The Blue,the Black and the Ugly (White)

[duivendyk]

RIP the CDI flap,now back to the white wire battery charger. RC wants to redo the whole shebang, CDI, generator coil, the works.Which is certainly a worthwhile endeavour but could be a tad ambitious for the lesser brethern to get themselves entangled in.I propose a more modest step based approach,Step one is a voltage output test:
First hook up a simple rectifier circuit to the white & black wire and measure the dc output at idle and at normal running speed.(both negative and positive).All it takes is a garden variety power diode,a cap (1000 micro farad plus,25 V or higher rating) and a resistor (1000-10000 ohm range),the diode should be hooked up both ways,since the pos.& neg.output may not be the same,watch the polarity of the storage cap when you reverse the diode connections.Subsequently the load will be increased to find what we can get away with.That will be step two.
Is anybody out there game?

 

[BoltsMissing]

Having done the battery charger project back at school, I would not reccomend winding a coil manually, although we did. It has to be done right and exact.
I think, the way to go is to make another magneto and coil system.
The HT parts are cost affordable to buy, therefore an option to consider is to use HT Magnet and Coil, and make a housing whith shaft,bearing and some way to spin the magnet, similar project to that jack-shaft. If possible, it may actually become part of the chain tensioner. These are just ideas that come to mind, project stuff. I have seen some HT display a cable zip start. Perhaps in that area of space a auxilary magneto housing could fit instead of cable-zip start.
The other thing, maybe by the time we end this, the HT factory would probably have solved the auxilary power source to supersede the current White Wire with their version of twin magneto system.

 

[BSA]

I have seen some HT display a cable pull start. Perhaps in that area of space a auxilary magneto housing could fit instead of cable-zip start.

Now were onto something. Good thinking Boltsmissing. Perhaps we could attatch better magneto assembly to shaft in pull start unit, run wires to better CDi.

BSA

 

[BoltsMissing]

BSA, I personally not interested ina "better CDI" at this stage, the existing one works.
The point of this mass disection seem to focus on the White Wire/Auxilary power source, without compromising the current available ingition power source.
We have options.
1. Bottle Dynamno running off the bike's wheel, they don't make them like they used to and the current versions won't last much longer than a week.
An original Millers ( made in England) bottle dynamo is fine, mine has not blown up yet, but ya cannot get them.
1a Made in Germany Bottle Dynamo, expensive and many sets don't come with fittings, research showed about $500.00 AUD, in total to have a complete light set. The exploit here is, make us buy batteries because we keeep buying batteries, rather than "set and forget" system of things.

2. Hub Dynamo, never had one so I cannot comment.

3. Electric window wind-up motors from cars, too many around to have a standard
4. whatever else..,

5. Twin HT Magneto, the balck and blue wire on the 2nd magneto is the auxilary power source.

6. ????

??

 

[arceeguy]

BSA, I personally not interested ina "better CDI" at this stage, the existing one works.
The point of this mass disection seem to focus on the White Wire/Auxilary power source, without compromising the current available ingition power source........

Judging by what I've been reading here, I thought that the stock CDI was a failure prone item. That is why I ordered spares when I ordered my HT engines. Maybe there is a lot of misinformation being passed around? If you look at the CDI dissection, there is no reason to think that water could possibly reach the electronics components potted in epoxy, yet we are warned about getting the CDI wet. I also got the idea that they will fail by using the stop switch, which doesn't make sense either. (duivendyk pointed out the technical reasons why that shouldn't be the case)

In any case, if you are looking for more auxiliary power and rewinding the existing stator doesn't float your boat, you can look up some of the homebrew "wind power" generator projects out there on the net and give it a go. (driving the generator with the engine, not the wind of course!) We could attach the magnets to a pullstart assembly (as mentioned) or maybe even the rear sprocket to generate power as the wheel turns. Those generator hubs look cool, but they are pricey.

 

[duivendyk]

Go to www.pilom.com Interesting site with info on bike electricals (dynamos etc).Hub dynamos have more output at higher speed than the bottle types,are suitable for charging
6V (Schottky diode fullwave rectifier).
Car motors,I have tried some,usually are inefficient,tried a 12 V blower motor as a 6V dc generator,worked in principle but was rather inefficient.Which is not all that terrible with power assist.Driving the thing was the hard part.Could get enough juice though.The white wire is not a lost cause,if you have a HT type engine, but I need info.

 

[duivendyk]

That would be much "cleaner" electrically, if you think things through, but you may not have the luxury of enough winding space for that,are you talking about 15 V rms?,30 W seems pretty ambitious to me.Good luck.

 

[duivendyk]

Moisture may get inside the box via the plug wire,depending on how it is mounted expansion& contraction with temp. can slowly let moisture insinuate itself into the coil.Silicon rubber is a better sealant because of its resilience.Hermiticity is a relative thing!Ignition coils are usually oil filled with smallish exits to the outside.If people used the white wire to ground to kill the engine or developed a short to ground they didn't know about,they might have screwed things up too.The only way to find out the extent of the problem,is to have some kind of poll.Have you had to replace your CDI or not?.But I would guess that reporting would prolly be weighted towards those who actually experienced problems.Sometimes you get a rash of of them because of a bad batch of components.The problem is fixed, but the harm to reputation is done.For instance the VW ignition coil debacle of a few years ago.

 

[BoltsMissing]

The myth on CDI, it's been known to frizzle due to other components shorting out. I know for a fact on a certain model MB, the manufacturer insists on resistor spark plug, or void warranty.

The 12v electric motor I tried was actually the sun-roof motor off a Merc. But it's too bulky for any practical use, and not enough of them to go round.

I to now am confused what this thread is all about.

So I'll hold the fort on HT engine/chain driven 2nd magneto set-up auxilary power for lights or battery charger etc.

 

[duivendyk]

Resistor plugs are a good idea on general principles (RFI).I'm leery of the explanation,You can't instantly zap the coil if the plug current is not limited,it takes some time I would think,and the engine would have quit immediately.It's most likely a matter of shoddy construction and borderline performance (no design margins) so anything that is not quite up to snuff anymore is catastrophic.That's my take on it