Staton/GXH50 Chopper build

pmarkwell

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My kit finally came in. YAY! So here it goes. I've already run into a couple of problems/questions here. When mounting the bottom brackets, will it be okay to use the stock holes or do I have to drill to a larger size?

I see that I'm going to need to extend the Staton box out to clear the banana seat, but I didn't order the extensions. What metal should I use to make them?

One more thing. Can you mount the box at any degree? I think I might have to in order to keep the motor upright.

Paul
 

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pmarkwell

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yet another day

Okay, so I I got most of the gear on the bike today. I also went out and bought some 3/16 x 1 1/4 steel for the extension bracket.

Here's what I've got so far:
picture.php

My cheap @$$ stand broke under the weight so now I'm forced to lay it on the ground to work on it. :???: As you can see by the pic, my engine now rests at a little over 45* which I don't think is going to be acceptable. The gearbox is currently mounted at about a 15* downslope and I need it at ~45* upslope. I'm not sure how to change it. Help, anyone?

picture.php

My extensions looke like they are going to be about 12" long. Dave sells his at 8", is this going to sacrifice integrity?

Also, I mounted the tire today and I had to spread the fork apart with my hands and shove it in to get it in the brackets. Will that be a problem? I bought the wheel from Dave on his site, and the axel is wider and longer than the stock one that came with my bike when I bought it. My bike also now doesn't have any breaks :eek: since I was using a pedal brake so I suppose I will need to install a set of those too (unless I have a death wish).

Comments, questions, insults?

Thanks in advance guys!

Paul
 
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DetonatorTuning

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i see what you're going for but you have some real hindering realities.

first, was that frame originally built as a single speed / coaster brake ?

second, is that a multi speed freewheel hub in there now ? this sort of thing is not impossible but the frame MUST be opened at the same rate across the same distance in order to retain structural and allignment integrity.

third, the only way you are going to get the drive to work out on that frame with that seat is to pull the support tube hardware back off and set it aside for now.

leave the bike and engine on their side and move the engine and drive as close to the seat as possible in as nearly horizontal position as you can.

now pick up the rear support tubes and lay them near what it will take to have them support the engine and drive in it's present position.

if you continue , you are going to be cutting the support legs down in length (from the top) you will also notice that your setback brackets are going to be much shorter and at a more managable angle.

fourth, i'm a guy that LIKES this kind of stuff EVEN if it goes badly and i have to make many changes but, the combination of THIS bike and THIS drive are NOT very compatable.

take a pic of the layout as i descibe and show us the result.

steve
 

hill climber

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2 stroke engine wont care of its mounting orrientation, does not have to stay level. as for the gearbox, i dont see it and have never seen a staton gear box, but i would think that if it has some sort of lube in it that it would be fine also. are you going for a chain drive?
 
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recumbentbill

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my suggestions

according to the staton instructions the gear box should be 1" above the rear wheel. I don't think the supplied chain in the kit will be enough for your present gear box to wheel distance. My suggestion would be to lower the engine/gearbox [you'll have to cut the square tubes] and cut the U bracket down after positioning your longer extensions to determine the cut and redrill. hope this helps
 
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recumbentbill

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edited photo of chopper

here is a lowered engine and longer extension edited photo of your bike:D
 

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DetonatorTuning

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R-Bill,

that's about what i was suggesting, the engine and gear box are going to be higher in back lower in front of course (level),gear box should be all but touching the back of the seat i'd think and he MAY be able to use the "U" bracket at nearly full height depending on how far forward it will have to be to allow some brakes to fit in there.

steve
 

pmarkwell

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Cool, thanks for the pic Bill. I like the cut and paste. :)

first, was that frame originally built as a single speed / coaster brake ?

second, is that a multi speed freewheel hub in there now ? this sort of thing is not impossible but the frame MUST be opened at the same rate across the same distance in order to retain structural and allignment integrity.
Steve - yes, this bike was originally a coaster brake setup, but I ordered a beefier wheel from Dave at Staton, and didn't realized that it wasn't. You're also correct about the multigear sprocket on there. I went to the local bike shop to get a single sprocket and they said they didn't make them. I don't think that's true, but I was in a hurry and wanted to get going with this thing. If anyone has leads on where to get one, then I'll take this one back and order the single.

if you continue , you are going to be cutting the support legs down in length (from the top) you will also notice that your setback brackets are going to be much shorter and at a more managable angle.

No big deal. I don't mind modding out what I can, as long as it doesn't go far beyond my expertise. I have a wood shop, but haven't worked much with metal so a lot of this is new to me. The ol' learning curve starts yet again.

So this is what I've got:
picture.php


picture.php


One other thing. The eye bolt( I think it's called) slips right out of the square brackets. I guess I'm not sure how to tighten those in either. Am I missing something here?
picture.php


fourth, i'm a guy that LIKES this kind of stuff EVEN if it goes badly and i have to make many changes but, the combination of THIS bike and THIS drive are NOT very compatable.

I wish I had your know-how. One step at a time I suppose. I was really hoping to have a bike to ride for the summer. I didn't realized it would take so long to get my stuff. That's ok, here in S. Oregon there's still plenty of good weather for the next couple of months.

Paul
 

DetonatorTuning

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Paul,

you have the layout pretty much in hand now. you will need to get the gear box as level as possible by triming the square tubes, then rotate the engine forward toward level as well if you can.

the thumb screws are supposed to be like that. once you have the front straps connected they will stay put in the tubes. don't cut too much off the tubes at a time, the chain is going to stretch a great deal and when you take up the slack you don't want to run out of bolt.

steve
 
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HoughMade

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2 stroke engine wont care of its mounting orrientation, does not have to stay level...

The Honda GXH50 is a 4 stroke and will want to be level. If it has the standard low oil cutoff switch, it will cut out regularly if the engine is off level. Also, this engine is splash lubricated and should be close to level for proper lubrication.
 
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