Staton Kit Help

You can adjust the throttle stop screw with a screwdriver my subaru bike did the same thing the cable is pulling the throttle at idle if you want the cable off the butterfly take a needle nose and push towards the open slot and up. I had an EHO 35 basically same thing just do some adjusting. For me the cable was as a weird angle so it was pulling it. Should be an easy fix.
 
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Is there just one wire coming out of your kill switch? If so, then it has to be tightened down to make a solid ground.

Keep your air filter off, and remove the cable from the carb. Start it up and watch how the throttle works, then you can adjust the idle and put cable back on.
Yeah just one wire. Well that makes sense, I'll just move it to a new location so I can use the screw that came with it. Thank you so much for the info!
 
Thanks everyone for the help! You guys are great. I'll update you on my progress!
 
I fixed the idle! Running like a dream now. I had to move that washer on the adjustment screw for the throttle to the other side. And finally got the kill switch working.
 
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In the video I show the little slide on the engine when I pull the throttle. It seems to be moving back and forth fine.

Yeah that's the one thing I didn't mount down yet, mainly because handlebar is to big. But just wanted to get a ride in. Will find a way to mount it securely soon.
If handlebar is too big and you're using adjustable clamps, use a second same-kind clamp, trim for length and connect in series to the first adjustable clamp.
 
Realized my handlebars are aluminum lol. Kill switch needs to ground on raw steel. For now just hooked it to my seatpost. Want to do what someone suggested eventually, which is run a electrical wire from the kill switch mounting bracket, back to the engine mount and ground it that way.
 
Realized my handlebars are aluminum lol. Kill switch needs to ground on raw steel. For now just hooked it to my seatpost. Want to do what someone suggested eventually, which is run a electrical wire from the kill switch mounting bracket, back to the engine mount and ground it that way.

Umm, aluminum is a very good electrical conductor.

Much better than iron or steel.

Of course, the best ground is a direct engine ground.
 
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Umm, aluminum is a very good electrical conductor.

Much better than iron or steel.

Of course, the best ground is a direct engine ground.
Well that's odd, cause when I had it on my handlebars, it wouldn't work.
 
The problem with running electricity through differing metals is it can damage the contact points over time similar to an anode and cathode in a battery: the anode loses metal over time and it crystallizes on the cathode. Having a fluid medium that acts as an electrolyte in between can speed up this process. It's basically electrolysis.
 
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