The 1956 Harley ST165 "Hummer" rebuild begins today!

I have an ancient MAC tools shop chair that my dad pulled from a dumpster when he was working for Uhaul probably 25 years ago.
My back is bad.... I have since added a lumbar support pad to the chair... I beats the heck ouf of the little stool I used to sit on. I try to do most of my work standing at my heavy duty workbench, but some tedius tasks are better done like this. The buckets work great and I turn them with the flat side up as a platform as well. Best use was using all four at the corners of my hollow core door for a 2 foot work table off the floor!
 
Worked the rear wiring a bit while I waited for brake shoes and bearings to arrive Monday. There were two pass through terminals in the fender for the brake light and tail light. They used the usual insulated washers and either side to insulate from the metal fender. That relied upon a centered screw in the oversize hole to prevent a short. Not too reliable thought when I checked the continuity, it was ok.

I decided to add grommets and buy new brass screws and washers to install. Fool proof. Not stock, but I want this bike to look good and be reliable not juried show winner.
 

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Got the new shoe liners in the mail today. After work, I decided to rivet them on the shoes. Had to grind a taper on the edges to keep them from catching on the drum. Came in NOS box that was unopened since 1948! Bought a set of Roll Pin punches for peening over the rivets. They worked perfect. Flat punch in the vice on the head side and peen over with tool on the other while holding it tight to the punch in the vise. Came out great. Got them mounted in the drum. Next up are the bearings and then reassemble the wheel
 

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Tail Light wiring time. Test fitted the new harness within the fender. The end terminates into the talk light. The tail light comes without the brake light option; that needs to be added. My new harness includes that wire and I purchase the brake light switch. My tail light bulb connector only has one spring contact. My parts and info guy "Mutt" in TX has an extra and I am good to go. Now to wire it up so it can be taken apart without having to cut the connector off each time from the harness in the fender well. Pictures tell the story.
 

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Tail Light wiring time. Test fitted the new harness within the fender. The end terminates into the talk light. The tail light comes without the brake light option; that needs to be added. My new harness includes that wire and I purchase the brake light switch. My tail light bulb connector only has one spring contact. My parts and info guy "Mutt" in TX has an extra and I am good to go. Now to wire it up so it can be taken apart without having to cut the connector off each time from the harness in the fender well. Pictures tell the story.
Also, as you can see, I used the same color wire for both of the bulb connectors. No matter as I could not be sure of the brake vs the taillight pin so the other reason for the take down connectors is so I can reverse them easily when I hook it up to make sure I have proper connection for taillight filament always on and brake light filament activated with braking.
 
Also, as you can see, I used the same color wire for both of the bulb connectors. No matter as I could not be sure of the brake vs the taillight pin so the other reason for the take down connectors is so I can reverse them easily when I hook it up to make sure I have proper connection for taillight filament always on and brake light filament activated with braking.
after you figure it out, mark the brake light wire with a short piece of red shrink wrap
 
Finished the taillight and fender wiring harness, but i have a question/ problem
 

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