switching from 2 stroke to 4, need HELP

artmaker

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So, my two stroke is old, and died after I spilled making a too sharp turn.
I want to upgrade. Bought a 4 stroke off thatsdax.com The TITAN MAGNUM 4
STROKE ENGINE KIT.

Now I am NOT a mechanic. I'm not totally inept, but not a mechanic either.
I DID ask this guy to be sure to include instructions. I also asked if I need to buy a tool to take the chain apart, and put on the new one. Or if that's really needed. Seems some parts don't need replacing. That rear drive gear for example. Why replace it when the old one seems to be the same size and is in good shape? The chain does show signs of wear, and as long as a new one came with the kit, may as well.

But I got nothing. NO replies, NO instructions of any kind. Just a box of parts. (one of which has quite a bit of surface rust, why a "new" engine would have any is beyond me.)

I'm going to go ahead and start taking parts off my bike. What I can at least. I need to know first about the drive chain. Does that need to be cut to be removed? What tool do I need to find to replace that master link?

Then if anyone has a manual of any kind, be it a good video or pdf or something, please post it. I'm not even sure where to begin.
Even a good post saying do this… then… then… would be most helpful.
 
yes, there are many video guides online. i like the one from BikeBerry. what is the transmission type? 4G, 5G, 7G? actually, if you have a ace hardware by you you can just go into the store and the service dept and ask if they can cut the chain for you. of course, buy something to show your appreciation haha. you can put on and remove the master link with small pliers and a small minus screwdriver to push the pin out.




houston motorized also has one but it is long.

 
Oh funny, that first video you posted, I've actually watched a few times now. Already I have a problem. Looks like the first step (My rear gear is fine so skip that part.) I need to replace the pedal crank.
A new one was SUPPOSE to come with my kit but there is none. I wrote to dax, we'll see. Meanwhile, I have no clue what kind of transmission I have or how to put it on.
I watched this video… Only mine doesn't look like either. Here's a photo of mine.
(Oh seriously? This forum doesn't upload images off my computer??????? Grrrrr.) here. http://artmakersworlds.com/testing/Bike/BikeTransmission.JPG
 
you dont need the pedal crank entirely. i dont use it and am able to pedal if i shift forward a bit or use the edge of the pedal. what i am saying is that you should be able to keep going with the build and get it later if u want the wide pedal cranks.

not sure looks like 4G but maybe a rip off. it is simple enough.
- put in the clutch (the thing with 3 arms and springs). use a screwdriver to help tighten the center bolt. there is a depression in the upper right where u can jam the screw driver to keep the clutch from rotating when u tighten
- there are 4 holes on the transmission with the smaller wheel. you use that to bolt into the engine but be careful to NOT over torque it. they easily strip. hand tighten (no arm leverage)
- put the belt on
- put on chain and ur ready to go

=D
 
The forum does alow uploading from a desktop, when writing a reply under the box where you write it says upload photos & files, click that and then choose file, pick from the directory where you keep the pictures.

The pedal crank issue... Well perhaps I have a novel idea that works well for a motorized bike since you don't have to rely on the pedals as much in terms of strength. I bought this set from Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cycling-Bell-Sports-7025229-Steel-Bike-Pedals-Istilo237559/374472007 , it's just the pedals but the bearing is located inside the pedal, and it uses these adapters to fit them to either a half inch or a 9/16 thread on the cranks.

When I was doing some maintenance and trying to help a friend he pointed out my threads were almost entirely stripped on my crank. Well instead of replacing my crank I used the design to my advantage, see drawing #1
Note050517_1.jpg

The threads in the pedal that normally accepted the adapter were matched up to an appropriate bolt, and then I put a washer between the pedal and crank as a spacer (not depicted) and tightened it down and used thread lock, I also put a small bushing between the bolt and the inner part of the threads on the crank to just to keep it centered and prevent jiggling.

