Tell me why I shouldn't buy Staton friction drive

[kerf]

Before I bought my first Staton friction drive, I looked at the DE but thought they were not built as well as Staton. The housing appears to be formed diamond plate rather than an extrusion and the roller is only supported on only one side by a bearing. I've never had a problem with the stock TLE43 clutch or for that matter any of Staton's drums. The DE would make for an easier roller change but it looks to me like a trade off.

 

[pumpbuilder]

I am jonsing for one of the Aluminum Diamond Plate ones myself. Mine is one of the stock steel ones. The drive shaft is different so it does not need the extra bearing set. Its really not like a staton at all except in looks.

When I find my digital Camera I will do some more pics, as far as dependability goes I have had one of the manual drive type's from DE every time they have made a engine or in the case of an upgrade to the non engine part of the system I have ordered the new upgrade and attached it myself. This kit I have had sine the shuttle blew up on re entry when ever that was. I bought it 1 month before then. No bearing issues on this kit or my first US Engine one, the "49'r" that replaced that engine, Italion Connection, [Wow was that fast but as easy to start as an old Ferrari.], and now my Mitsubishi Encore. So that is 4 kits since 92 and last I heard everyone who bought or was gifted my old ones was happy with them.

I belive Rob when he tells me about Bike messangers in NYC who use them and after years of daily use with the clutch model finally have to send them in for a free clutch replacement. Thats a sweet deal.

 

[bg lange]

don't go with a friction drive unless you don't want to get hands on

my advice would be to use chain drive put the motor in front of the seat and put a jackshaft where the pedals are (yes remove the pedals u can't pedal it but it's worth it)
u put a centrifugal clutch with a small sprocket 10-12 teeth on the engine put a larger sprocket about 4-5x the size of the other one. then put a sproket 1/3 the size of the large one on the back if you leave the rear gears and shifter you will have a 5-6 speed moped (much faster than 25 with even small motors) you final gear ratio will need to be 12-15:1 meaning to spin the wheel once the motor will spin 12-15 time this is if you are using a weed wacker ect. for a motor these will go 7000rpm is you use a regular horisontal engine it will only go 3600rpm but it has more tourqe then the gear ratio needs to be 6-8:1 if it is done like this it WILL be low maintanence oh, for the chain connecting the wheel to the jackshaft u will need to use a bike chain to use the gears it will be heavy enoung if you aren't really hard ( don't drive like a maniack) on it and if your engine isn't bigger than 4hp

 

[shawnshank]

I would agree that friction drive is better than a happytime. It freewheels and has a quality engine. Gearing changes should be easier than most systems as well. The only reason I wouldn't personally get a friction drive for my own use is because the hills are killers around here and it rains pretty often. I've heard people had good success with their friction kits even ridden hard. I'd say go for it but remember, if you hold out for just a while longer you may be able to afford a better chain driven system and you won't have to double purchase to upgrade later.

The TLE43 is an excellent engine BTW.

What is the better chain drive you recommend in this post?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Well, there are two Staton friction assemblies with Mitsubishi 43cc engines on my bike "Mr. Hyde". I'm in the process of retrofitting either a used Staton chain drive or a used Titan chain drive, using the same powerplants. The same 16t freewheel hub should be able to link the Staton or the Titan kit with the proper sprockets.

 

[SirJakesus]

What is the better chain drive you recommend in this post?

I've heard of lots of people having luck with the Titan rackmount and the Staton chain drives are even more bullet proof. Theres one guy on this forum that has his staton geared high so he can cruise at 35 to do his 30 or so mile commute by bicycle every day and it hasn't exploded on him yet.

Since this post I actually installed a staton friction drive on a new bike of mine and I'm really impressed with it. Very simple setup and lots of power to the road. I have not yet run it on wet roads so I don't know how bad the infamous slippage issue is first hand. But it's so light weight you could easily pedal it as a bike without any issues at all.

 

[pumpbuilder]

Check this out, copied it from a recumbent posting so its a trike with a strange spot for the engagement lever, normally they are right in front in your field of vision but listen to the difference in noise, it is so much quieter then the ones with clutch housings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu5h3BFTpbs&feature=related