Stock clutch pads

[Nickt919]

My pads looked exactly like those on a CDH engine I have. They worked well until I modified my engine.

I wedge a piece of wood between the gears when I take that screw off and put it back on.
I use a royobi drill set about 75% on the slip clutch. This works similar to a power impact except less forceful hammering. It hasn’t failed me yet getting it off.
One other thing… I shaped the drill flat blade screw tip on a grinder to fit that screw slot tight so it does not booger up the screw slot.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

My pads looked exactly like those on a CDH engine I have. They worked well until I modified my engine.

I wedge a piece of wood between the gears when I take that screw off and put it back on.
I use a royobi drill set about 75% on the slip clutch. This works similar to a power impact except less forceful hammering. It hasn’t failed me yet getting it off.
One other thing… I shaped the drill flat blade screw tip on a grinder to fit that screw slot tight so it does not booger up the screw slot.

Those are the type of pads that come with the Zeda 80...So far two years of running on them with next to no wear...Not even any real dust under the cover, just checked it yesterday along with lubing the gears again...lol...If and when they do wear down, Im thinking of using these, until then, I have zero clutch problems and next to zero wear on the pads.

iPage

 

[Chainlube]

An actual Impact Driver with a 1/2" slotted bit works fantastic. By impact driver, I mean the old school hammer driven type, not a power tool.
This little bit set has 2 hard to find bits for said drivers as well. a No 4 Phillips and the 1/2" slotted. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKB1IRS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

That's the kind I'm talking about.

 

[weefek]

Ahh I used to have one of those somewhere... haven't seen it in ~2 years. I'll take a look around tonight.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

That's the kind I'm talking about.

I knew that is what you meant. I knew it wasn't what he heard. Most people hear Impact Driver and think Impact Gun or Bit Driver.

 

[weefek]

Going to clean up the stock pads as much as possible. Ordering extra reds just in case they fail (who knows). Ended up using impact Makita on the small bevel, got it off. Seems like there was some kind of thread locker on it. The 'removal tool' worked for everything else.

Maybe wrong place for this but should I pack the case bearings with grease? Or just fill them with oil? Seems to me if I pack them with grease it will take time for the oil/gas to replace the grease if I do so.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Going to clean up the stock pads as much as possible. Ordering extra reds just in case they fail (who knows). Ended up using impact Makita on the small bevel, got it off. Seems like there was some kind of thread locker on it. The 'removal tool' worked for everything else.

Maybe wrong place for this but should I pack the case bearings with grease? Or just fill them with oil? Seems to me if I pack them with grease it will take time for the oil/gas to replace the grease if I do so.

Clutch bearings are not connected to the intake side, I just squirt some lube in the adjust hole from time to time for the clutch shaft, bearing are sealed. On engine side only the inside should be open. On clutch, if not sealed on the puck gear, a bit of moly lube in the bearings from time to time, just a little, so it won't leak all over and cause slipping. Only there to allow free spin when clutch disengage. If sealed, no worries. Just a pea size of red grease on gears. If engine bearings are not sealed on the outside, with a rubber extra seal, your engine will run lean and die quickly.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Going to clean up the stock pads as much as possible. Ordering extra reds just in case they fail (who knows). Ended up using impact Makita on the small bevel, got it off. Seems like there was some kind of thread locker on it. The 'removal tool' worked for everything else.

Maybe wrong place for this but should I pack the case bearings with grease? Or just fill them with oil? Seems to me if I pack them with grease it will take time for the oil/gas to replace the grease if I do so.

If you are talking the crank bearings I have a little trick I was taught by an old timer that used to do small engine rebuilds for a good 40 or so years. With 2 strokes he would mix some 2 stroke oil with a little bit of petroleum jelly (vasoline) until it had a consistency a bit thicker than honey. He would "pack" some into the crank and wrist pin bearings during assembly. Petroleum jelly melts at a bit over 100 degrees, so once the engine gets hot it melts off and boils away. Makes it a bit of a finicky engine at first start with all that extra oil, but it goes away quickly. I've done it with every 2 stroke I have ever rebuilt or built, including my Phantom 85. Works great.

 

[Karl Snarl]

If you are talking the crank bearings I have a little trick I was taught by an old timer that used to do small engine rebuilds for a good 40 or so years. With 2 strokes he would mix some 2 stroke oil with a little bit of petroleum jelly (vasoline) until it had a consistency a bit thicker than honey. He would "pack" some into the crank and wrist pin bearings during assembly. Petroleum jelly melts at a bit over 100 degrees, so once the engine gets hot it melts off and boils away. Makes it a bit of a finicky engine at first start with all that extra oil, but it goes away quickly. I've done it with every 2 stroke I have ever rebuilt or built, including my Phantom 85. Works great.

I just give a little dip in the oil ( 2t oil), and let 'em drip off. Then press them in. I do the same for gaskets. Dip and drip, but ain't got nothing to do with my mushroom stick.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

I just give a little dip in the oil ( 2t oil), and let 'em drip off. Then press them in. I do the same for gaskets. Dip and drip, but ain't got nothing to do with my mushroom stick.

Yeah, that also works just fine. The only reason I like to do the petroleum jelly "assembly lube" trick is because it has slightly better staying power for a motor that may sit for a bit before being run.