Now if you wanted to bring the pedals out a couple inches, use a longer bolt, and a few nuts between the crank and pedal, and there you go, since you aren't pedaling the bike nearly as much the strength of the bolt isn't as important.

Now the only catch is that it was my right side pedal that was stripping my crank, and getting a standard right handed thread bolt was easy, I don't think the left hand threads for the left pedal would have been nearly as easy to obtain, and so doing this to both sides may require some creative thinking or digging around to find that specific thread size in a left hand thread on a bolt long enough. Might be viable to weld the adapter bits to a length of threaded rod or weld a standard right hand thread nut to the end of it and then use red loctite to keep anything you attach to it firmly in place.

Course I don't know the cost of a wide crank for your sized bike, and it may be cheaper to buy them over the pedals and other bits, but at least it's an option that some people might see as benefitial.
 
Ok, next time I need to upload a photo I'll look again.

I got off the phone with the guy from Dax. Seems my kit was suppose to come with a new pedal crank and it didn't. It's also missing a bolt for the mounting bracket he sent. So both are coming.
I also went ahead and ordered a chain tool off ebay. Probably a good idea to have one anyway. Easier than hacking out pins.
Guess I'll just wait for those things to show up.
 
show us chain tool. there are bicycle chain tools and then the one we need... hacking out pins is fun haHAA
Yea I've busted at least 2 tools just attempting to use it on a too big chain. If the listing says it's just for a bicycle but nothing specifically more then it's probably just meant for a standard bicycle chain, using it on the #410 or #415 will probably damage it (the tool.) they make breakers for things like tractor and motorcycle chains, get one made for heavy chain beyond that of a bicycle, and I find that some chain breakers that handle big stuff can also do a bike chain but not always, since it depends on the size of the pin they use as a pusher.
 
Well great. Here's the listing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261742497877?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Now… I swear, I am deeply regretting buying this motor from Dax. We talked on the phone, he realized he forgot to ship not only my wide pedal crank but one of the mounting bracket bolts. (THAT I could get anywhere, but as long as he's shipping the crank, may as well wait.)

He did try to walk me through a few questions I had but I get the distinct impression he thinks I'm a moron. Yea well HOW ABOUT INCLUDING SOME INSTRUCTIONS for a multi HUNDRED dollar item huh?

His mounting bracket is unlike anything I've seen in videos. He promised he'd take a picture of one and email it to me. HOURS ago.
Anyone out there have a dax 4 stroke? Post a picture of his bracket if you do.
He tried to explain it goes on the post the seat goes into. I cannot imagine how this engine would mount right side up on that. I need to SEE it.

Then I asked about his belt transmission. He said it's easier to install the belt after it's mounted on the motor, which is easier after the motor is installed on the bike. BUT every video I have seen so far, the best way to make absolutely sure the drive gear lines up with the gear on the rear wheel, is to NOT mount the motor until you can set it in place, mark exactly where it needs to be, THEN mount it.

So again, everything is in a pile, and I'm frustrated.


OH… my car mechanic stopped by. His comment, "I'd like to see how this all goes together." Now I don't know if I can ask HIM to sit through videos too. He's got cars to fix. I'm just the neighbor ya know? Be one thing if I get this all together and something needs tweaking. Not have him do it for me.


additional…. I thought I could try and install the transmission to the motor before mounting the motor. Seems it's gotta be this way.
But… (Terms now, may be off.) The cup part of the transmission that fits over the motor, is already bolted onto the transmission with TWO bolts and locking nuts. With a hex end.
One of his poorly marked bags of parts, has four studs in it. I THINK he said this is for mounting the transmision. So am I suppose to remove the two already on? WHY would the be on with locking nuts if that were the case?

His transmission is unlike anything on any video too. NOT helpful. He really should have included diagrams and instructions in the kit.


Here, maybe this will help. The exact kit I got. http://thatsdax.com/4STROKE_kits.html
 
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