Still looking for a round tank.

I would live to use an old Maytage twin cylinder...but they are low power- less than 1hp.
 
I love the idea. The deck fill does answer the filler problem. The mini-keg looks to have a plastic plug (bung) in the top? (or end if laying down). What is the arrangement? The second hole you mention must be for a spigot installed at the bottom?

I stopped the suds 26 years ago, so have missed out on a lot of the developments in the industry. )

There is a West Marine up the steet so getting the deck fill should be a snap.

Since you have worked out the big problem, what would you suggest for the outlet / drain cock?

Harbor Freight has a blind nut tool that works great for installing a nut in a metal plate. It works like a pop rivet, only pulls the threaded end up under the inside of the metal and mushrooms the barrel. I think it puts in half a dozen sizes up to 1/4". I have only used it to install some 1/4" nuts for CCTV mounts. There are a number of places on motorized bikes where it would be good to have a captive nut.

Jim

Yeah typically the second hole for the spigot is on the side of the keg towards the end opposite the bung hole. However these kegs are tapped and pressurized through the same hole, so that hole on the side isn't there.

I hadn't figured out what I was going to do for the petcock... Some sort of brass bushing probably. I just checked out that rivet tool from Harbor Freight. Looks cool, and yeah it does go up to 1/4" for threaded nuts. I wonder how liquid tight that would be though? I bet some tank sealer would be a good idea.
 
Motor bike Kegger

I did see the SS tanks offered, but at 4# and less than a gallon seemed a little of a over kill.

I liked the mini-keg tank so well I ordered two from the home brew shop linked above.

I have a catalog page on the deck fill units in the car so when I get by the marine store can pick up a couple.

Still haven't decided how to install the fuel outlet fitting. Most likely a mechanical tap. Nut and gasket inside and ditto outside to seal the tube?

Jim
 
from another website. A Maytag powered bike.
 

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from another website. A Maytag powered bike.


Great bike...but knowing Maytags, riding that would take a patient person.

However, there, folks, is the grandaddy of your 2 stroke bikes (Maytags being 2 stroke).
 
Cheap gas tank

Hi if you want a cheap cylinder tank, and are not willing to spend much, considcer this.

A big juice can, punch hole where you want petcock, drain out juice, drink juice, do not add vodka.

Now, wash thoroghly, and cut a larger hole in the side, 180 degrees off of the petcock punch.

Take a thinner can, or whatever, cut the top, and save and re-use the lid for gas cap, pop-rivit the piece, and then either braze or flow solder over that area.

Screw in bung (hardware store brass fitting) and solder it in.

You now have the worlds cheapest cylinder tank.

Mike
 
V8 Juice can to the rescue?

That is a fine idea. Very creative. Will whip one of those together. Not sure if the mini-keg one will be to large for the space behind the seat? The keg should be here later this week.

I doubt my brazing wt. the Ox-Acy torch would leave much of a tin can. Maybe try with a small tip and small diameter rod? I am used to much larger material and a lot of heat.)

I ordered some fiberglass reinforced plastic deck fill fittings from a Marine supply house in San Diego this morning. $7.88 each. Seams to be an ideal filler? Seal an inside chain retainer


Hi if you want a cheap cylinder tank, and are not willing to spend much, considcer this.

A big juice can, punch hole where you want petcock, drain out juice, drink juice, do not add vodka.

Now, wash thoroghly, and cut a larger hole in the side, 180 degrees off of the petcock punch.

Take a thinner can, or whatever, cut the top, and save and re-use the lid for gas cap, pop-rivit the piece, and then either braze or flow solder over that area.

Screw in bung (hardware store brass fitting) and solder it in.

You now have the worlds cheapest cylinder tank.

Mike
 
Too Much Heat?

Hi Jim, use Plumbers Solder, and Plumbing flux (it is basicly Silver Solder) operates at much lower temp, done with Propane bottle type torch.

The steel can will tolerate this easily. AND they are cheap (No Vodka) so if you did screw one up, you could just get some more juice.

Remember, that you want to "sweat" on the filler, then flow the lead ovcer it, just like Body-Work in the 40's and 50's

Mike
 
"SWEAT" on the filler?

Sweat on the filler is not a term I am familiar. I have soft soldered electronics (rosin flux) and water pipes (acid flux) most of my life but silver soldered everything in refrigeration, so never really used solder to fill a void like they did at weld lines in car bodies. The sheet metal workers in the shop used the big 5# copper irons in a gas heater when they solder sealed ducts, but that is the extent of my knowledge.

I would appreciate a little insite on the term and uses. Thanks, Jim


Hi Jim, use Plumbers Solder, and Plumbing flux (it is basicly Silver Solder) operates at much lower temp, done with Propane bottle type torch.

The steel can will tolerate this easily. AND they are cheap (No Vodka) so if you did screw one up, you could just get some more juice.

Remember, that you want to "sweat" on the filler, then flow the lead ovcer it, just like Body-Work in the 40's and 50's

Mike
 
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