Super wide range torque pipe from Jaguar is a technological breakthrough

yea id say yours is covered in oil and grease. simply adjusting it still leaves you w a wet clutch but not the good kind.
your going to glaze the hardware in the first 10 minutes like that.

get in there and brake clean spray/ sand it w something harder than alum oxide sandpaper/ u need emery etc but i think i smell trouble. im new here however so maybe its fine after adjustment and the hydrocarbons are removed...sounds like a wet clutch.....

No oil and grease on my pads at all. It's just a matter of how they tightened the mechanism at the factory when they put it together. Even when my pads were clean and de-glazed, it would never hold the new power. After I tightened it up, then it didnt slip at all anymore and it handled the gnarly way out power going through the clutch system. Absolutely no slipping while taking off like a rocket or going up very very steep hills. Even with totally glazed pads it holds fine. That's the difference a tightened mechanism makes. So I don't really understand what glazed means anymore, it doesn't make a difference I think. I have no oil and grease in the pads compartment. There is barely any grease residue in those gear teeth. It's all clean in there.
So now I have to painstakingly take it apart to tighten it ever so slightly back up a tiny bit at a time. We are still looking at using a tiny old hydraulic disc brake caliper cylinder and piston and tig welding it into a clutch cover and using some cobalt nickel steel parts that are heat treated and quenched/tempered. Well if it doesn't hold well enough and the parts start wearing out fast again. Then I'll have to invent some things.
 
im wondering how an arrow 9.5 hp and yours have the same clutch. your telling me that yours is the problem clutch?

The clutch on all these Chinese engines are the same. Just the degree of adjustment may vary when they come from the factory. The fact that Arrow's bikes engines and that Jaguar's bikes engines can handle the power without slipping and are not overtightened is evidence to prove that the clutches on these engines can be properly adjusted so as to hold the power without slipping, yet be not so tight so as to have the parts wear out every few days of riding. I hope to get mine properly adjusted soon.
 
the best russian videos ive seen... guy on scooter at lights. falling asleep. guy in car behind him honks. honks again. guy on scooter wakes up. stands up, gets AXE off scooter and approaches car that is very quickly reversing and finding an alternate route :giggle:

and the horse crossing on a zebra pedestrian crossing. looks like its in suburbia. just a horse, going for a walk. so funny.

the others...just scary :) ice, vodka and 10tonne trucks. nasty.

dos vidanya :)

the clutch on a HT is probably the best bit of design on them.

if they slip, i remove half the friction pads. double the pressure on each pad. just like grinding. you need a lot of pressure to get lots of "teeth" to penetrate. reduce the number of teeth (coarser grit) and the presure required to "bite" is reduced.

otherwise you tend to slip, glaze, and once things have glazed/polished, they get super slippery...

the sandpaper on the plates does work.

so does drilling 5mm holes all over.


this has nothing to do with exhaust pipes, does it? :giggle:
 
the best russian videos ive seen... guy on scooter at lights. falling asleep. guy in car behind him honks. honks again. guy on scooter wakes up. stands up, gets AXE off scooter and approaches car that is very quickly reversing and finding an alternate route :giggle:

and the horse crossing on a zebra pedestrian crossing. looks like its in suburbia. just a horse, going for a walk. so funny.

the others...just scary :) ice, vodka and 10tonne trucks. nasty.

dos vidanya :)

the clutch on a HT is probably the best bit of design on them.

if they slip, i remove half the friction pads. double the pressure on each pad. just like grinding. you need a lot of pressure to get lots of "teeth" to penetrate. reduce the number of teeth (coarser grit) and the presure required to "bite" is reduced.

otherwise you tend to slip, glaze, and once things have glazed/polished, they get super slippery...

the sandpaper on the plates does work.

so does drilling 5mm holes all over.


this has nothing to do with exhaust pipes, does it? :giggle:


