Stihl Ms660 56mm Project (Zeda Frankenstein) Now 54mm

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Jag

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I’m Going to build a “Zeda Frankenstein” Motor that has a Stihl ms660 cylinder & piston.

I’m putting this here Incase someone is looking into building one and can’t find enough info.

The bolt holes on a ms660 are further out than what’s standard on a motorized bike. To fix this I’m filling in the old thread holes with low temp aluminum brazing rod and retapping new ones, while I’m doing that I’m also going to have to fill in the transfers along with stuffing the crankcase.

Low temp rod ( 2mm thick 20pcs )
Cheap china 56mm top end

Other thread
 
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I’m Going to build a “Zeda Frankenstein” Motor that has a Stihl ms660 cylinder & piston.

I’m putting this here Incase someone is looking into building one and can’t find enough info.

The bolt holes on a ms660 are further out than what’s standard on a motorized bike. To fix this I’m filling in the old thread holes with low temp aluminum brazing rod and retapping new ones, while I’m doing that I’m also going to have to fill in the transfers along with stuffing the crankcase.

Low temp rod ( 2mm thick 20pcs )
Cheap china 56mm top end

Other thread
nice!
cant wait to see the build, (ive been thinking of building a 54mm version l for myself, but im cheap lol)
 
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I’m Going to build a “Zeda Frankenstein” Motor that has a Stihl ms660 cylinder & piston.

The bolt holes on a ms660 are further out than what’s standard on a motorized bike. To fix this I’m filling in the old thread holes with low temp aluminum brazing rod and retapping new ones,
Not a good idea.
 
That low temp brazing rod is not good for anything structural at all. I would not trust it to hold a head stud, the threads will pull right out. I would consider it for things like body panels, gas tank stud leaks, case covers, and brackets for lightweight non-structural things like lights...not anything under stress.

You need to properly weld them shut, then drill and tap the new ones.
 
Interesting, maybe if someone contacts Hollanderen he could weld some up and weld the case halves too. Hes a swedish guy on youtube and works on 2 strokes. 2 stroke stuffing sent him a cylinder.
 
Aluminum bolts loctited in and ground flush is what other people are doing.

Go through this guys videos. He has a bunch of info that could be helpful.

 
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I saw on here somewhere guy made an adapter plate but then the cylinder would need milled down. that seems involved too
 
I think that's for stroker crank regular 40mm motor is fine I've heard. Btw has anyone noticed how much rob has invaded the forum lately ugh. He even leaked someone's address on the review thread and I reported it. The sad part is he has kids.
 
I think that's for stroker crank regular 40mm motor is fine I've heard. Btw has anyone noticed how much rob has invaded the forum lately ugh. He even leaked someone's address on the review thread and I reported it. The sad part is he has kids.
yea, thats sad, rob seems to think hes better than everyone, toxic attiude (small pepe sindrome).


also, i would use jb weld to fill the ports, those rods will just heat up like solder, when the engines warmed up.
(jb weld should hold up fine, 550F, just make sure its the OG, not the kwik, i learned my lesson lol)

and its a 56mm, you might need to mill it out so it clears the bottem end.


lets see it make some big power!
 
The ms 660 has a 40mm stroke but the crank circle dia is different and therfore the rod length is also different and that means the geometry is different effecting the time over area and piston speed between tdc and bdc.
 
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