Tires TIRES

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http://www.marathonind.com/solid.html I have not tried these yet but from what I have heard they are wonderful........(BAMA if you are going to FLA lol)
They are a little high on the money side but it beats that green stuff that shoots all over you and your bike and is impossible to clean off and dose not work.

Also if you have to change your tube make sure to double gasket the rim if you are over 200 pounds trippel the gasket one of the guys I know had about a dz holes on the inside of his tube.

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Tire

call the Marathon dudes they might have the size you need this is an old lynk and they have an 800 # I think

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Schwalbe has a website, you can order their tires right off there (most shops--even online ones--don't carry all the different types and sizes). I (in the US) ordered some and they shipped out of somewhere in Canada (took a couple weeks as I recall).
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I do not know anything about the foam-filled tires posted in the OP--but I have seen these types of tires elsewhere, and they are strictly for low-speed use. At high speeds they suffer high internal temperatures and break down.

I don't know if half the weight of a bicycle and rider at 35 mph is enough to do that, but i know that's why cars don't use them.
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you might be interested in this... "nu-teck" solid tires, they may be the same ones marathon offers.

http://www.nu-teck.com

high-speed and extreme conditions are specifically addressed, the 26 X 2.0 (HP) looks pretty good, they might be worth checking out.
 
If any newcomers come into this topic, I can make the following advise, based on what I've figured out using Golden Eagle "over the back tire" mount, using the stock $12 Pyramid tires that my bike shop has on the shelf.

1. The higher speeds wear holes in the rubber gasket covering the spoke ends, so tape three or four layers over those spoke ends for prevention. On GEBE this is especially true on the rear tire, the front gaskets seem less affected, but I tape them anyway. I've never had a flat on the front yet.

2. Slime tubes ($6-8) won't stop a leak, but they do seem to hold air a lot longer. Industrial tubes ($12 or so) are NOT worth the price, weigh 3 or 4 pounds & don't pack neatly for spares.

3. Reinforcing the inside of the tire with doubled duct tape or $10 Huffy Tire liners gives peace of mind. The rear tire wears twice as fast as the front, but you can rotate them with the front to even out that wear factor.

4. I calculate maybe 3,000 miles is the limit of a $12 Pyramid standard cruiser tire, am interested if these better tires mentioned above have any better performance. Either way, money is not the question, it the hassle of fixing a flat on the road that you want to prevent.

5. The main cause of tire wear is "bad road shoulders", so on the Florida trip I hit one of the worst right off the bat, causing me to switch the rear tire on the second day.
On the Colorado jaunt, everything was great until I hit a southbound "under construction" leg headed toward El Dorado, Arkansas, and I did the front/back tire rotation to finish the trip. But I never had to add air because of the "slime tubes".
 
Resurrecting the Tale of the Tire

Because, now having the power of "collage" and "mapmaking", I was able to tell WHY I EMPHASIZE TIRE REINFORCEMENT.

Rif posted a "Washington State" story, which had similar "tire woes", and under that post, I gave my tire experience.

I'm halfway through the "baby goat" arrivals, (41 kids on the ground since Christmas, and the full moon should speed up the remaining nannies), so I will lazily put the link here for anybody wanting to see why tire reinforcing is important to MORE enjoyable rides:

http://www.motor-bicycles.com/viewtopic.php?p=2858#2858
 
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