Tension Roller Tweaks

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by Steve, Jan 4, 2007.

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  1. Steve

    Steve Guest

    Got an idea that I want to run by y'all...seems like the tention roller has a lot of friction and drag. So, my idea is, take a link out of the engine chain so you have to adjust the wheel position to make it right, and then put the tention roller on the bottom of the crank chain. The drag then would be when you are peddling, and not when the engine is running. Wadaya think? :???:

  2. Heath

    Heath Guest

    that's exactly what Ethan and I did on the one we built. it works just fine!
  3. tirebiter

    tirebiter Guest

    That's something I never thought of....good idea. :cool: It would keep the tensioner on the chain that isn't spinning and that could keep it from rotating and being pulled into the spokes.
  4. bird

    bird Guest

    why dont u just take it off completely and put a different sized sproket on the peddeling side of the wheel to change the tension of the peddeling chain to match the drive chain.
  5. Steve

    Steve Guest

    Bird, personally, I think that would be a "hit or miss" type of thing, involve a lot of work, and has the potential to never come out right, i.e. is two additional teeth too much, or too little?
  6. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    sometimes you need the tensioner on the engine side so the chain clears the frame. sometimes ya don't. if you can get by without it on the engine side , & need it on the pedal side, cool.... makes perfect sense!
  7. Wheels

    Wheels Guest

    I am curious how many sprocket teeth are on the front motor drive sprocket of the chinese 48.s and 80,s are they the same?

  8. istbenz

    istbenz Guest

    10 teeth... i think :cool:
  9. tirebiter

    tirebiter Guest

    Both my 80cc and 48cc have the same....10 teeth.
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    are the clutches & gear ratio on the other side the same on 80's & 48"s ???? I only have 48's & 55's. I heard 80's have a bigger clutch.
  11. foyeburger

    foyeburger Guest

    thats my plan with the chain tensioner when i get the engine side of the chain right the crank side is to lose so i take out a link and now its to tight i tried a half link also still to tight or to loose ill use the chain tensioner on the crank side instead of on the engine side see how that works larry ca
  12. Wheels

    Wheels Guest

    Thanks all for the info on ratio.

  13. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    Tensoner on pedal side

    So put the tensoner on the side with the bicycle chain not the engine side. That sounds like a good idea.
  14. bird

    bird Guest

    its actually pretty easy if you have the right parts.
    your coaster break sproket might have an even number of teeth on it and your chains dont have equal tension on them, take the coaster break sproket and replace it with a sproket with an odd number of teeth then take your chain and break it to the correct length and both of your chains will be even.

    it sounds kinda confusing but keep in mind if you have a sproket with an even number of teeth you have to change to an odd and if you have a sproket with and odd number of teeth you have to change to an even or your just making the chain smaller and you will still have to much slack on once side and not enough on the other.
  15. apratt

    apratt Guest

    That was too easy. :lol: :lol:
  16. bird

    bird Guest

    here is a pic of my bike and another with both chains even and no tensioner. ohh and i wouldnt try doing this unless you realy know what your doing.


    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 13, 2008
  17. nogoodnic42

    nogoodnic42 Guest

    I had to come up with a creative way to take the slap out of my chain. I have one of the Poo Poo Pipes that Grubee had awhile back. On top of having to tweak a couple of bends to get it to fit properly, once it was in place there was no longer anyplace for my tentioner. I had been experimenting with using a ghost ring on the pedal side just becaust I thought it looked cool. Well when I had my new pipe in place and more chain slap than I was comfortable ridding with I remembered I had an extra 22t cog laying around and decided to try it. I have around 300 miles with it in place and for the most part no problems. It has popped out a couple of times but no big deal. Heres a couple of pics...Kelly
  18. Steve

    Steve Guest


    Yes, I understand how to do it, that's not an issue. I just feel like it's too mucy trial and error to suite me, and getting all the different sized sprokets is also something I wouldn't want to deal with. Yes, basically, I'm lazy. :grin:
  19. tirebiter

    tirebiter Guest

    I agree Steve. From one lazy old fart to another, easy is good and having the tensioner on the crank side saves all that dinking around with sprockets, half links, and stuff. I had both chains adjusted the same for a while (and it was a pain in the ass by the way) but after a few miles the engine drive chain stretched some and it was loose compared to the crank chain again.

    Also, proper alignment of the front and rear sprocket is very important and sometimes in an effort to get both chains tight you can end up with the rear sprocket not running true to the front.

    The weather is still warm here so I think I'll switch the tensioner over this weekend and give it a try. I still have a shorter drive chain left over from my earlier attempt to get them the same.
  20. Heath

    Heath Guest

    so this ghost ring, does it just sit in there and spin away with nothing but chain tension holding it in place?