Staton/GXH50 Chopper build

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by pmarkwell, Sep 5, 2008.

  1. pmarkwell

    pmarkwell Member

    My kit finally came in. YAY! So here it goes. I've already run into a couple of problems/questions here. When mounting the bottom brackets, will it be okay to use the stock holes or do I have to drill to a larger size?

    I see that I'm going to need to extend the Staton box out to clear the banana seat, but I didn't order the extensions. What metal should I use to make them?

    One more thing. Can you mount the box at any degree? I think I might have to in order to keep the motor upright.


    Attached Files:

  2. pmarkwell

    pmarkwell Member

    yet another day

    Okay, so I I got most of the gear on the bike today. I also went out and bought some 3/16 x 1 1/4 steel for the extension bracket.

    Here's what I've got so far:
    My cheap @$$ stand broke under the weight so now I'm forced to lay it on the ground to work on it. :???: As you can see by the pic, my engine now rests at a little over 45* which I don't think is going to be acceptable. The gearbox is currently mounted at about a 15* downslope and I need it at ~45* upslope. I'm not sure how to change it. Help, anyone?

    My extensions looke like they are going to be about 12" long. Dave sells his at 8", is this going to sacrifice integrity?

    Also, I mounted the tire today and I had to spread the fork apart with my hands and shove it in to get it in the brackets. Will that be a problem? I bought the wheel from Dave on his site, and the axel is wider and longer than the stock one that came with my bike when I bought it. My bike also now doesn't have any breaks :shock: since I was using a pedal brake so I suppose I will need to install a set of those too (unless I have a death wish).

    Comments, questions, insults?

    Thanks in advance guys!

    Last edited: Sep 6, 2008
  3. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    i see what you're going for but you have some real hindering realities.

    first, was that frame originally built as a single speed / coaster brake ?

    second, is that a multi speed freewheel hub in there now ? this sort of thing is not impossible but the frame MUST be opened at the same rate across the same distance in order to retain structural and allignment integrity.

    third, the only way you are going to get the drive to work out on that frame with that seat is to pull the support tube hardware back off and set it aside for now.

    leave the bike and engine on their side and move the engine and drive as close to the seat as possible in as nearly horizontal position as you can.

    now pick up the rear support tubes and lay them near what it will take to have them support the engine and drive in it's present position.

    if you continue , you are going to be cutting the support legs down in length (from the top) you will also notice that your setback brackets are going to be much shorter and at a more managable angle.

    fourth, i'm a guy that LIKES this kind of stuff EVEN if it goes badly and i have to make many changes but, the combination of THIS bike and THIS drive are NOT very compatable.

    take a pic of the layout as i descibe and show us the result.

  4. hill climber

    hill climber Member

    2 stroke engine wont care of its mounting orrientation, does not have to stay level. as for the gearbox, i dont see it and have never seen a staton gear box, but i would think that if it has some sort of lube in it that it would be fine also. are you going for a chain drive?
  5. my suggestions

    according to the staton instructions the gear box should be 1" above the rear wheel. I don't think the supplied chain in the kit will be enough for your present gear box to wheel distance. My suggestion would be to lower the engine/gearbox [you'll have to cut the square tubes] and cut the U bracket down after positioning your longer extensions to determine the cut and redrill. hope this helps
  6. edited photo of chopper

    here is a lowered engine and longer extension edited photo of your bike:grin:

    Attached Files:

  7. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member


    that's about what i was suggesting, the engine and gear box are going to be higher in back lower in front of course (level),gear box should be all but touching the back of the seat i'd think and he MAY be able to use the "U" bracket at nearly full height depending on how far forward it will have to be to allow some brakes to fit in there.

  8. pmarkwell

    pmarkwell Member

    Cool, thanks for the pic Bill. I like the cut and paste. :smile:

    Steve - yes, this bike was originally a coaster brake setup, but I ordered a beefier wheel from Dave at Staton, and didn't realized that it wasn't. You're also correct about the multigear sprocket on there. I went to the local bike shop to get a single sprocket and they said they didn't make them. I don't think that's true, but I was in a hurry and wanted to get going with this thing. If anyone has leads on where to get one, then I'll take this one back and order the single.

