Stretch Build

OK I have admired Augidog's stretch frame since I joined. I have been wanting a Surley Big Dummy for even longer. So now I will build one for me.

Today I cut into a perfectly good Diamond Back Apex full double butted Cro Moly frame. datz510 was kind enough to let me buy this off him for what he paid on Saturday $30 on Craigs List. The parts mostly will be replaced, but the frame is solid with a ding or 2 , and now 4 pretty serious cuts. Oh yes I am waiting now on a GEBE kit with a Tanaka 40 that should power it nicely.

I will try to show what I am doing as I do it. I hope to mount fairly low at say a 45 degree angle forward and make use of the space created between the wheel and the seat tube. The main piece to extend the frame is a tandem tube I have been sitting on for 10 years. I will braze the frame back together with pieces cut and mitered to fit.
 

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Well I did not get the right size spokes yet for my wheel build. I do expect them soon. Tonight I got the UPS tracking number from GEBE so I better get this frame built. I had to work around the house this week so next week I may get my frame started to put it back together. I got a suspension fork in for it today. I have 3 rear suspension options. Still have not made firm drawings to post so next week will probably be the next progress posting and hopefully with mo photos.
 
Wild Wheel!!

I thought I would try a trick I have used in the past to strengthen my wheels. For any wheel builders here the spoke length is the same for this as for a standard build.I basically take the spoke to it's cross point and twist it around the spoke it crosses. The spoke changes direction and goes to the rim hole that the twist companion would have gone to. I have also done a double twist where the spoke ends up at the same rim hole it would have gone to normally. Either way the spoke is braced against the other spoke and makes for a much stiffer wheel. Diamond Back with EHO35 Staton gearbox for revelstone

Whoa!!
Is there a tutorial on this?!?!
 
I'll see if I can come up with some instructions that point in the right direction. It helps if you know how to build a wheel already and then just a simple change makes this wheel reinforcement. Old school was to tie with wire at the cross and solder. I never did this and the zip tie thing seems too flimsy. This is just the wire spoke crossing against itself and twisting back to the hole that would have been filled with the spoke it twists around. The spoke pairs trade positions at the rim. I will need to draw and take photos and see what I can come up with.
 
SimpleSimon is that your wheel? That is pretty cool, and certainly artistic. The tutorial saves me doing one. I just use one half twist between the hub and rim which gives some stiffness at the cross point, like this photo. http://www.instructables.com/id/EESYLVMSR0EP286327/ The possibility of a broken spoke makes less better with the lacing patterns. It is functional and stylish all in one, I will not know if it works with the GEBE ring until next week when I get my kit.
 
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No, not my wheel, at all. It just seemed apropo to your question, and I recalled seeing it at Instructables. Check out the bike section there sometime - there are some amazing ideas.

Cross lacing spokes can do some interesting things, but I think that guy pushed it a bit far. I've been looking at some wheels a guy here in town made - he bought some military surplus reinforced aircraft windshields on spec - then got a wild hair and turned tapered solid disc wheels and fitted motorcycle hubs and rims. The wheels are transparent! When clean, from 10 feet away they look like a hub floating centered in the rim - a very cool look.

I'll try to get a pic or two to post.
 
That would solve the GEBE ring mount spoke problem some are having. No spokes to mount to and the disc would be a sure mount surface. Clear wheels would be spooky.
 
They are spooky, lenny. I saw the motorcycle coming out of a Wal Mart recently, and just stood, staring at it. Then I walked over, and walked around it, looking closely (without touching the motorcycle). While I was doing so, the guy who owned it came out. We talked, and I asked him about the wheels - he told me how he'd made them. Said the worst part was polishing the surfaces back to transparency after turning the tapered disks. He used marine bronze socket headed bolts between the spoke flanges on the hub to lock the disc down to it, then marine bronze studs in the outer rim where the spokes should be to lock the tire rim to the disc - there's actually a 1/2 inch clear space between the outer circumference of the disc, and the inner spoke flange of the rim, bridged by those bronze studs. It's an incredible wheel.
 
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