Tinker Time ......

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Island Racer, May 30, 2016.

  1. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    Hi Guys,
    After fitting the motor and actually running the bike with your help I started " tinkering " as we do in our " man-caves " so my first project is to make a better clamp on the rear sprocket, NOT attaching to the spokes ... works perfect ... now the chain is touching the rear tire so I will install 9 small spacer bushings and longer bolts with lock-nuts including loctite ...

    the Axel size will vary for your bike so diameter / with is variable
    Then the 9 hole i did not specify PCD coz maybe different models have different PCD's and I just drilled the same as the sprocket .... easy as pie ...

    The clamping I did not do 4 bolts, 2 was enough ....

    IMG20160530131439.jpg IMG20160331105529.jpg IMG20160331105537.jpg

  2. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Looks like that saved you a lot of money over the maniac mechanic adapters which are almost 80$ with a sprocket.
    Did you take a peice of flat steel and bend it to get it to look like that or did you weld it?
  3. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    No mate, just took a schedule pipe and welded that on a ring with the holes already drilled ...

    Then machined the inside / hecksaw it in 2 piece Then welded the "ears" on it and done ...

    It cost me 30 $ i know a bit much but I needed it done ...
  4. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    Actually a cheaper way is to use the 2 half rings supplied with the sprocket.... but I think the ID was to big ... if you have a welder in the house then you can make everything yourself and only pay for the machining job .... then just hecksaw it after that and weld the "ears" on it ....
  5. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    30$ isn't bad for that really, it would be cool if you could get it to work like the manic mechanic adapters that have a "quick release" sprocket that comes off with only like 3 bolts. Great first design!
  6. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    I googled mechanic adapter.... good one .... yeah ... 3x or 4x m8 bolt would be enough... your right....

    But I wanted to create a design that still "locks" onto the spokes and actually is bolted to the HUB so it is DOUBLE UP ... so to speak.... if one Slip's then you still have the other .... so with 3 bolt's that wouldn't work..... I think
    And if I used only 3 holes it would look funny not using the rest of the original sprocket holes ?

    Keep on tinkering.... I'm already doing the next 2 tinker projects
    Ha ha ha
    Last edited: May 30, 2016
  7. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    Today I made the bike idle correctly... after reading some very helpful posts.... now when I accelerate some 4-stroking is there .... I'll read some more ....

    Love this bike ... only getting better

    Have a good day ...
  8. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    Coz it's a new motor and it is "cheap" I thought to try this



    This is a very controversial topic !!

    I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying this method
    to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.

    Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the owner's manual method, and the news of their success is spreading rapidly.

    The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.

    The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other break-in articles
    written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.

    Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete.

    The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
    newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.

    In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
    due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

    The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
    technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
    involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.

    With that in mind ...

    Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet !!

    How To Break In Your Engine For
    More Power & Less Wear !

    One of the most critical parts of the engine building process is the break in !!
    No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up toyou !!

    Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
    these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

    Streetor RaceMotorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
    even Lawn Mowers !!

    ( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. )

    These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic
    composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles.

    What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ?? The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

    Why ??
    Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

    If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
    How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
    PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
    Of course it can't.
    How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

    From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
    the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
    The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
    The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

    There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

    If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

    Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
    which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

    An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

    Last edited: May 31, 2016
  9. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    I've used that method for several bikes lol

    My philosophy? Giver' hell!!! :D
    What it does is it caramelizes the rings and let's them sink into the piston. Just pick a large hill and keep going up and down with full throttle but don't let the engine revv too much above
    3-4Rpms do that for about 2-3 tanks. You should be good after this
    Island Racer likes this.
  10. zippinaround

    zippinaround Active Member

    Great idea to make your own think i may try this thanks for sharing
    Island Racer likes this.
  11. David Bogle

    David Bogle Member

    Looks like I just found a new use for my harbor freight flat stock bender
  12. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    14705505322991819319526.jpg I did not have time before to finish the bike properly, but now I made a new motor mount, it looks like it will work good, got a few more pictures for next week ...


    Last edited: Aug 7, 2016
  13. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    Let's start why I had to make this:

    The M6 bolts in the front of the motor broke off, the rear engine mounting M6 bolts were bent

    So I extracted the 2 broken bolts and tapped all 4 mounting bolts to M8

    Last edited: Aug 6, 2016
  14. Island Racer

    Island Racer Member

    And here is the end result