Thatsdax Titan XC 50cc

Hey John,
Sounds like we had the same idea just different materials. I have tons of scrap 1 inch tubing but I had aslo considered using a piece of angle iron lind of like what you did.
I found a box of bushing we are not using anymore and added those on as shock absorbers. I can tell by the picture i need to raise the tube since the horizontal bar is bent down a tad.
 

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I had to agree with Fetor that the strap should be stiff/rigid. The construction company in the warehouse next door always throws away good stuff. My last find was 3/8th all thread 6foot long and a box of nuts and washers to go along with it.
Dax's original strap was 5/16th. Luckily the 3/8th fits perfectly in the sleeves of Dax's connectors. I used some of my 1 in 16ga steel tubing I use for my product. Punched 3/8th holes in it on my punch press. Instead of one solid bold bent or welded, I have 2 individual bolts attached to the tubing.

For another idea. What do you guys think if I would get some strong springs and put them between washers where the nuts hit the tubing or the the sleeves? To absorb some of the push and pull of the engine?

That's much improved Scott...the tubing is a good idea & something i'll remember.
I have however put nuts,then spring washers,then locknuts in the locking system to make absolutely sure nothing will come undone.
Thanks for the info man about the PTO....i'll research the oil grade further. :)
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Mine broke from the engine side. Here's my fix:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=148476&postcount=53

It was my fault. I pulled my rope to start when I was going down a hill. The clutch grabbed when I was rolling too fast and it snapped the bolt. It may have already have been stressed by that truck but I dunno for sure. I do know I won't pull that rope going down a hill again. I'll wait till I slow down some.

One post up is how I fixed my mount when after riding it forever i took a good look and realized when that truck hit me he really hit me good!

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=148472&postcount=52

Scott I love how you did that angling with that square. That is brilliant!
 
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I would be somewhat concerned about possible fatigue induced cracks developing where the threaded rod is sharply bent at the bottom attachment.If you had a flexible mounting there you would be OK,your's looks on the rigid side to me. Actually a hinge at that location allowing a pivoting movement would be safest in my opinion since it would not subject the rod to any bending stresses at all and also have no adverse effect on the overall structural integrity.

I prevent that by moving the threaded rod as far as it will go until it goes in the engine side hole without any give whatsoever. Hard to explain but bottom line my threaded rod has absolutely no resistance. When I tighten down the rod on the bike side I check again. It's actually gotten easier to do this with my bolt fix last thread over because the rod now has room for error. Then after the bike side is tight,wherever it falls on the engine side I tighten that down.

No fatigue.
 
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