Tips I've learned from many builds-great newbie read.

[Skyliner70cc]

Isoult, sorry to hear you were having issues. Glad to have you onboard of a member and hope your experience with motorbikes allows your to share your knowledge with us too.

BTW, I lost count of how many bikes I built. For about 4 1/2 years I was building 3-4 a month and selling them. I knew we were in trouble in our economy when I sold my last build in late 2008 but Ill be honest, I don't put much effort in selling them anymore either as I did before.

 

[lsoult]

I've seen all the posting you do. A BIG Thanks- to you and everyone else that likes to help the new guys.

 

[gia]

Thanks to everyone, especially Skyliner, for the great lists & tips. I do have to admit, you all lost me on the oil debate, so I hope that buying a good quality 2 cycle (non-marine) oil will suffice.

With all of this great information and the fact my memory isn't as good as it once was, I've now started a Word document to keep it all together, along with my other info about prices, websites, companies with bad reviews, companies with good ones...and the 1001 other tidbits of advice I've found here in the past month I've been lurking.

All of you are providing a HUGE service to the newbies that come along in search of information about how to build themselves a motorized bicycle!

 

[adrian101]

may i add: remove clutch cover (drive cog side) and check that the nut holding the drive cog on is correctly tight.

I have had the nut on my new engine come off causing my wheel to lock up. I now need a new rear wheel and chain.

Make sure to double check everything on the drive cog side. I can't stress that enough. Don't end up face down on the ground due to that drive cog. It hurts! lol

 

[cdevidal]

Where's the best place(s) to source the parts listed in the first/followup posts? I'm not sure where to begin.

 

[spmspeeder]

Great tips for a first timer

Wow, thanks for posting this information. It will become part of my build procedure.

Great stuff,
....Sean

 

[danlandberg]

Adrian: How did you run your clutch cable on the blue bike? Did you use a roller set up? I have had to run a roller set up when using the billet intake. And have had to run the x-chamber down under the bike. But I mostly build using mountain bike style frames. The next build I'll be trying one of the new frames w/built in tank. (Have you seen those? and if so what do you think?) I do like the X-chamber being an up pipe instead of a down pipe. Good looking bikes you've got!

 

[jeffuehrer]

Mounting an engine on a bike without a 75° angle.

I recently had my engine's rear mounting bolts snap off at the casting. I successfully extracted the left bolt but I had to drill and tap the right side - For some reason all the bolts on the right side of most of my engines have needed to be double nutted. (more vibration?) - I used the stock size (6mm) of the left bolt except in Grade 8 steel. (Ace IS the place). The optimal size for this bike is 3" but as you can see in the photo it is considerably longer. For the right side I (some friends from work and I) tapped it out with a 1/4" - 20 and I found the perfect size bolt at you know where. I applied blue loc-tite to the threads then let it sit for a few hours then I threw some washers and lock nuts to the base to reinforce it. (not really sure if it will help or hurt but thought I'd give it a try) I let it sit overnight and mounted everything (see pictures). I used two back mounting plates so that the swivel and position of the plates would cup the frame. I took it out and it performed well with less vibration then the stock set-up. I reset the trip setting so I'll see if it lasts longer than the stock set-up of 400 miles. If this set-up works it will make life a lot easier for those of us with bikes that don't have a 75° angle.

 

[toojung2die]

You are not square to the seat tube. I see an angle off the 90 degrees required between the engine mount and the tube. That's the most important connection to the bike frame. Mount the engine on the seat tube so there's no gaps. Modify the front mount to adjust for the difference in tube angle. Get the back mount square and tight to the frame first.

 

[jeffuehrer]

Mounting UPDATE

I recently had my engine's rear mounting bolts snap off at the casting. I successfully extracted the left bolt but I had to drill and tap the right side - For some reason all the bolts on the right side of most of my engines have needed to be double nutted. (more vibration?) - I used the stock size (6mm) of the left bolt except in Grade 8 steel. (Ace IS the place). The optimal size for this bike is 3" but as you can see in the photo it is considerably longer. For the right side I (some friends from work and I) tapped it out with a 1/4" - 20 and I found the perfect size bolt at you know where. I applied blue loc-tite to the threads then let it sit for a few hours then I threw some washers and lock nuts to the base to reinforce it. (not really sure if it will help or hurt but thought I'd give it a try) I let it sit overnight and mounted everything (see pictures). I used two back mounting plates so that the swivel and position of the plates would cup the frame. I took it out and it performed well with less vibration then the stock set-up. I reset the trip setting so I'll see if it lasts longer than the stock set-up of 400 miles. If this set-up works it will make life a lot easier for those of us with bikes that don't have a 75° angle.

Well, It turns out that the right threaded rod was a low grade steel and lasted a mere 19 miles. The right bolt broke off at the inner tube bracket. The nuts tightened to the casting prevented the left bolt from breaking off flush or inside the casting saving the hassle of bolt extraction. I was able to take out both bolts from the engine quite easily. I then went to the place that is and picked up some automotive mounting studs in 1/4" - 20 (1/2") 1/4" - 28 (2") for a total length of 2.5". I adjusted the angle of the mounting (pics attached) and tightened everything down. The top part of the casting is .5" from the frame and the bottom is 11/16 from the frame so it still isn't completely parallel to the frame. So far i've ridden 23 miles without any snafus. I did however have to readjust my carb (needle setting, idle screw) and chain tensioner (raised wheel, shimmed). I also included a pic of the angle we're dealing with. Any advise would be welcome. (FYI - I don't have a garage, car, shed, yard, carport, welder, or vise. (except riding <img src="http://www.motoredbikes.com/images/smilies/set12_b/grin.gif"><img/>)