Staton Install Help

Solux

Active Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
275
Hey guys, so I got my kit in the mail this morning and going to install it. But could use some advice. First thing, on the U bracket I threaded the bolts all the way but can't get any tighter because the bolt ran out of thread, do I just need spacers? And for the 2 brackets it's a bolt and screw, however the hole is threaded but the bolt and screw aren't long enough. Is it okay to just loctite it? It's threaded in far, just bolt isn't long enough to get the nut on the other side. Thanks. Also, do the support arms need to go on the inside of the seat stays? I did a dry fit and took some pictures so maybe that will help get a better view of what's going on.

Also, is there an install video anywhere?
 

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Bonefish

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Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
666
Add some washers to your nuts for the first problem. I had my support bars on the outside if that helps, there should be spacers to make up for the gaps where the skewer goes.
 
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Bonefish

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Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
666

Here are two installation videos from BMP friction drive bicycle that are pretty similar to Staton's Friction Drive.
 

Solux

Active Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
275
Thanks for the help. I think I'm pretty close to getting this thing installed right. Here's a few more pictures. Why is the quick releases so close to the engine? Is everything looking okay? Is it okay that the support bars aren't straight up and down? I did have to go to the hardware store to get longer bolts for the support bars, and more washers.
 

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Cavity

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2015
Messages
105
Looking good so far. đź‘Ť
Yes, the left side of the quick release skewer is normally very close to the engine. If it's too close, just buy/replace it with a smaller QR nut.
Black 15" support bar position differs on every bike, normally they will not be vertical.
Just make sure the bolts, washers, and nut for the bottom support bar, on the right side, don't interfere with the rear sprockets in the highest few gears.
If the black aluminum channel and roller are not centered, you can adjust the u-bracket left/right, or the Keps nuts on either side of the black channel. Keeping the roller perpendicular to the tire is paramount.
In one of your pics, it looks like the Keps nuts are still sitting on the couch, those need to go in the long bolt in the front of the channel/ U-bracket.
 
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5-7HEAVEN

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
2,108
I replaced the long bolt for the U-bracket wi threaded rod.

It made installation and adjustments MUCH easier!
 

darwin

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Joined
May 26, 2008
Messages
4,391
Looks good in pic 1505 from the side view. Remember you can move the Uclamp further down if you want to push the motor farther out. Also those holes in the Uchannel where the support rods attach can be utilized if you need more length for up/down adjustment for the roller pressure. Be careful not to crush the frame by over tightening the 3 bolts that hold the Uchannel. Your getting it just fine and will ride very soon.
 

Solux

Active Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
275
Thanks guys, I got it fired up and running. Haven't done a test ride yet though. I thought these were centrifugal clutches? With the engine up off the wheel, the spindle is still spinning? Is the idle too high? Also my kill switch doesn't seem to be working. Maybe just a poor connection, I'll double check.
 
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