Tanaka PF-3300 performance upgrades? Or swap up to PF-4000? Feedback needed.

[AlphaGeek]

I recalibrated my bike comp yesterday -- in my enthusiasm and haste to get up and running I used a tire circumference from the reference table in the manual instead of actually measuring my front tire. With the 13T gear and a relatively green motor I am achieving 29.3-29.7 mph top speed on the flats. Any way you measure it, it's still faster than I can pedal-assist using the stock gearing on my Giant MTB. I may talk to the local bike shop about swapping the front crank for a road-bike unit with a larger top-gear sprocket in the 48T+ range.

The longer throttle cable I ordered from MonsterScooterParts was not compatible with the fittings on my bike, so when I just ordered an 80-inch throttle/cable assembly from GEBE I tossed a 14T gear in the cart along with it. However, since climbing the incline on the Dumbarton bridge slowed me to 20-23mph this morning I'm not sure if I'll install the 14T permanently until I add a tuned pipe.

Good to know that the intake manifold is machinable. I saw the cutest little carbon-fiber boost bottle for model-aircraft 2-strokes today, but when I ran the math it was only 12.2cc. Funny that the idea has made it into the R/C community with their even tinier 2-stroke motors.

I can wait on a tach until you get the PNW Co-Op up and running. Be sure to post an announcement as the day draws near...

-AG

 

[AlphaGeek]

The place I linked above for the 32233 kit (pipe, carb, intake) has a limited number of 33cc kits for ~$250 shipped. Well, as of tomorrow, they'll have one less -- I placed my order for mine tonight. I figure this is the cheapest way to get most of the upgrades I'll eventually want to install on the motor proper, even if I end up holding off on some of them (i.e. the carb) until further into the break-in cycle.

Up to 140 miles as of tonight. My rear is sore, but my new Nashbar suspension seatpost should help with that. (After seeing how incredibly long ground shipping takes with Nashbar/Performance Bike, I did not hesitate to upgrade to 2-day air on this order...)

Upgrades ordered and in the queue for install:
* tuned pipe with thermal wrap and stealth hi-temp paint (probably black)
* velocity stack & filter
* HP carb (deferred until at least 500 miles)
* Slickasaurus tires for lower rolling resistance and better cornering
* Topeak cargo rack and trunk/pannier bag so I don't have to get all sweaty where my backpack presses against my riding jacket

This is more fun than it should be.

-AG

 

[AndyT]

Tanaka 32 Upgrade Carb - Need Some Help If You Own One

Old thread, but.....

I have been searching around for the Tanaka 32cc upgrade carb kit. I called H and H Lawncare, and although it's listed on their site, the distributor has it on back order. GEBE doesn't have them either.

If you own this carb kit, can you PLEASE look at the carb and let me know the part number. The number will be stamped on main carb body, near the bottom, on the side away from the adjustment screw and the fuel fittings. You can see it with the airc cleaner cover on, but removing it may help.

The number should read WYKXXX XXX. It could also just have just numbers and read XXX XXX. The first 3 numbers you see are what is needed.

Thanks!

 

[augidog]

there is "WYK" stamped on one ear, and two sets of bad eyes think we see "85-440" on the body where you said it would be.

i've been dealing locally with www.powershopcentralia.com with great luck, and they were able to confirm by phone that "WYK 85" is a good walbro number & associated with Tanaka products, but not able to tell us any details beyond that.

also, they say the HP carb kit is available (pending local distributor confirmation)...around $100 with shipping...tanaka pt # 32098

 

[AndyT]

there is "WYK" stamped on one ear, and two sets of bad eyes think we see "85-440" on the body where you said it would be.

i've been dealing locally with www.powershopcentralia.com with great luck, and they were able to confirm by phone that "WYK 85" is a good walbro number & associated with Tanaka products, but not able to tell us any details beyond that.

also, they say the HP carb kit is available (pending local distributor confirmation)...around $100 with shipping...tanaka pt # 32098

Haha, I'm your age and I just use reading glasses!

Thanks for the info bud. That is a good part number for a 12.2mm carb.

Did you ever try the larger carb you got at one point? I have a new 13.5mm WYK-119 sitting right here, and I might just try that out. It's a WYK style and will bolt on, but I would have to modify the manifold of course. I'm going to stick with the stock exhaust.

Dennis told me these engines are really held back by the small carb.

