Starting in Cold Weather

Can you start your motorized bike in cold weather?


  • Total voters
    98
When i took my bike out the other morning, since i've not had it for too long, i still have the mixture at 20:1 (gas and oil) and once it's warmed up, it runs fine in cold weather. I think when i took it out friday morning it was around 5 below zero F degrees to zero. a bit chilly, but it was fun none-the-less. just let 'er warm up with the choke and stuff...
 
DrewD said:
1000 miles for break in on this engine? Sorry, but that is in no way accurate. I have a new engine that I will measure break in with a compression guage. I'll measure compression after every 2 hours of use and let you know when maximum compression occurs. Max compression is indication that rings are properly seated.

but its not just the rings you are breaking in
its the crank the bearings everything that wears has to build a proper clearance for itself when being broken in.
but yes 1000 miles is way overkill no doubt

i would say 100-200 miles is enough for engines this size
on my old dirtbike 1978Yz80 i did rebuild with overbore and race piston i rode it for around 3 hours each day for a week never going into the powerband for long.. afterwards i rode it for 3 years on the same build and the only time i had a problem was when the connecting rod bearings went out from wear i should have replaced them when i did the topend..

so highest compression may mean the top end is broken in but whos to say 2 weeks later after the same (casual) riding style it may not improve by 3psi or the rings are seated well because of heat but when it cools down they rotate a little and become unseated again and after the next startup compression can be lower (when hot) making you repeat this process
DONT USE SYNTHETIC DURING BREAK IN! <--- my advice
theres many factors that can come into play at break in..
thats why its very hard to get one solid answer.

ive heard some crazy storys from some people saying drive it crazy to break it in... these are usually the guys racing very expencive crotch rockets with much nicer cyl's and machineing than these engines.
 
DONT USE SYNTHETIC DURING BREAK IN! <--- my advice

I worked on an airport for awhile with my ex girlfriends grandfather and he sold mineral oil made specifically for breaking in aircraft prop engines. He said the same exact thing. The "grit" in natural oils aids in the break in process. He said without mineral oil break in engines (at least piston driven aircraft ones) are prone to failure because pieces stay too tight and don't wear in properly. For the same reason full synthetics are excellent after break in to reduce wear. Apparently these mineral oils are so important to the break in process that he flew all over the north east delivering this stuff to pilots when they were in a pinch after overhauls.
 
In the cold,I choke it up and she fires right up then I feel for that choke thru my thick gloves and sometimes I get it but usually I have to stop and run my engine till the choke is all the way down.
MMMMMMmmmmmmmmm......
That gives me another idea.
Imagine having the choke contol...right on the handlebar or frame within your sight on your right so right hand don't have to reach around while you're on the gas...
...stay tuned.
 
Along the same lines . . .

This is my first time posting here and it comes after I've searched countless threads and still can't find an answer to my question. I thought this thread would have all the answers but my carb still befuddles me.

I just put together a bike with a 65cc Chinese two-stroke and I'm having a serious problem getting it started. I believe the problem is caused from the cold (currently 45 degs here in Montana) and the carburetors dislike of it. What I believe is happening is that something in the carb has shrunk due to the cold and it's not limiting the amount of gas coming from the tank. Before I even attempt to start the bike, once I've turned the fuel on, I can see a very steady drip of fuel leaking from the air intake. I had a similar problem with a 48cc I have but once I got that bike started, the leak would go away. And the key is that I could get that one started. My 65cc has the same leak but I can get it past an idle with the choke on. If I give it any gas it bogs down and dies. I let it run at idle for a while to see if warming it up helped. When I began moving the choke down, the engine begins to speed up and then dies (like it does just as you run out of gas). I think my carb is letting too much fuel in and flooding the engine but can't think of how to fix the problem. After quite a bit of pedaling try to get it started again, I actually saw a little fuel drip from the exhaust pipe.

If anyone has an answer or has experienced similar problems, can you please let me know? I can't wait until summer to get riding again!

Also, has anyone found any other/better carbs that work with the Chinese two strokes?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I used to flood the engine by accident , but then I realized that you need only depress the tickler for 2 seconds, keep the throttle closed and fire away. Dynamically adjust the choke depending on conditions.

BSA
 
Back
Top