine all the work done on it and it's predacesors has been posted here on the forum it's been working well and gets around 2k miles average before needing rebuilt.There are videos on the site aswell of it just ridding around on the rez or night rides on the mountain side roads and in town check them out.Here's some pic's showing it's stages so far LOL.
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Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
All back together!
Spare_Parts
Well-Known Member
Well that was fast!
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Spare_Parts
Well-Known Member
When do we get to see inside that engine 
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
The wheebase is 50.5" and quite nice to ride very smooth I'll post a video of it cruising with my buddy effortlessly LOL.
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
I've posted alot about this engine my last few have all had the same work done.This set up is what works for me and still get mileage out of it and I don't mean fuel economy.I have 2 old half breed case's that have the small front mount width,The cranks are balanced and trued and the keyway's relocated (5 degrees retarded),the case half's get there transfer feeds blended to match jug witch has large area port work and the transfers exhaust side walls back cut to redirect the flow angle,I use a knife edged rod to reduce case turbulance and help in obtaining the balance factor.it runs with an OKO 24mm carb and custom pipe turning 11/30 gearing.When do we get to see inside that engine
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