The 1956 Harley ST165 "Hummer" rebuild begins today!

Risk Man

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The engine completely rebuilt inside and out by "Mutt" Hallam from TX lies in wait in the return shipping box while I prepare the chassis. Will be rush to the first ride prior to February 6th when I have rotator cuff surgery on my left shoulder after tearing it lifting one of my bikes on September 28th. Last picture is the bike the day I brought it home in august.

First order is to replace the Teleglide Fork boots... really different than working on a "bike"... I am graduating quickly to the MC world! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Remove Front wheel.... I think! Take grease fitting out and release the speedo cable... be careful not to loss the rotary gear. Take the cotter pin out of the front brake barrel and remove it freeing it up. Take the right axle nut and washer off. Loosen the pinch bolt on the left side of the Fork end. Turn the bike on the side (not) and drive the axle out of the hub.

When I got the axle half way out both of the front inner fork tubes dropped to the ground with the fender I left on with two bolts. Oh yeah, I tried to first remove the fender but it does not come off as the fork is too narrow thus the indents on the fender. It needs to drop through the forks.

The previous owner ("it just needs a fuel line and ready to ride") NOT! did not screw the lower fork tubes in. They have a "broom handle" course three threads to screw into the internal spring. was just pushed up into the outside fork tubes, All can out including the fender!

Oh, now I need new lower fork seals of course to install the lower fork tubes and new boots.. Waiting for parts.. working on some of the front wheel rust today.
 

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The engine completely rebuilt inside and out by "Mutt" Hallam from TX lies in wait in the return shipping box while I prepare the chassis. Will be rush to the first ride prior to February 6th when I have rotator cuff surgery on my left shoulder after tearing it lifting one of my bikes on September 28th.

First order is to replace the Teleglide Fork boots... really different than working on a "bike"... I am graduating quickly to the MC world! :ROFLMAO:
I injured both rotator cuffs, I liked it so much I did the right one a second time. Didn't need surgery, 6 or 7 weeks of physio though. I was a lot younger then, now it sure acts up when the pressure changes.
 
I injured both rotator cuffs, I liked it so much I did the right one a second time. Didn't need surgery, 6 or 7 weeks of physio though. I was a lot younger then, now it sure acts up when the pressure changes.
Miraculous recovery on my shoulder 3 weeks ago after a round of golf! Surgeon cancelled surgery after re-assessment last week. Therapy and move on.. Ride, Ride, Ride!!!
 
The work has begun (engine is still sitting quietly in the box) but no picnic on stubborn 69 year old parts!

Tore down the front end to clean up the Teleglide front end and replace the oil boots. The oil seals in the bell end of the outer fork tubes proved to be a week long removal project. Left one took a day to pry out. There is a lower brass busing the center and guide the inner fork elements. Left side it was recessed into the outer tube as it should be and left just enough room to pry it out with much effort, but done. The right side (from the front view) was another long effort indeed.

The lower bushing was protruding out of the end of the fork tube capturing the oil seal metal ring and leaving no room to remove it. No problem. Just take a socket and BFH and wack it in... not! slipped off, tried to deform the bushing, would not move.

Ok, use my woodworking skills and lathe to turn a stepped driving wedge; inside diameter 1 inch and outside diameter 1 1/4 to the outside dimension of the bushing. Again, BFH and drive it in... NOT. Heat on the outside tube was not appropriate with the finished paint in place.

So, I lost some sleep a few nights ago thinking about a "jack screw" i could fashion out of threaded rod, 1 inch wooden dowels with holes to center the rod at the top and bottom of the fork tube and keep it in line and prevent flexing. I tried to use 1 1/4 fender washers as the "puller" but no surprise they deformed (doubled two of them up). So plan b was to use the 1 1/4 socket (solid steel) as the "ram" and with a huge ratchet on the top nut and much torque and force, and the "ceeking" and moaning of the 69 year old bushing; it finally gave way! Success!

The fun continues. Refurbished the inside forks and springs. Waiting on new seals to re assemble and move on to the wiring.
 

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Next challenge this week was the re-wiring of the bike. I obtained a true to year and model set of cloth covered, correct color coded and loomed wire sets. The horn button not the right side of the bike has a one wire feed and the headlight High-low switch on the left side has three wires. The challenge is they are chased up through the fork tube and into the handlebar stem and then across to the end of the bars on the right and left. The existing wires were too weak to pull a guide wire back out so I had to start from scratch after removing them.

I tried and was able to get a length of Paracord done from the left side of the bar by grabbing it up though the fork tube with a wire hook. but to pull three wires up through multiple curves in the bars was not working. Thinner string? Yes, butcher twine proved to be strong enough. How to get that light weight string down or up? Shop vac!!! Feed it from the holes in the bars and "suck" it down the fork tube with the shop vac. Worked perfect and was able to first pull the three wires on one side, then he single horn wire on the other side.
 

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