Should be the other way around. Ignition occurs earlier at higher RPM and later at lower RPM, and it is suggested that it should occur later at very high RPM to allow the piston to start the down stroke before the moment of peak combustion pressure.An old guy that owns the mower shop down the road said they used to use a stepped bit and drill out the magnets hole in a conical shape.
Then he said they just used a compression fitting that was the right size and torqued it al down.
I went ahead and got the already 12 degree advanced one from them, on the way it say
If al it gives is top end, then i realy don't want it
out of the bearings.
Should be the other way around. Ignition occurs earlier higher RPM and later at lower RPM, and it is suggested that it should occur later atvery high RPM to allow the piston to start the down stroke before the moment of peak combustion pressure. Our stock CDIs just advance and never retard above the mid ram as it is suggested they ought to.
By retarding the ignition on the old engines we were reducing the vibration at high RPM and accidentally making it very eary to start the engine at a very low speed, but at the expense of having fewer degrees where the pressure can do work, until up to (~4k in my case) speed.
There's a limited number of degrees that the pressure can do work before the exhaust opens, so there's more torque from an engine that has peak combustion pressure occurring as early as possible and doesn't reach peak combustion pressure too late.
If ignition is far too advanced at the starting RPM, you'll be starting your engine by cranking against the force of the combustion, and it could backfire!
If it vibrates badly at any point in the RPM RANGE due to peak combustion pressure occurring too close to TDC when the piston can't move away, it will be beating the
It's a fine balance. And you probably should have put the money toward a better CDI.
We had another discussion about base timings, I think it was last year..
Search for: most retarded thread ever
Should be the other way around. Ignition occurs earlier at higher RPM and later at lower RPM, and it is suggested that it should occur later at very high RPM to allow the piston to start the down stroke before the moment of peak combustion pressure.
Our stock CDIs just advance and never retard above the mid RPM as it is suggested they ought to.
By retarding the ignition on the old engines we were reducing the vibration at high RPM and accidentally making it very eary to start the engine at a very low speed, but at the expense of having fewer degrees where the pressure can do work, until up to (~4k in my case) speed.
There's a limited number of degrees that the pressure can do work before the exhaust opens, so there's more torque from an engine that has peak combustion pressure occurring as early as possible and doesn't reach peak combustion pressure too late.
If ignition is far too advanced at the starting RPM, you'll be starting your engine by cranking against the force of the combustion, and it could backfire!
If it vibrates badly at any point in the RPM RANGE due to peak combustion pressure occurring too close to TDC when the piston can't move away, it will be beating the
It's a fine balance. And you probably should have put the money toward a better CDI.
We had another discussion about base timings, I think it was last year..
Search for: most retarded thread ever
Yeah get the Jaguar one. It's the most interesting one by far for the hobbyist, having now six(?) different timing options in one CDI. You're sure to like at least one of it's timings for general commuting and touring use.Can ya recomend/link to one of the better CDI's? I was thinking of the Jaguar one but i keep getting side tracked
The newer engine design (not what I have) was supposed to be already corrected so that you didn't have to do the base timing mod that I did. I think Street was saying to someone who was retarding the ignition newer version (already retarded compared to the old) engine, making it twice as retarded as mine, and more than is possible for me with an offset key.
You might have room to add second keyway to your crank shaft since it is so many degrees away from stock.That'll be the next step then. I guess i'll just use the magnet, if it gets here, for a paper weight
Nah, i'm gonna try it at least give it a shot and if it don't work, then yeah, chalked up to another silly idea
