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Dockspa1
Guest
I think thats why I always like my BMWs, because of the low center gravity.
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DougC
Guest
Those scraper forks have way too much negative trail to be safe at very high speeds (that is--high speeds by non-motorized bicycle standards).
The spring has an adjustable nut on it so that the fork sag can be set low enough that the pedals scrape the ground when tilted--hence the name "scraper bike".
You can use the beehive cantilever-suspension forks, lots of people do that even for motorbikes--just don't use the deeply bowed ones.
,,,,,
And as I have seen it: most of the cruiser/lowrider/scraper bike parts are not built real well. They're intended for adolescents (not real heavy riders) and also aren't intended for any sort of hard or high-speed use.
~
The spring has an adjustable nut on it so that the fork sag can be set low enough that the pedals scrape the ground when tilted--hence the name "scraper bike".
You can use the beehive cantilever-suspension forks, lots of people do that even for motorbikes--just don't use the deeply bowed ones.
,,,,,
And as I have seen it: most of the cruiser/lowrider/scraper bike parts are not built real well. They're intended for adolescents (not real heavy riders) and also aren't intended for any sort of hard or high-speed use.
~
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Sianelle
Guest
Ooooo K Doug. I agree the negative trail thing is a bit weird. Turning the handlebars actually causes the steering head to lift so it's the weight of the bike that keeps it tracking straight. A lot of the parts for these lowriders that I've seen are pretty lightweight and not well made. I've already mentioned the chrome fork I purchased as a replacement being completely unbushed and lacking for a crossbrace between the fork legs. The guys who ran the business where I got my lowrider specify a much stronger spec in their frames and the fork is much more workmanlike, so I'll be staying with the original components and tossing the chrome fork into the scrap steel bin in the corner of my garage workshop.
This little bike in its flat track form is really low and I've got to watch where I leave it in the workshop or I end up tripping over it. I don't think it will ever be a serious riding bike and will most probably spend most of its time suspended from the rafters on display. It doesn't really owe me anything since it's being built from parts & etc I already have. In a way I suppose it's mechanical art and an excuse for me to shape metal, paint and pinstripe something.
This little bike in its flat track form is really low and I've got to watch where I leave it in the workshop or I end up tripping over it. I don't think it will ever be a serious riding bike and will most probably spend most of its time suspended from the rafters on display. It doesn't really owe me anything since it's being built from parts & etc I already have. In a way I suppose it's mechanical art and an excuse for me to shape metal, paint and pinstripe something.
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Dockspa1
Guest
Awesome Sianelle. You should start a little museum and put a contribution box in the entrance. I get 10% for being your manager. Hee Hee!
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Sianelle
Guest
This evening I seriously started assembly work on the flat tracker. Until now it's been a loose collection of parts finger bolted togther and I decided it was well time I made a proper job of it so at least the bicycle side of it is fully operational. It was at this stage that I really came to appreciate the quality that's gone into the design of the front forks. The main pivot assembly is way more robust than the El Cheapo Aztlan chrome fork. It has thrust washers and it's possible to adjust the endplay absolutely spot on. I used plenty of grease on the pivot sleeve and I'm strongly considering boring and tapping for a grease nipple to keep it all sweet.
When I purchased this lowrider from TLC Bicycles in Manukau City I must confess I was attracted by the overall gold paintwork/anodising and as it all came together and took proper shape again I found myself thinking; - 'Yeah, not too bad at all', - and I made up my mind to leave well alone and she can stay gold for now. I think I was very lucky to stumble upon the one specialist dealer in the North Island of NZ that specified how they wanted their lowriders to be. Everybody else just sells the Aztlan stuff and under all the flash and chrome the actual mechanical design is pretty dodgy and not very well thought out.
A change of wheels, - I liberated the original TLC 20 inch gold anodised 72 spoke wheels from where I'd been using them and I must say I do like to see them reunited with their proper frame again. A while ago I recovered a taper coil spring suspended exercycle seat with leather and I'd been using it on an old 1960s Raleigh. It's a really nice comfortable seat so I liberated it too and it looks very nice on my golden flat tracker.
A front brake is going to be necessary so I've purchased one of these.......