 

[augidog]

i completely agree that stock purefire engines will burn far more fuel than we can give them "off the shelf"...i guess it's the company's way of "governing" them for longer life.

i found a wyk-85 cross-referenced with the 47cc tbl & tbc...maybe a closer look at those tanaka parts books will give you final confirmation.

my dremel-style rotary tool has a sanding drum that easily re-sized the intake with one pass and there's room for a larger bore...if you can get the pulse-passage lined up, that 13.5's worth trying, eh? i never did try applying a 15mm to the 33, but thanks to your question and a boring winter i'm gonna have another look at the situation

btw-i live in my reading glasses, my vision is great but my eyes are way lazier than they used to be...too much up-close monitor time since the interbent came along...getting on the road for a spell is gonna help out in so many ways, back-to-basics & all that jazz

 

[AndyT]

I agree about these darn monitors, it's like being socked in the eyes all day long.

Thanks for the info. I just might try the 13.5mm venturi carb. At worst it will be too big. Then I might have to do some porting! Oh my, where will it end?

 

[augidog]

it will not end...keep us posted

 

[happycheapskate]

Boost bottle on 3300, DONE

http://motorbicycling.com/picture.php?albumid=531&pictureid=3860
(loctite 5min epoxy or super glue gel, brass 1/4 double barb, hole just large enough to slip it into, angled toward the port as it goes into the spacer. )

http://motorbicycling.com/picture.php?albumid=531&pictureid=3904[/IMG
Boost bottle made from AXE spray can, 5min epoxy, and brass double 1/4 barb

[quote="AlphaGeek, post: 164046"]Where's the fun in sticking with the stock airbox? :) Next thing you're going to tell me is that stickers and logos have no effect on performance...

I didn't quite understand the comment about drilling additional holes in the bottom of the airbox -- is this to accommodate a difference in bolt locations between the std and HP carb?



Are you [B]sure[/B] it's the powerkart pipe? The reason I ask is that your pipe has the telltale U-bend before the silencer, whereas the powerkart version has a straight pipe. I'm using the pictures on this merchant website as my reference:

[url]http://www.powerequipmentandparts.com/performance_packs.htm[/url]



It hadn't occurred to me that the stock muffler has a catalyst in it, but it makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

The downside to attaching the stock muffler/cat to the stinger is, um, WOW that looks like an ugly hack. :) Then again, if I put a pipe on mine it's going to get wrapped in insulating exhaust tape and painted hi-temp black, so having the stock muffler hanging off the end like a tumor might not be that noticeable.

Would you say that running the pipe with silencer AND the stock muffler/cat yields sound levels comparable to stock? Or better/worse?

Also, does the OEM muffler/cat only attach in one orientation, or can you rotate it to point the exhaust outlet in a particular direction?



Probably not. Based on my recent indulgence in self-education on two-stroke performance tuning, I think you'll want to modify your pipe so you can vary the runner length between the exhaust manifold and the expansion chamber. The Tanaka pipe is clearly optimized to boost midrange performance, whereas for top-speed runs you'll want to move the power peak up the RPM curve. Varying the runner length will enable you to tune the arrival of the reflected pulse, which may give enough additional torque at the top end to fully exploit a 14-tooth drive gear.



Were you able to plumb the boost bottle directly into the plastic intake manifold/spacer? It's never clear how machinable plastic parts are until you try modifying them, so I figured a spare plastic spacer was going to be a necessary prerequisite to trying a boost bottle in case the original was destroyed in the attempt.



At this point, I think I'm going to hang onto the PF33 through a full break-in cycle and try out some of the off-the-shelf performance mods. It may be tailwind effect and/or bike computer calibration error, but I was getting indicated speed of 31mph+ on a long flat straight at sea level last week with less than 50 miles on the engine. I'm going to carefully calibrate the bike comp for precise tire rolling circumference and do some two-way runs on Monday to see what I find, but I think I've got a particularly strong pf33 now that it's starting to settle in.

Regarding the tach/hour-meter: we should organize a group buy, given the very nice 40% discount for 10+ units and the fact that reshipment by USPS first-class mail would be inexpensive. Suggestions on how to organize this?

-AG

PS: Thanks for all the helpful info. It was fun looking at your pictures from the Salt Lake -- my dog (and kids) got to see it in person on our 2006 driving tour of the northwest. I mention the dog first because he decided to roll around in the stinkiest patch of fermenting salt solution he could find.[/QUOTE]

 

[aaalbert]

I have a power/tuned pipe if you like. You can have it for $15.00 + shipping. Let me know if you need a pic.