Exhaust pipes? Sure it does if it's a super expansion chamber makes the bike rip balls! ;-) The thing went nuts when I put the pipe on and it gives a boost right away. Now the weather has been cooler and there's a high pressure system. All that oxygen has it running like a bat out of hell. I can't wait till it's real cold, even my stock engine had noticeably more power then. So that's why the clutch would nt hold. Before I put the super pipe on, it would hold usually but then from time to time the clutch would slip. To remedy the problem I would use fine grit paper on the pads, but not on the metal!!! I would use a very wide angle and dull center punch to open those divets in the disc back up. I would then losen the clutch arm but tighten the daisy nut up. That would make it possible to tighten the clutch properly over time. This was all good when the motor was stock and without having a full range expansion pipe. Something the two stroke world still is unaware of. Jaguar's pipe is really such a break through. It's just that now so many people are going over to four stroke and all, otherwise it would have probably been discovered by some big producers all ready and he would have a big deal with them Now back to the clutch, that can no longer hold the new wanton rip roaring power. Well, I found out that there is the little hole in the case under the clutch cable support that unscrews from the case. You stick the small screw driver in or allen wrench at an angle towards the pads direction and hook a slot and then push the bike backwards with clutch engaged so that the small sprocket turns a bit. Not too much, start with half a turn. Then add another half if it's not enough. It is neccesary to do this if you make your engine more powerful. I got mine adjusted to perfect now. Almost never slips and the clutch system is alive and well now. But now that I got it tightened just right, then glazed pads don't matter anymore. It holds anyway. You can even let the clutch out slowly while gassing it alot if you are going really slow, as if it were a real motor bike clutch. Glazed? Who cares, it holds anything now.

Yeah, they film some pretty wild stuff over here))) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAVqLpSxllI
 
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A good top speed. Have you done anything to the cranshaft? Balanced for higher rpms? Conrod bearings? How many teeth on your rear sprocket? It's accelerating like mine did before I put the Jaguar pipe on.



Crankshaft, I have not had to do anything about it, was very good "balance" very little vibration. All bearings are replaced with SKF needle roller bearing is exchanged for http://www.twostroke.se/product.asp?product=12930 engine spins about 9.5 k But still can not see what would be so "technological breakthrough" with that pipe? Currently I use the 35 teeth on the rear sprocket








http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=17995
 
Crankshaft, I have not had to do anything about it, was very good "balance" very little vibration. All bearings are replaced with SKF needle roller bearing is exchanged for http://www.twostroke.se/product.asp?product=12930 engine spins about 9.5 k But still can not see what would be so "technological breakthrough" with that pipe? Currently I use the 35 teeth on the rear sprocket








http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=17995


Interesting videos you linked. The first one shows it going not at 9500 rpm's. Mine goes up to top speed alot faster and I have the 35 toother on in my videos too. Mine is on the pipe the entire time at speeds of over 5 mph - like it's supercharged from start. Fast acceleration from the low speed range. I don't think I get more than 7500 rpm's at max though. I wonder how you do. The second video of your's shows a different kind of head on it. Now that's an important solution because poor head design and detonation caused by it rob alot of power. Is that a stock carb I see? You should probably get that Jaguar ignition kit and even change the lower end conrod needle bearings too. I know, it's a pain in the arse to get it unpressed, repressed and then realigned properly.
 
technological breakthru seems a strech to you aswell? thats because its nothing new but a job well done. he using two baffle angles so as it tops out at 7500 rpm. the idea is not new or any kind of invention. he did a great job of measurng the return waves and building to suite the engine. must be atleast 6 months of work writen down in detail. if my dyno guy tuned a two stage anything and called himself an inventor he would be in some kind of trouble.
jaguar has made some music but there are pipe calculators building in the very same manner. 6 months of work thou.
the pipe was made from the ground up and is perfect unless high rpm is needed.

I'm not aware that Jaguar called himself an inventor. This is something that has not been made or used before though as I am aware of. It amazes me and impresses every motorhead I've shown it to. The power range is huge. And if you have any kind of gearing, it's much better than noisy high rpm's that kill a motor fast. After all, we are going to have to have some kind of moto gear-hub or other gearing to drive these satisfactorily. I highly doubt that more than 9000 rpm's can be gotten out of these engines. And if it is, then the low range power will suck. You have to choose something.
 
I would like to add, that it is possible to go up to 9000 rpm's with these pipes. I just have the stinger with a narrow diameter now that limits rpm's to about 7500. I ran it without any stinger at all and the low and middle range was great too. I could just use a 16 mm diameter stinger instead of the 10 mm stinger I'm using. I won't lose signifigant low end and it will not be limited to lower rpm's. I think it's my crankshaft that's limiting rpm's now. Maybe I will need to bore out the carb, but then I could lose low end.
 
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