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7967/bandbrake2jz9.jpg
It's a band brake and to my way of thinking it should be just the thing for my bike. A rim brake just plain isn't going to work without additional metalwork and it would look downright untidy to boot. Discs are too hi-tech for me and again they'd need all kinds of clever brazing and metalwork to get them to fit.
The MTB straight handlebars I'm using came complete with nice rubber grips, a pair of brake levers and a Shimano 9 speed click type thumb lever in tasteful black. Amazing wot folk will throw away down at the rubbish tip.
I'm thinking that the gearchange thumb lever will make a super throttle control. I'll give it a go anyway Tomorrow I'm going to start properly mounting in the engine and the rear sprocket. Crikey, this is getting to be a pretty serious sort of project.......
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Sianelle
Guest
This is turning into a building log :-/ I hope the Mods won't mind.
After a day spent filing and cutting and turning things, - and then finally trying out my brand new MIG welder for the first time
I've got the Villiers engine in the frame!!! (Yaaaahooooo)
I might not actually use this particular engine, but I've got others of the same model and it will be the best one of around three engines that will finally get to live in this frame. I ended up having to move the engine back around an inch because on left lock the fork leg was coming a wee bit too close to the sparkplug. As it stood it could have been a great safety device; - get into a tank-slapper and the top of the sparkplug gets neatly snapped off and thereby stops the engine
No real problem with the backward shift though, I now have to put a funny bend in the RHS pedal arm to clear the Villiers engine's big brass flywheel, but I think I can live with that.
The band brake arrived today and a trial fit tells me that it's going to drop into place like it was meant to be there all along. Of course I've still got to make the adaptor to take the brake drum before it can do anything else except look pretty, but at least there is actually room for everything. I think I'll get another one of these so I can set up a handbrake on my electric assisted tricycle. The guy I got the brake from used to have a scooter business and he's clearing out his old stock, - so I might as well get in while the gettings good
After a day spent filing and cutting and turning things, - and then finally trying out my brand new MIG welder for the first time
I've got the Villiers engine in the frame!!! (Yaaaahooooo)I might not actually use this particular engine, but I've got others of the same model and it will be the best one of around three engines that will finally get to live in this frame. I ended up having to move the engine back around an inch because on left lock the fork leg was coming a wee bit too close to the sparkplug. As it stood it could have been a great safety device; - get into a tank-slapper and the top of the sparkplug gets neatly snapped off and thereby stops the engine
No real problem with the backward shift though, I now have to put a funny bend in the RHS pedal arm to clear the Villiers engine's big brass flywheel, but I think I can live with that.
The band brake arrived today and a trial fit tells me that it's going to drop into place like it was meant to be there all along. Of course I've still got to make the adaptor to take the brake drum before it can do anything else except look pretty, but at least there is actually room for everything. I think I'll get another one of these so I can set up a handbrake on my electric assisted tricycle. The guy I got the brake from used to have a scooter business and he's clearing out his old stock, - so I might as well get in while the gettings good
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Sianelle
Guest
Well that was interesting........ I've had this brand new 20 inch Sturmey Archer rear wheel with 36 spokes and a chrome steel rim for a while now. I got it NOS for $5.00 from the former owner of a bicycle shop. It's set up to take a standard single speed freewheel and wot I've done is thread the brake drum onto this wheel's hub.
Getting the front forks to take a wider rear hub wasn't funny and involved a lot of careful cold resetting to insure everything went on straight and true. So now the band brake is on the front and it works nicely. I've decided that I like the look of the 36 spoke wheel and it makes my flat tracker look more like a small motorcycle rather than something that's been overfed on spokes.
I've got a matching coaster rear wheel which I'll change over tomorrow and we should be finally getting somewhere with this project. A gas tank is the next big concern and I might just lay my hands on an old BSA C11 tank that I've heard about recently.
Getting the front forks to take a wider rear hub wasn't funny and involved a lot of careful cold resetting to insure everything went on straight and true. So now the band brake is on the front and it works nicely. I've decided that I like the look of the 36 spoke wheel and it makes my flat tracker look more like a small motorcycle rather than something that's been overfed on spokes.
