That useless white wire....

ImpulseRocket said:
If I were going to go through all that trouble I would honestly look into winding my own coil for it, and instead of one, have 2 with separate output wires so you could run a pair of bridge rectifiers in parallel. That would maintain voltage while helping to boost current output, and also convert it to DC power at the same time.

Keep in mind that depending on how you regulate the voltage for charging you will see an efficiency loss.
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The operating voltage of the magneto is pretty high, my idea is to keep the magneto as the sole provider for the ignition and pull a small amount of power off of it to maintain charge lights or phone off of. Note that a bucking regulator is pretty efficient especially when reducing voltage, if it's working within about a 24 Volt baseline it would have a fair amount of power overhead when reducing the voltage. But someone will have to actually build this and experiment. I will probably get around to this.
 
LewieBike said:
The operating voltage of the magneto is pretty high, my idea is to keep the magneto as the sole provider for the ignition and pull a small amount of power off of it to maintain charge lights or phone off of. Note that a bucking regulator is pretty efficient especially when reducing voltage, if it's working within about a 24 Volt baseline it would have a fair amount of power overhead when reducing the voltage. But someone will have to actually build this and experiment. I will probably get around to this.
Click to expand...
Which is why I said to wind your own coils, and more than one. Heck, you could wind several smaller coils together in parallel or any combo as desired. There are ways to get higher current and lower voltage with better efficiency than simply shunting excess power with a regulator. Motorcycle stators actually achieve this doing the same thing, several small coil winds run in parallel.

It would definitely require experimenting.
 
ImpulseRocket said:
Which is why I said to wind your own coils, and more than one. Heck, you could wind several smaller coils together in parallel or any combo as desired. There are ways to get higher current and lower voltage with better efficiency than simply shunting excess power with a regulator. Motorcycle stators actually achieve this doing the same thing, several small coil winds run in parallel.

It would definitely require experimenting.
Click to expand...
Are you just winding coils of wire on top of the ignition mag's coils? There will be some efficiency loss just from the distance from the magneto's core. Coming down to efficiency making a little windmill on your bike with a small brushless RC model airplane motor would probably generate far more power. The stator's side arms on these might be better places to be winding charge coil(s). Once again I'd isolate the entire winding and rectifiers so there's no connection to the engine or bike's frame.

Edited to add: Switching ( bucking..) regulators do not shunt current resistively like a motorcycle regulator does, they take excess voltage and or current and either divide or multiply the voltage up or down or switch the current to a trickle (or off..) through very high frequency pulse width modulation switching.
 
LewieBike said:
Are you just winding coils of wire on top of the ignition mag's coils? There will be some efficiency loss just from the distance from the magneto's core. Coming down to efficiency making a little windmill on your bike with a small brushless RC model airplane motor would probably generate far more power. The stator's side arms on these might be better places to be winding charge coil(s). Once again I'd isolate the entire winding and rectifiers so there's no connection to the engine or bike's frame.
Click to expand...
I haven't done anything. Just offering solutions. I wouldn't bother with this myself since I can build a battery pack that can run lights for several hours.
 
ImpulseRocket said:
I haven't done anything. Just offering solutions. I wouldn't bother with this myself since I can build a battery pack that can run lights for several hours.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have a bike light set with a 7.4 volt 6000 mAh battery pack that has a run time on it's lowest setting of over 30 hours. It's a little old school being from 2015. On high setting it's really bright. And it uses a switching voltage booster to charge the 7.4 Lithium cells from a 5 volt USB charge port
 

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