Tips I've learned from many builds-great newbie read.

[toojung2die]

These are the best lock washers I've ever used for "mission critical" applications.

 

[DieselTech]

These are the best lock washers I've ever used for "mission critical" applications.

View attachment 164327

Being a certified diesel tech, I've never seen these b4, sweet setup for a lock washer. Boy they dont give them washers away, everything I found was priced at $8 for 2 washers. Great setup thou. Thanks

 

[Chop-chop]

These work under the same principle as the 'top hat' style locking nuts used in high temp exhaust manifold applications, however the draw back is they are 'single-use', as soon as you loosen them off they will need to be replaced.

 

[Mossy]

Safety wire works wonders... Aircraft instrument cluster bolts...

 

[Wrench]

What about the "cone" shaped "spring" washers? Not easy to find but I hear they are good for the head bolts.

I just noticed this post.
IMO I don't think a cone washer would be necessary. A hardened flat washer would be fine
It's not so much the head bolt or nut coming loose It's that the cheep China aluminum shrinks under the washer from being torqued down, causing the bolt or nut to loose their torque.
Tip: Never re torque a head when the engine is hot always wait until the engine is cold or ya might strip out threads

 

[toojung2die]

Tip: Never re torque a head when the engine is hot always wait until the engine is cold or ya might strip out threads

Here's one for ya; should the head bolts/studs be left dry or use anti-seize on them?

 

[Wrench]

Here's one for ya; should the head bolts/studs be left dry or use anti-seize on them?

Use blue Loctite on the stud to case threads. Loctite really don't help on the nuts but guys use it anyways
IMO ya shouldn't use Loctite on the nuts because ya run the risk of backing out the stud from the case when ya take the head off

 

[Chop-chop]

Use blue Loctite on the stud to case threads. Loctite really don't help on the nuts but guys use it anyways
IMO ya shouldn't use Loctite on the nuts because ya run the risk of backing out the stud from the case when ya take the head off

That exactly what I always do - applying loctite when I thread the studs into the case and simply torque the head nuts to the correct torque setting, this way, like you said, won't un-thread the studs out of the case the next time you undo the head nuts...

 

[dumpdriver]

I also have found that a racing head makes tons of difference. The fins are much better for cooling and the aluminum will not warp like the chinesium does. I have one that I used linked, it made a ton of difference on hills. I also noticed improved compression and power

https://amzn.to/3HJkIP8- 50$ Here is the link to the head that I use. I also attached some others that I didn't trust as much, but they are cheaper
https://amzn.to/3bqwxhj 43$

https://amzn.to/39JT1JE 36$ (much better fins than stock, but chinesium rather than milled aluminium)

 

[Wrench]

I also have found that a racing head makes tons of difference. The fins are much better for cooling and the aluminum will not warp like the chinesium does. I have one that I used linked, it made a ton of difference on hills. I also noticed improved compression and power

https://amzn.to/3HJkIP8- 50$ Here is the link to the head that I use. I also attached some others that I didn't trust as much, but they are cheaper
https://amzn.to/3bqwxhj 43$

https://amzn.to/39JT1JE 36$ (much better fins than stock, but chinesium rather than milled aluminium)

Yeah, Aluminum Billet head wont shrink like a cast one will