The Whizzer "Ambassador" is back!

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Dane,
I am not sure on the later version, but you should check the fender tab mount, because it really makes a mess when the tab breaks. The fender is mounted via a tab and two braces, when the tab breaks, the fender moves forward quickly, and can jam the fender between the frame and tire, the connector plug attaching the wiring won't even slow the fender down after the tab breaks [I had to replace the rear wiring harness the first time]. Go to the section about tabs on previous models on this site [it is a sticky] because the exact fix needed is discussed in detail. I have already replaced the fenders several times. DO NOT take anyones word that your tab is heavy enough, simply fix it yourself. The rear shocks on mine do not work at all, myself and 2 others pushed downward and the swing arm didn't move, must be for looks only. Maybe they are setup for a heavy rider [mine are set on the softest settings], but the springs look stronger than springs I ran on my 450 Ducati in the 70s. The bike does ride smoother, but mainly because of the weight [more than 50 pounds heavier than the NE5].
Have fun,
Quenton

 

[Egor]

Quenton - I wonder, what do you think now that you have had the bike for a while. Are you still happy with the machine? I think there is a chance that it is worth the money, if for the fact that it is a good mode of transportation. I am disappointed that it is aesthetically missing, I think a lot. The after section could have been made to look like a hard tail, with a single shock under the bike, Harley did it. I think it is wise to have parts that will function for both sides, but that is a little over the top for the rear fork. As I look at the shocks they are too close to the rear axle, if they were closer to the pivot point they probably would work even at the high spring rate. I dont understand the frame being so wide and with the hard cut off at the end, no finished look. I don't know who they have for there R&D but they need to consider letting them go. After seeing the last few attempts at making a landmark bike that would be worthy of the Whizzer name, they missed. In my opinion they are going to be in the history books again. I would love to work on that bike and show them what it should look like. Oh well. Have fun, Dave

PS: I am getting over the newness of my Green NE5. I am considering getting the Mushroom lifters, fixing the breather, that should finish all the short comings. Then putting it up for sale, I would not have the nerve to sell something that I knew would fail. I want the new owner to be able to just ride. The only thing is this thing uses oil like a pig. When I let it idle it just smokes. Worse than my two strokes.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Egor,
I stopped riding the Ambassador and it is sitting in the corner of my shop. It has 1500 miles on it, and I just got tired of fixing it every time I rode it. It was not too bad for the first 1000 miles, but I had to fix it every time I rode it [between 1000 and 1500 miles]. The last time I rode it I was thrilled I didn't have to repair anything, but when I put it on the side stand the TINY 6 mm bolt they use to secure the stand broke and the bike fell over. Just like a lot of things on the bike the design was poor, after all who would use such a small bolt to hold the side stand on. The ride is smooth, and the brakes work well [after replacing the pads and caliper], but the front brake pad wears at an angle due to the cable path. Because the bike is so heavy it really needs more power, and the drive ratios are somewhat off base. I changed mine and added more power to the motor, by simply cleanning up the ports, aligning the intake manifold, re-milling the head [original was cut at a 12 degree angle], reshaping the combustion chamber, throwing the leaky compression release in the trash, building a oil breather system that works, removing the lifters and re-worked them, and lowered the main jet size. I then changed the clutch ratios so that the motor wasn't hitting 6000 RPMs to go 40 MPH. The higher ratios make it take off slower but at least the motor isn't running at such a high speed when crusing. I wish Whizzer USA the best.

Have fun,
Quenton

 

[Egor]

I am curious to find out about the Salisbury drive they have added to the latest Ambassador. It will be interesting to hear about the performance. I think the extra size of the cover makes that side look bulky, not very appealing. I wonder why they did not consider the original two speed, it can't be still under patient. The other thing would be for us to be able to use it on our NE bikes. It's still hard to hear that someone is not enjoying there bike. It is amazing in a modern setting to have a mechanical device that is not performing as designed. A few modern improvements would be all that a timeless design would require! It can be done I pray that it will. Quinton did you need to move the ignition timing ahead on yours, that was the best improvement I did to the NE5. I moved it ahead till it exposed the original mounting hole. I wish you were closer we could get all the bugs out of that bike. I got to visit North Carolina a few years ago, I love the history and the coastline of the east coast. Have fun, Dave

