The YD100

Just got the YD100, don't want it to be stuck at a permanent 35, so i'm gonna do 2 break in tanks and not go past 1/2 throttle. The motor just came in today and I got the top end on and torqued down. Cant wait to see how its going to do! Going to put it on a bike today, keep you all updated, the rain stops in 20 so I gotta wait, then my buddy is on his way and were gonna get to work!

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

That tensioner on top will cause you a headache later, The torque from the engine will pull it into the wheel. It needs to be on the bottom to catch the slack of the chain with no pressure on it!

there is 2

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

If you are going to run the tensioner like that, you need to get some ultra hard skateboard wheels, with double bearings, some abec 5 or better. It will rob power in that configuration, and the wheel will wear out. Those cheap wheel guides will blow fast with all that stress. The bearings are junk when loaded. At least with the skate wheel and the abec 5 or better bearings, you'll reduce the amount it steals, and it will last a lot longer. Try to snag some buddies used skate wheels and bearings for now and fab something up. A bolt and some spacers with a lock nut and the skate wheel with a channel carved lightly into the wheel for the chain to ride in. Or put it on the bottom side. I do see the problem though, the bar is in the way.

If you can get a whole ground out truck ( the axle assembly on a skateboard is a called a truck, for those who are wondering what a truck is) from them, you could make a chain guide with it some how.

i hit 42 at half freaking throttle with it on.

 

[Karl Snarl]

You be careful now, ya hear. If that cheap guide wheel up top lets the chain hop, it will bind in the cog, locking up the back tire. Get a hard skate board wheel and some abec 5 ( preferably a 9, but whooowee those are pricey). Just use a bolt, and some small washers/rim bushings as spacers. Take and put it in your drill and slowly grind channel in the middle for the chain to ride. It will put up with a lot more than the bearing on that yellow wheel.

Thats pretty fast yo, welcome to the 40's club!

 

[Chainlube]

Just don't be surprised if one of them takes out a few of your spokes, that's all.

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

You be careful now, ya hear. If that cheap guide wheel up top lets the chain hop, it will bind in the cog, locking up the back tire. Get a hard skate board wheel and some abec 5 ( preferably a 9, but whooowee those are pricey). Just use a bolt, and some small washers/rim bushings as spacers. Take and put it in your drill and slowly grind channel in the middle for the chain to ride. It will put up with a lot more than the bearing on that yellow wheel.

Thats pretty fast yo, welcome to the 40's club!

I will, this was my first time going 40. after break in im hoping for fifty when i can finally go full throttle, porting really does help, sometimes after break in people say the yd100 with 36T maxes at 38

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

Okay so I've been riding the piss out of it to break it in, I ran over to my buddy's house this morning so we could ride to school together, but the yd had a real rough start for some reason. So on a turn of events, the motor was doing it's rough starting then the wheel slipped cause of the rain and my motor chain popped off (a link came off but not the master link?)
Anyway, we were just getting started thank God so I brought the bike to his house, parked her, then he had to give me a ride to school on his moped. Probably has something to do with the tensioner wheel? I got a skateboard wheel though so that's good. Tell me what y'all think, and how to fix that rough start it's so bad everything shakes and jitters. Also how do I keep my seat from vibrating back down? I get it as tight as I can even with a hammer but then it just vibrates down.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Use real rough sand paper on the seat post or spray a little spray paint ( doesnt matter color or kind, it will act as glue) on the seat post before you slide it in and lock it down.

Rough start is probably a tad lean. Ik on my bikes ( most I run a tad rich) they pop off during spring summer and fall no choke, only need choked in winter. I just roll a few feet clutch out and vroom she fires up. At most a tiny tink of the throttle for some extra air, and they fire off.

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

Use real rough sand paper on the seat post or spray a little spray paint ( doesnt matter color or kind, it will act as glue) on the seat post before you slide it in and lock it down.

Rough start is probably a tad lean. Ik on my bikes ( most I run a tad rich) they pop off during spring summer and fall no choke, only need choked in winter. I just roll a few feet clutch out and vroom she fires up. At most a tiny tink of the throttle for some extra air, and they fire off.

No like by rough start I mean the bike shakes so freaking much, it tanks back and forth. It starts fuel wise like a charm

 

[mony0_3]

Re-torque your engine mount bolts.

 

[CrispyLeaves98]

Re-torque your engine mount bolts.

could it have anything to do with cylender head torque? The engine does not shake AT ALL the bike does, its down tight