Will'smotobikes19
Well-Known Member
Well if the alum rod is good quality and a good amount of red loctite milled flat should work good. The 54mm version seems easier to build an engine from?
Brazing rod melts at higher tempyea, thats sad, rob seems to think hes better than everyone, toxic attiude (small pepe sindrome).
also, i would use jb weld to fill the ports, those rods will just heat up like solder, when the engines warmed up.
(jb weld should hold up fine, 550F, just make sure its the OG, not the kwik, i learned my lesson lol)
and its a 56mm, you might need to mill it out so it clears the bottem end.
lets see it make some big power!
I don’t even know where I would find a rod from one of them or what to even look for.FWIW the new true 80cc chinagirl motors use a 12mm wrist pin now. Don't remember if the big end is the same size or not though.
Never seen one in person yet.
not recommended, bcs let's say you have 16mm bit. it's not a precision 16.000mm. it could be 16.005 or w/e. you could drill 15.9 then ream it to 16mm and be within .0005. bearings are pretty close tolerances and need that. you could get chatter and chew up the pin, then trash the cylinder when the piston jumps around, killing the rings, you look down at 33mph at a horrible screech and don't see the pedestrian crossing the road and you both go down and it'd be messy lolBad idea to drill the rod to 16mm?
What about doing the bushings? Cheaper, 5 pack more easy to adapt to a machine to enlargenot recommended, bcs let's say you have 16mm bit. it's not a precision 16.000mm. it could be 16.005 or w/e. you could drill 15.9 then ream it to 16mm and be within .0005. bearings are pretty close tolerances and need that. you could get chatter and chew up the pin, then trash the cylinder when the piston jumps around, killing the rings, you look down at 33mph at a horrible screech and don't see the pedestrian crossing the road and you both go down and it'd be messy lol