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Egor,
Salsbury made the original automatic clutch for the vintage Whizzer company and was model #270 [Whizzers original part number was AC130]. Salsbury never made a CVT type drive for the Whizzer, but did make similar setups for their scooters. The company that made the original bi-matic for Whizzer I think was called Reef industries.
Terry McAlister is the leading authority on rebuilding the Bi-matic, and I rode his bike earlier this year at Dawson Springs, KY, and the bi-matic worked really well. I don't know why the new Whizzer company didn't re-make the Bi-matic, because it would have been a perfect setup.
Moving the timing to 23 BTDC helps, but mostly on the top end. If you move the plate forward untill the original hole is 1/2 covered it is 23 degees. The original setting is 14 BTDC, but on several of my special motors I can advance the timing to 40 BTDC. I had to make a special plate to allow the magnets in the flywheel to be in the correct position and advance the timing at the same time.

Have fun,
Quenton

 

[wavygravy]

does the ambasador have pedals? do you have to register it as a motorcycle? just curious!

 

[RdKryton]

does the ambasador have pedals? do you have to register it as a motorcycle? just curious!

No pedals and yes on registering. At least in Pa you have to register it as a motorcycle.

Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Motorcycle, but not legal in CA yet. Still trying to get CARB approval. Must have plates, insurance & MC endorsment in most states.

Have fun,
Quenton

 

[Egor]

Quinton - We called all CVT drives Salsbury drives, because of there similarities. Interesting to hear about the amount of advance you have introduced to the Whizzer engine. I have a couple of old flat head Fords in the garage to install in the Model A. I was reading about the amount of advance you can do. The more I read I found that if the engine has a poor combustion chamber, that is when you can keep moving it up. I built a 1925 Chevy 4 with a bunch of hotrod stuff on it, I have not run it yet but the head has a shrouded plug and that is another reason that you can move the ignition way up. I had the head off my whizzer and the combustion chamber is huge and has a lot of edges protruding out in the chamber, low compression gives you a lot of lea way. Have fun, Dave

PS: I think I will try and get mine up to about 29 degrees, I think that is a safe place.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

I know what you mean by calling all the CVTs "Salsbury Drives" because of the similarities. Whizzer has used several different combustion chambers in the NE head. Even the Ambassador has had at least 3 different heads that I know of. The first NE head wasn't too bad, and could be made to work well [68MPH]. The second edition was a real dog [looks like someone drunk designed it], sadly most of the motors & cylinder upgrade kits used this version. The less than stellar version was easy to spot by simply looking at the valve pockets in the head. If the corner rear head bolt holes had a "boss" that extended into the round valve pockets you could expect low power. If that head is milled at least .060", the copper head gasket installed, and little smoothing out of the combustion chamber the power would be increase by 1/3. Either the current edition or the early 2005 NE will add the most power, but both need milled and a little work blending the corners in the chamber. The average new Whizzer motor only checks at 80 to 85 pounds of compression, and runs really great with 115 to 120 pounds. Getting the compression up requires several steps, some easy, some not. After milling the head [don't be surprized to find the original head un-even], the valve seats need to be re-cut [on all the motors I have worked on, none had the valves seated]. In some cases the valve seats weren't cut at all from the factory and had sharp edges [no 45 degree cut]. After re-cutting the valve seats, simply lap the valves in with valve grinding compound [from NAPA, etc], install the valve springs the correct way [tight coils against the valve guides, not against the retaining washer]. Don't be surprized to find both springs installed wrong, or one one-way and the other installed differently, or in some cases a soft regular spring mixed with a progressive spring, etc. On all motors I service or upgrade I cut the seats with a NewWay tool, and lap the vlaves, then I liquid test [with gasoline] to make sure of a perfect seal. In fact I just finised cutting the seats in 4 cylinders earlier today, and just completed the painting & heat cure process.
The ignition advance is somewhat tricky to do because of the location of the sensor. I made a adjustable plate the moved the sensor from the location between the belt guard mounting posts. I also moved the trigger plate on the flywheel to mate with the new location of the sensor, but caution must be observed because of the location of the magnets in the flywheel, because it is possible to lose the fire [or weaken it] if out of sync.

Have fun,
Quenton