Switchblade build or fools errand?

If you are going with 12g spokes+, I suggest using rims with eyelets to actually be able to bring those thicker spokes to proper tension without yanking the spoke heads out of the rim.
Edit: with spoke gauge sizes, my + means a lower number, which translates to thicker spokes. 11 gauge is thicker than 12 gauge, and requires higher tension to stretch the spokes right. 10 gauge+ is getting into dirt bike/motorcycle territory, and their rims have eyelets aimed properly for the spoke pattern to be used. Bicycle rims don't have that angled eyelet, so our spokes bend at the point they enter the rim.
 
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And here you go- jr wheel builders unite. The spokes are 13g and allegedly stainless- electroplated rustproof and glossy- and carbon steel, strong and anti rust!! 🙄 thats China for ya. Anyway- they seem fine- and heavier than a 14g. And I actually got the length correct 👍🏻
 

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A little progress this weekend. Here is the fleet. One stock, one stripped and running, and the third I put on a diet. The slender one will go in the final product while the stunt double in the middle will be the mock up flunky. I was hoping to polish the engine but it’s proving to be a time consuming PITA.
Oh- where do you get the non fin flywheel? I am considering a backyard mill job and cutting them all off.
 

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A little progress this weekend. Here is the fleet. One stock, one stripped and running, and the third I put on a diet. The slender one will go in the final product while the stunt double in the middle will be the mock up flunky. I was hoping to polish the engine but it’s proving to be a time consuming PITA.
Oh- where do you get the non fin flywheel? I am considering a backyard mill job and cutting them all off.
i have a ghetto method of removing the fins,
take the flywheel off, put in a vice, cut all the fins off,
then reattach it to the engine.
start the engine and let it run, then take your angle grinder, add a sanding disc. then sand it until it stops vibrating, (be sure to rev it up to check if it stays still) then it should be good to go! (check for cracks after, and be careful!)
 
i have a ghetto method of removing the fins,
take the flywheel off, put in a vice, cut all the fins off,
then reattach it to the engine.
start the engine and let it run, then take your angle grinder, add a sanding disc. then sand it until it stops vibrating, (be sure to rev it up to check if it stays still) then it should be good to go! (check for cracks after, and be careful!)

Yep, ghetto... you took off flywheel...ghetto here too..I left it on ! Lol and hit each fin with a hammer took a minute. Then took a angle grinder grind em down almost flush..then I started engine and held a file on the flywheel when you get down close to what you want paint front black. Then get. A fine file and it will remove paint till even.....bam! It looks great black with the little high spots silver..sorry no pic.
 

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Ghetto or no, I’m glad to see your success- also looks like the inner non fins (like what the pull starter engages?) are not solid so there will be small voids (maybe I’ll get a pic later) no biggie. I’ll need a rope wrapping cup yanker thing as well
 
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