The 110 Adventures.

I do think this motor has some potential. It has some good things going for it like the beefier cases, thermal mass in the cylinder, and outside of the combustion chamber design, a relatively decent head design in regards to surface area for cooling. It's entirely possible to work this motor into something that can happily operate within the RPM range the bottom ends are really meant to work within, and there is something to be said for low end grunt, even if the horsepower isn't any more impressive than the smaller engines.
 
Pleasant surprise, but I found head gaskets that match the bore of the cylinder while searching for base gaskets since I tore the original one.



Ebay source. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234456081852?var=534026467297

They are actually just a teeny bit smaller than 52mm, so they need a little touching up with a sanding drum or a file. They are, of course, a bit thicker than I would like at .8mm, but that also means I can just shave the cylinder down to almost zero squish gap.

I am actually considering adding a second base gasket to this engine. The one downside to doing so is that it does just barely expose the top ring to the intake port and does decrease the intake port timing, but it also increases the exhaust and transfer duration a couple/few degrees as well. The decreased compression is already something I needed to contend with anyway, and the cylinder has over 3mm of deck surface to work with.

Not the most accurate picture, but this is a 3mm allen key on the edge of the crown with the piston at TDC with 2 based gaskets and the head gasket in place.



I also have some room to play with on the head side of things as well, which would also help to decrease the chamber volume and increase compression. I can remove about .5-.6mm from the head and 2mm from the jug to compensate for the added base gasket and the thicker head gasket. That should set my squish gap around .7-.8mm with said gaskets in place.

I will definitely check my timing figures again with both base gaskets. The two gaskets definitely help improve things with the exhaust and transfer side, which is where it will honestly do more good. I think if I only had one minor issue with it is that the top ring just barely exposes itself fully into the intake side. I know that isn't a huge deal, and with the gaskets compressed it will improve a tiny bit, but it is still a thing to contend with. I will just need to make sure to do a good bevel at the top to help prevent the rings possibly catching. The bottom of the piston skirt just barely starts to block the intake port as well, but that is easily fixed.

Two Base Gaskets (Click pictures for larger image if desired)

Exhaust at BDC


Intake at TDC and BDC
 
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Oh, I forgot about mentioning that I got my polish bars in. This is 3 stages, Rouge "rough", Black medium, and a white diamond/fine and a bit of hand finishing. I may have lied about not going for a mirror, but in my defense, it isn't perfectly smooth either. You can see some pits in there lol.

Polishedchamber.jpg


The piston crown will get the same treatment. May as well go crazy.
 
(Part 2)
Just to kind of break things up I am going to try and split this up a little. This next section is mainly going to be about the Transfers and their alignment.

To put it mildly, the transfers are a mess. Looking down the cylinder at BDC in this picture. You can kind of see the top of the lower edge of the upper transfers here. The piston Crown sticks above that a little bit, by a couple of millimeters. The sides and roof of the upper transfers are larger than the port cut into the iron sleeve. Amazingly well centered unlike the intake and exhaust, but leaving a 2-ish millimeter edge all around. That does mean some transfer duration can be recovered with just a bit of grinding, and the lip on the side means it is possible to play a little magic to try and angle the transfer charge more into the intake side instead of straight out, which is kind of nice. I need to look into some sort of right angle solution to be able to get in there better than my flex shaft will allow to really be able to do anything serious though. It's also worth noting that the cross hatch on the cylinder is pretty faint to non-existant as well, meaning this thing would have likely never sealed the rings. You can see how narrow that exhaust passage is too as a nice side bonus.


But wait! There's more!

The lower transfers! More specifically all of the alignment issues at the lower transfers... which is literally everything as far as I can tell.
Case to cylinder transfer alignment? The front side of both is actually pretty darn close, maybe the slightest bit of a lip, but not much. The gasket overhangs a bit though, so it needs a trim. The rear on both side is just a plethora of bad. Case to cylinder alignment is easily off 1/8th of an inch, but surprisingly the gasket lines up relatively well with the cylinder side. The iron sleeve cutaway for the transfers is smaller than the ports by quite a bit. I think it would be worth cutting it back to match the actual port width and trimming back the piston to match the sleeve. Maybe it wouldn't make much of a difference either. Who knows.



I will say this, the case for this engine is pretty beefy in terms of thickness, so it definitely has plenty of room to work with if you wanted to try a bit of case flowing.

Speaking of beefy cases, I do think this bottom end would be a decent platform to try a MS660 build with. The case opening for the jug and piston on this engine is 57.8mm, which means it can clear a 56mm big bore piston. The deck surface is pretty chunky as well. The only downside is, my theory about the stud pattern is wrong. Even though the spacing is 60mm, the holes would still need to be filled in and new holes drilled. This is more or less how the MS660 pattern lines up with the LD110 pattern, and as you can see, there is plenty of deck to work with. to do so.



And yes, it does indeed use a 12mm wrist pin and the exact same needle bearing as the new Phantom 85, so it can run most of those saw pistons.

I think the real question just comes down to how do I want to set this engine up. I kind of like the idea of having a lower RPM "chug-a-lug" tractor engine to contrast my Phantom. I think it would be interesting to have 2 engines of the same size with two completely different power curves.

My initial ideas are as follows.
Remove 2mm of that squish gap, pronto. Clean up and polish the combustion chamber and piston top. Both are quite rough textured.

Exhaust Timing - Aim for 80 BBDC/100 ATDC and 160 duration. I may pull that back a bit but that is kind of my generic figure for now.

Intake Timing - I am actually considering just leaving it alone and focusing on re-shaping the roof and floor to keep the flow even. This will probably add a bit more intake timing, which I would be ok with. I could probably add up to 10 degrees and still be ok. I would like to try and widen the port a hair as well. Also considering just running a windowed piston and reed. Neither are all that expensive, and are surprisingly off the shelf items.

Transfer Timing. - I hope that with removing the lips I can at least get the transfer duration to 110 degrees. A little more than that would be nice, but without the right tools to help maintain the roof angle it could prove problematic.

The above would give me 25 degrees of blowdown, which is a decent amount. This is why I may dial back the exhaust a couple of degrees and focus more on widening the port. That should aid flow while reducing the blowdown a bit.

This would all give the motor a funky combination of port timing and durations for the intake to be capable of slightly higher RPM. The blowdown also favors a higher peak RPM. The exhaust duration favoring slightly lower RPM, which somewhat cancels one another out. This is where being able to raise the transfer roof a bit would be really nice to try and bring that blowdown number down and transfer duration up. I think that would correct the biggest disparity in this engine in terms of power production (aside from the compression at least.

Oh, steel piston rings to go with the iron sleeve along with a proper cross hatch would probably be a good idea as well. I literally snapped both origina rings without even trying that hard. They were REALLY brittle and cheap. Thankfully, the MS380 piston I bought came with steel rings, and they are the exact same size.

I want to kind of aim this engine to have peak power around 5500-6500rpm and kind of lose steam around 7000-7500. I want and engine I can pull away at idle speed and it just goes. A "stump puller." This would also mean if I installed it on my bike to replace the Phantom, I would have a top speed of maybe 35-40mph, which wouldn't be bad. Trade speed I don't want for acceleration and climbing ability I do need. Sounds like a win.

I also think I am going to balance this crank as well. I may as well since I will have it apart. I think if I can make everything else flow well, the upper transfers having such low duration and hopefully make decent power.

Combine this engine with one of the longer header tube expansion chambers out there as well like the cheap MZ clones and I think I might just have a tractor engine on my hands.

This is meant to be an ongoing project thread to show the steps and work as I go, and to provide a good data source for any poor fool, or strange fool like me, that decided they like pain too. In all fairness, a 49mm big bore kit on a standard engine kit would probably make more power out of the box, and maybe the same power after I do all this work. The extra CC's are what I am after... all 9 of them lol.
I do welcome all opinions and suggestions on my thought process and plans, so feel free to chime in. Also open to possible suggestions for a right angle tool that takes dremel bits that might fit in there.
Nice report!!! Well maybe not nice, but all the info you provided is. An I thank you kindly good sir!!
 
Oh, I forgot about mentioning that I got my polish bars in. This is 3 stages, Rouge "rough", Black medium, and a white diamond/fine and a bit of hand finishing. I may have lied about not going for a mirror, but in my defense, it isn't perfectly smooth either. You can see some pits in there lol.

Polishedchamber.jpg


The piston crown will get the same treatment. May as well go crazy.
I like shiny!!!!!! SHINY SHINY SHINY!!!
 
Nice report!!! Well maybe not nice, but all the info you provided is. An I thank you kindly good sir!!
Thanks...? lol. I like to try and document things as much as possible. Makes for some long winded posts with lots of pictures and often a somewhat dry read, but who knows, maybe it may help somebody.
I like shiny!!!!!! SHINY SHINY SHINY!!!
Yeah, there is something satisfying about polishing metal. It's a little time consuming, but it makes the ADHD in my brain happy to have something to stare at.
Who is they? People always say " they" and I never met him/her yet.
You know... them.
 
Who is they? People always say " they" and I never met him/her yet.
You know... them.
Yep, they and them,...lol...those are the pronouns that a certain group of "Woke" people wish to be addresses by now instead of he and she...lol.

If that is part of what being "Woke" is all about, I think I will just stay asleep then...lol.
 
Thanks...? lol. I like to try and document things as much as possible. Makes for some long winded posts with lots of pictures and often a somewhat dry read, but who knows, maybe it may help somebody.

Yeah, there is something satisfying about polishing metal. It's a little time consuming, but it makes the ADHD in my brain happy to have something to stare at.

You know... them.
Not long winded, detailed. I like when there are lots of details. Never change the way you post. A lot of us here are looking for exactly what you post like. An we thank you for that good sir.
 
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