    No big deal. I don't mind modding out what I can, as long as it doesn't go far beyond my expertise. I have a wood shop, but haven't worked much with metal so a lot of this is new to me. The ol' learning curve starts yet again.

    So this is what I've got:


    One other thing. The eye bolt( I think it's called) slips right out of the square brackets. I guess I'm not sure how to tighten those in either. Am I missing something here?

    I wish I had your know-how. One step at a time I suppose. I was really hoping to have a bike to ride for the summer. I didn't realized it would take so long to get my stuff. That's ok, here in S. Oregon there's still plenty of good weather for the next couple of months.

  9. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member


    you have the layout pretty much in hand now. you will need to get the gear box as level as possible by triming the square tubes, then rotate the engine forward toward level as well if you can.

    the thumb screws are supposed to be like that. once you have the front straps connected they will stay put in the tubes. don't cut too much off the tubes at a time, the chain is going to stretch a great deal and when you take up the slack you don't want to run out of bolt.

  10. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    The Honda GXH50 is a 4 stroke and will want to be level. If it has the standard low oil cutoff switch, it will cut out regularly if the engine is off level. Also, this engine is splash lubricated and should be close to level for proper lubrication.
  11. duivendyk

    duivendyk Guest

    Quite so,raise the rear to get it level,maybe you could try to use the rear stay of the banana seat to mount the U bracket for forward aft stabilization, if it is solid enough.The torque reaction from the drive train will try to pivot the whole shebang towards the rear !
  12. pmarkwell

    pmarkwell Member

    Yeah, I have it pretty much mounted now and have noticed it tends to be very wobbly from side to side. I haven't filled all the empty gaps of the bolts with nuts or spacers yet. That should help some, right?



    Should I rotate the engine a little? I could either do that or raise the end of the gear box to keep my engine at vertical. How do I loosen the motor to rotate the gear box?

  13. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

  14. duivendyk

    duivendyk Guest

    You need to get some sideways stiffness in there somehow.It's a long way to the mounting point way forward,a U bent plate bolted on would help,the tail is wagging the dog.
  15. pmarkwell

    pmarkwell Member


    I've been able to work out some of the lateral sway out of the back end but, it's definitely going to need some help! Also, looks like the chain clearance to the bracket is going to be too tight due to the angle of the gear box.

    You can see from the picture that there's also a bolt that should clear once I turn it around down at the bottom. The chain angle is ~ 30*. Can I adjust gearbox to a 30* downward angle? How do you loosen the motor to rotate the gearbox?

    I think that sissy bar is going to be my saving grace instead of my demise if I brace the extension bars to it. The metal is fairly thin though. I'm actually surprised at how they hold my weight at 215+ lbs. Any thoughts on how to strap, bolt, or affix the two together some how? I think that drilling straight throught the bar itself would sacrifice integrety too greatly. Don't say duct tape. Super glue, rubber bands, fixadent, whipped egg yolk? Any ideas?

  16. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    reverse that bolt, so that the head is inside and the nut is out. i did them all that way, alittle less "stuff" back there and it's easier to see i fone is loose or missing.

    i don't think you can rotate the engine , other than in 45* units. there are four bolt thru the gear box housing into the engine block.

  17. duivendyk

    duivendyk Guest

    Get an L angle iron to clamp to the Sissy bar (small bolts + J B Weld?) bolt a plate solidly onto angle irons ,I don't know how much room you have vertically, remember that engine has to be fairly level.You may be in deep doudou or dudu or dudou, whatever
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 10, 2008
  18. sway

    your extensions need a seperate bolt for each side of the U mount. Looks like there is a long bolt that goes through the U mount and the extensions. Looks like a lot of sway might be there. The U mount [in most cases]has the long bolt goes thru the u mount.eye bolt ,several spacers then thru the gear box and out the otherside----spacers,eye bolt and opposite end of the u mount then secured with nylock nut. With your present U mount/extension set up a bunch of spacers or a cut to fit piece of conduit or two seperate bolts to hold the extensions are needed to hold the extensions tight and firm against the U mount.
    Another thought--------- Does the seat have to be as low as it is? If the seat were more level and a little bit higher you might be able to move the gear box several more inches forward under the rear of the seat:?: