Staton-Inc friction drive review at 50 miles

T

TWalker

Guest
It gets a good thumbs up except for 2 things:

1. The low oil shut off had to be disabled becuase it it shut down the engine on bumps.
2. It does not freewheel down hills, Staton didn't tell me that but some members here made that claim! It will start freewheeling at between 10-15 MPH when the clutch disnegages. Rolling down long hills at speed the clutch is still engaged and rolls nicely but dont mistake that for freewheeling, the engine is engaged and turning and creating a pull until the clutch disengages.

I was little dissapointed it didnt come with a kill switch and I think it would be good to show pictures of EXACTLY what comes with the kit.

But Kudos to Staton on a very fine piece of machinery overall.

Below is what I posted in another thread about my positive experience with Staton.
I got my Staton friction last week fairly quickly I think around 9 days. Its been on 2 bikes so far and more to come, thats why I bought the friction kit. I logged maybe 50 miles so far and it is outstanding, the friction part that is. The motor wouldnt stay running due a low oil shut off problem on the Honda.

I live in in the mountains where there are nothing but hills and mountains and it performed well except in wet conditions of course. I took it up what we call the Swiss Chalet mountain pass yesterday and it made with some pedaling. Half way up it started raining near the top it started slipping on the Kenda Flame tire. But of course this about a 2 mile steep grade in the Rocky Mountains so I was impressed I finally got to ride up it.

people always ask: will these things make it up Swiss Chalet pass? My answer now: Yes even with friction drive.

In dry conditions the Honda GXH50 will bog down before it slips, then its pedal time.

Yes friction drive works pretty well but it wont be long now before I move on to gear/chain and Nuvinci transmission/hub. I need to sell my motorcycle and then it's off to the big time.
 
The Staton friction drive will not freewheel, EVER, unless you raise the drive roller. Freewheeling means zero drag from the drive train. Now, if your talking clutch disengagement, that's another issue and it should happen only when RPM drops. As long as the clutch rotor is turning fast enough to override the springs, it stays engaged, doesn't matter if the engine is turning it or the bikes own inertia.
 
I'm surprised your Honda didn't come with a kill switch. How do you turn the engine off?

You can make your own kill switch to shut off the engine, or just choke the engine.

FWIW, I have a Staton friction drive and Staton gear chain drive. Even though the chain drive is more effective and freewheeling, friction is simpler and quicker to remove/reinstsll. I like that option of its easy, cheap retrofit.

5-7
 
I too have both and your right on target. My wife's running one of my friction drives and won't part with it, lite, simple and quiet.
 
The Staton friction drive will not freewheel, EVER, unless you raise the drive roller. Freewheeling means zero drag from the drive train. Now, if your talking clutch disengagement, that's another issue and it should happen only when RPM drops. As long as the clutch rotor is turning fast enough to override the springs, it stays engaged, doesn't matter if the engine is turning it or the bikes own inertia.

I would disagree to a point. A bicycle freewheel spins one direction, it "freewheels" when the wheel spins faster than the rider moves the drivetrain chain, it is still providing a miniscule amount of drag as the freewheel internals are moving against each other, yet we still refer to it as a freewheel.

Same thing with an engine,(at least in my head) if the engine disengages I consider that freewheeling.


If not then there really is no such thing as a true freewheel, there will always be some resistance somehwere even in a bicycle "freewheel gear".

ugghh..details details....:)
 
There is also resistance from friction in the wheel bearings and tires, wind resistance, etc, so whats your point? The drag of a drive roller against the tire in very noticeable to me but the drag from the ACS freewheel on my chain drive is not.
 
There is also resistance from friction in the wheel bearings and tires, wind resistance, etc, so whats your point? The drag of a drive roller against the tire in very noticeable to me but the drag from the ACS freewheel on my chain drive is not.


Your point is a Staton friction never freewheels unless taken of the tire, I just disagree. Yes a friction roller on the tire is more resistance than the internals of bike freewheel but I consider the friction drive freewheeling when the clutch closes the engine no longer turns and bike only has to turn a roller with bearings.

Wind resistance, tires and bearings play no role in freewheels. But your point is well taken.

I will agree to disagree. :)
 
Let's just say that friction drive is literally a drag on the freewheeling rear tire. It's feels like slacking off the gas in a car, in high gear with a manual transmission.

When the clutch closes, the heavy drag is still there. In fact, there's LESS drag when the engine is idling at say 5mph, especially if the engine has a high idle speed.
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