Stretch Build

OK I have admired Augidog's stretch frame since I joined. I have been wanting a Surley Big Dummy for even longer. So now I will build one for me.

Today I cut into a perfectly good Diamond Back Apex full double butted Cro Moly frame. datz510 was kind enough to let me buy this off him for what he paid on Saturday $30 on Craigs List. The parts mostly will be replaced, but the frame is solid with a ding or 2 , and now 4 pretty serious cuts. Oh yes I am waiting now on a GEBE kit with a Tanaka 40 that should power it nicely.

I will try to show what I am doing as I do it. I hope to mount fairly low at say a 45 degree angle forward and make use of the space created between the wheel and the seat tube. The main piece to extend the frame is a tandem tube I have been sitting on for 10 years. I will braze the frame back together with pieces cut and mitered to fit.
 

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Lenny... as soon as I am feeling better, I have everything needed to build a jig for you. I have some 2x4" 1/4" wall steel tubing and a good assortment of small DOM tubing which would be used in plce of axles . The small DOM tubing would then be welded using spacers to the 2x4 tubing to make jig that would be completely rigid. I also have some larger DOM tubing that could be cut and used to locate the bottom bracket. Use a clamp of some sort to secure the frame at this point. At that point, it would be like augidog said.. you just fill in the gaps to make your frame.

We can talk about this idea next time we chat. I have everything to do this and It wouldnt cost a penny.

Also, it would be reuseable, as you can cut and reweld steel as needed for different projects.
 
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pabickwermert sent me the rear shock he pulled out of his bike and I just ordered a front suspension fork from the shop I worked for for years. They are one of the only places I know to get real obscure parts like a suspension fork for 1". This project is coming off quickly now that datz510 got me started. Sorry no more photos probably till next Monday.
 
FANTASTIC, way to go Lenny, i can't wait to see what you work out !!

since you posted the Big Dummy pic you are in on what i'm talking about using the extracycle extension on the full suspension mongoose blackcomb.

i thought of using one of the many "flat foot " bikes for the 68.5* head angle, but they are just too expensive for base stock when i can get the blackcomb for $300.

keep the pics rolling

steve
 
Ideas are good. This forum is built on ideas. Triangulation is good too. I am leaving that area open untill I decide where the motor goes. As low as possible without having heel clearance issues.

Anybody have a suspension fork for a 1" steering tube? After riding for a couple of hours I decided I really should have suspension stuff on this bike. I really love the way my other Diamond Back rides. It is my first bike with suspension anything and now I have about 1000 miles on it and don't know how I rode those other 99,000 miles without it.

i like the picture of the bike. i'm getting this engine and putting it on this bike. it comes with the transmission shown in the pictures. should be here friday. how did you manage such a small sprocket on the left side? i've been thinking about a frame mount, but because of the width of the engine (12 inches overall) been thinking about a rack mount. your method looks like a solution i could use. if you don't mind me pirating it from you. could you post some close ups of your rack and gearing? i'd appreciate it if you could.
 

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mods

possibly but right now i have to help that little engine uphill and the seat hieght helps me do that. if i keep it looking like a bike, i have less worry about police thinking i'm trying to get away with something. i'm not. my new engine is 47cc, 2cc under the legal limit in utah. i'm good.:cool:
 
On my present bike I use a Staton 18.75 to 1 gearbox and a 11 tooth cog comes off the gearbox. The reverse freewheel on the left side of the special hub from Staton is 16 tooth.

The seat forward is set up on purpose to put my weight over the pedals more. This is set up on purpose to give my pedaling more power. Also the balance of weight on the wheels is better this way. I have never felt comfortable or in good control of a bicycle at speed with cruiser bars. Actually the thread is about the black bike that I am modifying more than the racing bike I have setup already.
 
a wheel

Since I am using the GEBE that uses a clip on ring and was advised to use zip ties to strengthen the wheel I thought I would try a trick I have used in the past to strengthen my wheels. For any wheel builders here the spoke length is the same for this as for a standard build.I basically take the spoke to it's cross point and twist it around the spoke it crosses. The spoke changes direction and goes to the rim hole that the twist companion would have gone to. I have also done a double twist where the spoke ends up at the same rim hole it would have gone to normally. Either way the spoke is braced against the other spoke and makes for a much stiffer wheel. I do not remember seeing this on any other bikes but I did build my last bike for myself with a set of these wheels. I never broke a spoke or needed to true the wheels in 2500 miles of riding. I hope the trick works for the GEBE ring. The wheel is not finished yet and I will do that later and post a picture to compare. Also looked up my original build of Diamond Back with EHO35 Staton gearbox for revelstone
 

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