Thread-Lock Question

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by PocketBiker, Apr 5, 2015.

  1. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Tomorrow, I return home from work and will begin my final week of work on my bike before I fire it up for a test drive. I've read, usually in bold type, that it's a good idea to thread-lock nuts and bolts. So, before I take her out, I would like to know more specifically which bolts should be thread-locked?? There is also the question of red, blue and even the green (which, I understand, can be applied to threads after the nut is cinched down) We've got everything from the cylinder head studs to the engine mount U-bolts, and everything in between. I know my China Girl will be a virtual "vibrating machine" (especially, during the break-in period)

    In some cases, it may be best to not thread-lock certain bolts, so periodic adjustments can be made??

    So, if some of you could enlighten me as to which bolts should be thread locked, as well as ones that shouldn't........ that would really be helpful.


  2. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    I never recommend loctite on anything from the kit - all the things that get loose during first few weeks of use are due to the cheap bolts stretching, rather than due to the nuts spinning loose. These need to be torqued & re-torqued as they stretch.

    Things on the bike itself, like fender mounts and chain guards that come loose due to vibration, are usually best served by adding a second nut to lock the first, since these usually have very few threads engaged for the loctite to work on.
  3. Timbone

    Timbone Active Member

    Tighten up your motor mounts until the engine WILL NOT MOVE. Red thread lock them!

    Magneto cage bolts = blue thread lock

    Clutch cover bolts = blue thread lock

    Drive sprocket case - blue thread lock

    Rag joint. If you are using nylock nuts, no thread lock is necessary. Regular nuts = blue thread lock.

    Exhaust bolts = red thread lock

    Clutch handle bolt = blue thread lock.

    This is no brainer stuff. My first build caused me all sorts of trouble simply because bolts kept loosening - usually at the most inopportune time and in the most inopportune place. This has made my ride so much more reliable!

  4. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    the only thing you shouldn't put loctite on is the head studs
  5. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Every kit I've checked has finger tight head why wouldn't you locktite...(heat?)
  6. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Thanks Timbone,

    It may be "no brainer" stuff, but I appreciate having is spelled out, item by item. I have the red and blue, so I'll probably ride for an hour or two, then check the tightness of the nuts and bolts..... then, thread-lock them.
  7. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    you can put it in the case side if you like but it's not necessary. you don't want to put it on the nut side because you only want around 5 foot pounds on the studs and around 15 foot pounds on the nuts, so if the loctite starts to set before the nuts are sufficiently tightened you'll either strip or punch through the case.

    I bottom out the case studs and then back them off a full turn when I install them
    Timbone likes this.