TIPS - other things that might help



spunout said:
hi, ducky. yes, it's just like that. :) dont engage the clutch to get moving from a standstill like a motorcycle. if you do, you'll burn up your clutch :( . You'll need to pedal a few cranks to get some forward momentum, then release the clutch. Unlike motorcycles, because they have a nuetral gear, these clutch levers come with a push-pin, that allows the bike motor to stay running without having to hold the lever in by hand. Just pull in lever, and push down on the pin.(some kits have a different set-up, but you'll figure it out) to release, simply pull lever in all the way, and the pin will release itself.


clutch cable adjuster on engine:

srdavo said:
dr_clabo said:
Anybody else tinker or adjust the angle?

I don't tighten the nut on the adjuster until it finds its own "comfort zone".
and sometimes not at all.....where's it gonna go?


lotsa_mpg said:
I notice lots of talk about broken mounting studs. They can be quite miserable to remove even before they break, let alone when they are broken off flush with the crankcase surface. I'm sure there's been lots of tips already submitted on various ways of removing broken studs. There are occaissions though, when a person may want to remove an undamaged stud with the intention of reusing it. No doubt, most people know how to do so without resorting to vice grips and marking up the stud. But I realize there are some people in here who are a bit new to mechanical things, so I just thought I'd tell how I do it. Find two nuts that fit the threads of the stud. Screw both on as far as they will go. Using two wrenches, tighten the nuts firmly against each other. With a small torch or heat gun, apply a bit of heat to the crankcase area where the stud is screwed into....Don't get real carried away with the only need to warm it enough to get any locktite product warm enough to loose it's retaining abilities (the heat will also expand the aluminum slightly which helps too). Then put a wrench on the nut that is nearest to the crankcase and turn it to loosen the stud from the engine. If both nuts spin on the stud, you didn't tighten them against each other enough.



MotorbikeMike said:
I saw Noobies scrambling around trying to figure out how to adjust the clutch cable, so I'll share my favorite way.
Release whatever latch system you have. Use the large diameter spring it is your heat shield.
Remove the small diameter stiff spring and save it. (I have a bunch of them and cannot figure out what I'm saving them for)
Go get some "Hemostats" or small needle-nose vise-grips.
AFTER you have lubed that cheap chinese inner cable, then pull it snug with the little brass cable-lock up against the arm, and clamp it.
Check the whole blessed mess to be sure that all slack is removed uptop and along the way (ie no binging of the ends of the sheath not seated in the sockets).
If all is well tighten the screw. Ride it a bit, come back to work-center, and retighten the lil screw.


V 35

Local time
8:47 AM
Aug 27, 2010
Those Brass Clutch Cable stops are pure cheese, use a Brake Cable Pinch Bolt,
Cheaper, and tougher. If the wire ends are frayed a bit, coat with epoxy glue,
when dry, put an automotive vacuum cap over the glue ball. Don't let sharp wires cut your leg.