Thick Spokes

[GoldenEagleChris]

I am looking at several companies to purchase a .105g thick spoke rim.

GEBE is the front runner for $145 but those guys over there are telling me their rim only supports a gear pack of 5 6 7 speeds ect.

My bike is a single speed freewheel. But when I asked them if my freewheel would work they couldn't give me a straight answer.

They said either a cassette rim or a coaster brake....

Any suggestions?

PS I would rather not have to pay over $100 for a bicycle rim but **** there is nothing affordable on the internet.

WTF....it's the INTERNET!!!!

Any links or info would be much appreciated....

 

[Goat Herder]

Dunno this might help? http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=35242

 

[GoldenEagleChris]

Naa it did not help. I already read that thread. I read a lot of these threads before posting.

It seems like out of all the threads regarding thick spokes, the only options are:

GEBE for $145, which, if you bust 1 freggin spoke you have to buy a whole new wheel cuz those genius' over there don't sell individual spokes.

You can drop $190 with Wheel Master (Really? $190) and I gotta ship him my rim? --F that!!!!

You can pay $65 for a "low quality chinese" rim.

or Kill myself


The biggest problem for me is that all the OTHER options only come with a coaster brake, I need a freewheel threaded hub...


Ummmmm. Really? Is this really all my options? Unreal, The back wheel costs half as much as my motor system and twice as much as my entire bike.

I still dont believe these guys are my only options.....


So would the consensus be unless I buy my own hubs and rims and spokes and lace it myself Im Fu@ked?

Where's my shotgun....

 

[sparky]

I just laced AND trued my first wheel, all in one shot the other day.

All I did was watch the guys at the bicycle shop... specifically how they paid attention to the tension at the "last" intersection before meeting the rim. Put all the spokes in the hub. Started at the valve hole and laced 1/4th the spokes, just like my example rim. Then the other 1/4th on that same side. Then I did the right side the same way. After I got the spoke threads covered by the nipple, I just went along one side, feeling at that last intersection until they just felt the same tension as the example rim. Then I did the right side.

It looked like it had a wobble when I tried to spin it on a screwdriver, but as soon as I actually put the bearings & axle in the hub... the thing was PERFECTLY true. I couldn't believe it, but that's what happened. It's not as hard as one might think. But I liked the sound of 10 ga. spokes, myself, so I still sent it off to the Wheelmaster to get drilled. Don't want to mess with this wheel for the rest of my life, and, luckily, the Wheelmaster offers a lifetime warranty (plus my custom hub is made of steel, so I couldn't drill that easily).

ANYWAY.... you just said you wanted a rim. Would a 16" rim suffice?

If you'd like a 26" wheel, perhaps this could help...

http://www.custommotoredbicycles.co...icycle_wheels_12_g_12_gauge_spokes_discbrakes

Or this...

http://www.custommotoredbicycles.co...icycle_wheels_26_inch_x_2125_assembled_in_usa

Wonder why the U.S.A. one is $1 cheaper. Hmm.....

I'm also wondering why that bearing cone nut is so long. I guess it's for a cassette, as well? I thought the threads would be a bit longer, but OK.

I guess you'd need to measure your chainline to see if it would work. How far is the crank sprocket away from the center of the bottom bracket? That's how far the freewheel needs to be from the center of the hub (where the ends are the bearing cone nuts, not the spoke hole flanges).

Anyway, good luck... $40 for the brand name hub that you NEED, $40 for a brand name double wall rim, and $40 for some spokes.... is really not a bad deal.

 

[bairdco]

i can build you one. i'm in costa mesa. i sent you a pm.