Substitute for 415 chain- #41

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I'm using kmc k710 kool chain from my output sprocket to jackshaft input and from jackshaft output to chainring, and kmc z610 from the chainring to my nexus 3 speed hub. 0 issues with my chains.
I should be fine then. Shimano chain should be better quality. Thanks! I need it for jackshaft as well.
 
You'll need to have narrow sprockets to run narrow chain of course. I originally narrowed my engine sprocket to 0.120" to fit the 0.125" rollers on the 1/8" bmx chain, but then I had to do it again to fit the 11/128" chain, and made the engine sprocket teeth 2mm with 1.8mm tips. My rear sprockets were already suitable for the narrow chain.

Well, I have stock Shimano 6 speed casette, shimano derailler, and just bought a 28 teeth sprocket for this chain instead of the outer wide 44 tooth one. I need it kinda more for hill climbing in the area I live at. GreasyChris helped me calculate I'd have about 4800 RPM's when going 50km/h in top gear, and in first, I could go 30km/h at about 7500 RPM.
 
Well, I have stock Shimano 6 speed casette, shimano derailler, and just bought a 28 teeth sprocket for this chain instead of the outer wide 44 tooth one. I need it kinda more for hill climbing in the area I live at. GreasyChris helped me calculate I'd have about 4800 RPM's when going 50km/h in top gear, and in first, I could go 30km/h at about 7500 RPM.
Oh sorry this is for the left hand side chain on a derailleured shifter! You have a six speed freewheel cluster so you need to use the six speed chain. Just check the front sprocket that came with the Chinese jackshaft kit is the correct thickness.
The thread was originally discussing alternatives to the #415 chain on the kit, to use on the right hand side.
 
The #41 chain is used for tractor implements and garage doors. It is meant for the extremely high load in these applications. It is actually quite unnecessary to use such a heavy chain on a bicycle with a tiny engine where the chain moves fast with very light load.
The #415 chain that comes in the kit, like the nuts and bolts, is made from terribly low quality metal and so I wouldn't doubt it can literally stretch (though I never tried it). Any high quality chain will not literally stretch on a MB. You could use the thinnest of bicycle chains and it would be easily strong enough in tension to not stretch or snap from the load. The only risk is it could be easier to twist the lighter chain if things malfunction (which is your responsibility) and the damaged chain would be weakened.
I think you mean the #40 chain, which is massive (and I agree pointless for a motorized bike). #41 chain is smaller and around 30% lighter per foot than the popular 415H while usually having a higher tensile strength. . Same pitch and roller diameter but slightly wider. IMO its the best for a motorized bike...no clue why its not more popular since its cheaper, stronger, AND lighter.
89235
 
I think you mean the #40 chain, which is massive (and I agree pointless for a motorized bike). #41 chain is smaller and around 30% lighter per foot than the popular 415H while usually having a higher tensile strength. . Same pitch and roller diameter but slightly wider. IMO its the best for a motorized bike...no clue why its not more popular since its cheaper, stronger, AND lighter.
View attachment 89235
If your sprockets can accept #410 chain, then kmc k710 kool chain works great and has far less rotational mass than #415 or #41.
41MwvJGSqvL.jpg
 
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I think you mean the #40 chain, which is massive (and I agree pointless for a motorized bike). #41 chain is smaller and around 30% lighter per foot than the popular 415H while usually having a higher tensile strength. . Same pitch and roller diameter but slightly wider. IMO its the best for a motorized bike...no clue why its not more popular since its cheaper, stronger, AND lighter.
View attachment 89235
Maybe I did but it wasn't my point. #41 is sold by the foot from somewhere called Tractor Supply so idk... Easy mistake and same difference really!
On a 0.066L bicycle engine, snapped or prematurely elongated chains are malfunctioning, damaged or poorly constructed from :poop: metal; not too light or too thin for the load. Even 9 speed chain is strong enough so it makes no difference what chain size/# has the greater tensile strength.
The KMC 1/8" BMX chains are definitely overkill too as far as tensile strength is concerned but it's probably the practical choice for most. It fits more sprockets than 3/32" chain and mid price KMC chains use decent quality metal so should last longer (than a cheaper-by-the-foot chain) before it elongates from wear between the pins and inner link bushes. Longer lasting chains leads to longer lasting sprockets leads to longer lasting chains leads to...
 
Oh sorry this is for the left hand side chain on a derailleured shifter! You have a six speed freewheel cluster so you need to use the six speed chain. Just check the front sprocket that came with the Chinese jackshaft kit is the correct thickness.
The thread was originally discussing alternatives to the #415 chain on the kit, to use on the right hand side.
Yes, I had to replace the sprocket at the front as well for a 28 tooth one with the correct width.
 
hey i had the same problem but i just grinded the teeth thinner with a flap disk
 
If your sprockets can accept #410 chain, then kmc k710 kool chain works great and has far less rotational mass than #415 or #41.
41MwvJGSqvL.jpg

Is the difference in mass noticeable at all during acceleration?

EDIT: NVM I see your using it for a jackshaft
 
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Is the difference in mass noticeable at all during acceleration?

EDIT: NVM I see your using it for a jackshaft
If I ever go back to single speed, it will be the only chain I use. My jackshaft puts so much more torque on the chain than a left side single speed setup ever would. I estimate (using maths and taking in losses) around 46 lb/ft on the chain from the jackshaft output to the chainring on my bike. It's my first chain to break bearings instead of stretching when it derails. Try it.
 
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