Brakes Sturmey Archer Bicycle Dyno Drum Brake.

[azbill]

here's the X-FD on a Haro
the working parts are on opposite side...sorry
but, you can see that the tubes are so big, i had to use a hose clamp for the brake arm

 

[fetor56]

What exactally do you want to see of the drum brake ? My trike runs SA drums. If you really want a good look, you are welcome to come and have a look , I am in Blakeview

I wanted a pic to see what side of the bike that brake arm bracket fits...i've laced my wheel & setup the hub so that when your sitting on the bike the bracket connects to the left hand fork.
PS...thanks anyway Pete...Bill answered my question.

 

[Pete]

After looking at azbill's pic, my backplates are very different and have been changed to be more trike friendly. I also have left and right handed back plates so that probably isn't of much use to you.


This is the only pic I have handy

 

[vyzhion]

I was thinking about buying one of those SA dyno/brake hubs. I have a question. The bike I was planning on using this on has a front disc brake already. Is the SA drum brake better than a disc setup? There is a shimano dyno hub that is fitted for a disc rotor but it costs quite a bit more and I wonder what would be a better choice. What say you about the SA hub, folks?

 

[fetor56]

I was thinking about buying one of those SA dyno/brake hubs. I have a question. The bike I was planning on using this on has a front disc brake already. Is the SA drum brake better than a disc setup? There is a shimano dyno hub that is fitted for a disc rotor but it costs quite a bit more and I wonder what would be a better choice. What say you about the SA hub, folks?

Depends on what u want...a proper hydraulic disk brake is very hard to beat, but having said that a disk by itself can't generate electricity.
I'm happy with user feedback & the feedback with these S/A dyno drum brakes is that their excellent & well worth the cost....transferrable from bike to bike to.

 

[loquin]

I just got mine installed, and took it around the block a few times (That pesky knee surgery recovery does limit you for a while!). It works very nicely. The bearings are smooooth, and the brake works very well.

Note that drum style brakes do not work as well in the mountains as do disc brakes. They can overheat on long downhill runs. But, in flat or rolling areas, they are effective. Plus, the brakes are better protected than disk brakes, and they will continue to work if the wheel got bent. And, since they're internal, they will work in wet/icy conditions

You would have to have a catastrophic failure in the front wheel (taco'ed wheel) to not be able to use the brake, and THAT only because the wheel can't spin any longer...

I haven't got the generator hooked up yet, (it's a ongoing project.)

One point - the generator DOES come with one connector - I just overlooked it earlier...

 

[loquin]

Retaining clip

Like you, I was installing the new hub/wheel on a bike with oversized fork tubes, and the brake arm retaining clip just wouldn't fit.

So, I modified a 1 inch hose clamp to work.

Using metal thicker than a tin can, cut a strip from it. The strip should be a bit wider than the band of the hose clamp. The metal should be JUST thin enough to slip through the diagonal screw slots on the band of the hose clamp.

The length of the strip should be based on the original brake arm clip, plus the tab lengths of about 1/2 to 5/8 inch in length.

Cut the corners out of the strip to form the tabs, which just slip through the screw slots of the band of the clamp. I used a metal nibbler for this. Careful work with tin snips should work, also.

Next, carefully make the long bends on the strip. You're rolling the edge over to get rid of the long sharp edge, and to strengthen the strip. Now, mark the strip for the two 75° bends, and make them.

Finally, slip the tabs through the screw slots on the hose clamp (you'll first need to make the tabs parallel by bending them the extra 15°,) and bend them out to lock the strip in place. When you tighten the clamp, it should lock the tabs in place. To be sure, you could mix up a tiny amount of epoxy, and place a drop between each tab and band before tightening the clamp...

Ref the sketch, below.

Edit: I was braking this morning, and hit a pothole. The tin-can retaining strip broke, and the hub twisted around, breaking the brake cable. Moral - Do NOT use the tin-can approach... If you have some thicker sheet metal, go that route. Or, place a spacer between the brake arm and the tube, and clamp the tube into place.

 

[fetor56]

@loquin.
Thanks man....yours is a workable idea & i'll try it if i'm unhappy with my idea....excellent reference of yours though for future specialized clamps.
I've laced my wheel(first time ever,took me 10hrs) but since i'm not confident in trueing i've taken it to a wheel expert.It's got 13G S/S Alpine 3 spokes with a Sun RhynoLite XL rim.
My idea is a simple clamp where u put the end of the arm though where it screws-up....when i get the wheel back i'll know further.

PS...with a Maxxis Hookworm 26 X 2.5 tyre.

 

[loquin]

BTW - you can't tell the generator is even there when peddling if you're not using the power.

 

[loquin]

And, here's a close-up of the clip, installed...