I believe I need to commit to a couple parts- if I’m going to get all the drivetrain parts lined up I need to put hands on them.
I’m thinking about this sprocket and adaptor
I got a little progress today. Hacked up some 3/16 plate- formerly a dvd stand base. Also found a guy to weld, awesome. I have a few packages in route that I believe will resolve the drivetrain. Stay tuned.
Oh yea!, feast you eyes brothers. Christmas comes early to the office. I do believe this is going to work. Worst case I will need to raise the jackshaft a bit to clear the engine base. No biggie.
In other news- there is the strangest astronomical phenomenon occurring today. Something I think I may have read about in grade school but didn’t believe it was real. As close as I can tell there is water mixing with the air?!? It almost looks, and feels, as if it is descending from some higher elevation. And there is water all over the ground!! What the heck is this?
Suppose to snow below 3,000' Here in SOCAL
I was riding my motorcycle up at MT. Palomar last Sunday and there was snow at 5,000'
PsychDoc - I see the motor mount is is taking shape Nice.
Nice progress on the build!!!
In other news: I only got snow falling for an hour... within minutes of it starting to stick... it started raining again . I can get to snow in a 20 minute ride on my bike, but I wanted snow where I'm at!!!
Back to the topic: Running chain tensioners on the top run of a chain is a bad idea, power is transmitted through the top run of the chain, and tensioners on that run will want to run wild. It's best to have the top run of the chain from sprocket to sprocket, with the bottom run picking up any slack with a tensioner, if needed. I know it's the human powered pedal side, but it's still a bad idea. When you want to pedal to help the engine, there is a huge force acting on those points tensioning the chain, causing things to want to bend (jackshafts have that same twisting issue as well, as my wallet has noticed). It's best to use the bottom run to tension the chain, that run isn't powered exactly, it's just rolling through to eventually feed power when it hits the top run of the chain.
Thanks again for the encouragement.
Let’s talk sprockets and and tension. I value y’alls feedback,
I will have 5 “sprockets” the rear hub and main front drive are a mostly fixed. Two of the ‘middle’ sprockets are only slight redirection- these will see little tension (I )
The big problem is with the second position- this is (proposed) a hard turn, like 90* I will get the heaviest bearing I can find for that position. And it will be mounted as solid as possible.
I plan to pedal as little as possible- but using the coaster break.
I can see no other reasonable route for the top run.