I've got a matching coaster rear wheel which I'll change over tomorrow and we should be finally getting somewhere with this project. A gas tank is the next big concern and I might just lay my hands on an old BSA C11 tank that I've heard about recently.
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Dockspa1
Guest
Sounds like you are just going to town Sianelle. I'm curious about the installation of the band brakes you purchased. Do they come with the internal and the hub? Have you mig welded before you bought this new one? I have a very small one. It barely gets the job done. A BSA C11? What BSA bike did these come from. I was only familliar with a few BSA's and they all had big tanks.
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.
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Sianelle
Guest
BSA C11 from 1954 Doc, - the C11 was a 250cc single.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/4183/1954bsac11yt2.jpg
The tank I'm chasing has lost its chrome panels and badges and has some dints. I may not get it though because I think the vendor is asking too much for it. Trouble is before Christmas everybody is trying to sell anything handy to improve the finances which means all manner of old tat is being dragged out from under the house and being called either an antique or a collectable item.
A C11 tank isn't too large and I like the shape. I've been hoping to find an old Jap bike tank in the right shape, but so far only the impossibly ugly ones have been showing up
My welding skills are decidedly rusty and I think I'm going to have to do lots of practice on bits from my scrap pile before I'm entirely happy with the results. I own a gas welding set too and I must say I'm much more comfortable using gas rather than sparky things. Trouble is I can't afford to get gas bottles filled at the moment so the MIG is it (sigh).
The band brake is quite easy to set up as the inner drum is threaded to fit a standard freewheel hub. With a double sided hub it's possible to have a band brake on the rear wheel which is where they're often put on various utility type bicycles available from China & etc. For a front brake you've really got to adapt a rear wheel hub or else get into turning up your own hub or threaded adaptor which I had been tempted to try. My brake came with the inner brake drum and the outer band mounting complete with all the operating gubbins.
They're a bit of a poor man's drum brake really and there are better brakes around, but the thing I like is their vintage 'look'.
Some examples of band brakes available.......
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/204/bandbrake3po9.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6551/bandbrake5kl7.gif
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5580/bandbrake6ei7.gif
These folk seem to have them......
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/brakes.html
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/4183/1954bsac11yt2.jpg
The tank I'm chasing has lost its chrome panels and badges and has some dints. I may not get it though because I think the vendor is asking too much for it. Trouble is before Christmas everybody is trying to sell anything handy to improve the finances which means all manner of old tat is being dragged out from under the house and being called either an antique or a collectable item.
A C11 tank isn't too large and I like the shape. I've been hoping to find an old Jap bike tank in the right shape, but so far only the impossibly ugly ones have been showing up
My welding skills are decidedly rusty and I think I'm going to have to do lots of practice on bits from my scrap pile before I'm entirely happy with the results. I own a gas welding set too and I must say I'm much more comfortable using gas rather than sparky things. Trouble is I can't afford to get gas bottles filled at the moment so the MIG is it (sigh).
The band brake is quite easy to set up as the inner drum is threaded to fit a standard freewheel hub. With a double sided hub it's possible to have a band brake on the rear wheel which is where they're often put on various utility type bicycles available from China & etc. For a front brake you've really got to adapt a rear wheel hub or else get into turning up your own hub or threaded adaptor which I had been tempted to try. My brake came with the inner brake drum and the outer band mounting complete with all the operating gubbins.
They're a bit of a poor man's drum brake really and there are better brakes around, but the thing I like is their vintage 'look'.
Some examples of band brakes available.......
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/204/bandbrake3po9.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6551/bandbrake5kl7.gif
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5580/bandbrake6ei7.gif
These folk seem to have them......
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/brakes.html
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Dockspa1
Guest
Sianelle, you wrote, I think I'll get another one of these so I can set up a handbrake on my electric assisted tricycle.
At the site you listed above, which of the band brakes are you using on your tricycle? I know the threads are 15 or 16 MM. Close to 5/8ths ASM. I need to get another set on my wifes trike because all she has now are front pads.
Thanks again!
Doc
At the site you listed above, which of the band brakes are you using on your tricycle? I know the threads are 15 or 16 MM. Close to 5/8ths ASM. I need to get another set on my wifes trike because all she has now are front pads.
Thanks again!
Doc