Titan Rack Kit, is a freewheel sprocket worth it?

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by skyl4rk, Aug 30, 2009.

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  1. skyl4rk

    skyl4rk Guest

    Compared to the bolt on sprocket on the rear wheel spokes, is a freewheel sprocket like the Grubee wheel going to improve the ride quality with my Titan rack kit?

    I have to believe that coasting down will be much quieter and smoother.

    My spoke mount sprocket is a little off center and it works best when the chain is slightly loose. It is several years old now. It actually works pretty good but you can hear that it is off a bit.

    I am just wondering how much benefit there would be to a freewheel sprocket connected directly to the wheel hub.

  2. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    It sure makes a difference on those occasions when you have to pedal.
  3. There's very little drag. On my cvt because that puppy does have drag I've put on a freewheel sprocket to the jackshaft. It's a 16t. To match it to the 5:1 gearbox you'll need a 16t output sprocket to replace the 10t. But really that 5:1 gearbox leaves little drag you can still pedal the bike quite easily with the engine off. If you really need to pedal long distances like in the off chance you ran out of gas or something you can also just remove the little sprocket that drives the engine to the jackshaft. Loosen the engine bolts,tilt the engine,chain comes right off. Simple side of the road thing.
  4. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Is it worth it...........i think so.

    TREEWK Member

    I Really Like My Ride Side Drive Titan Cvt Builds With The Free Wheels. You Can Even Let The Engine Idle While You Pedal For The Man. Lol, Ron

    Attached Files:

  6. chrisnbush

    chrisnbush Member

    Coasting downhile with a DAXTitan rear / rack mount - no freewheel sprocket necessary


    Hey, this is a little obvious, but I am going to post it anyway.

    If I slow way down at the top of a hill with the throttle completely at idle, then start to coast down the hill, the centrifugal clutch is not engaged, and does not engage - and I can coast at high speed just fine without turning off the engine.

    I guess normally, as the engine is reved above idle the clutch pads are engaged with the drum, whetever it is, so that the drum is driving the engine - as long as the bike is moving fast, the pads stay engaged, regardless of how much throttle I am giving the engine.

    Not worth it to slow down to "set up" for this for small hills, but sure is for big ones. The only worry is to be SURE not to give the motor any gas when I am coasting, or it will engage, and if I am doing 42 mph it is gonna put some serious torque on the strap.

    Hey, maybe I will sell this gizmo on ebay :evilgrin:

  7. skyl4rk

    skyl4rk Guest

    What are the options for freewheels? My goal is to be able to coast easily when I let off the throttle, or when pedaling with no throttle.

    Freewheel on the wheel sprocket
    One way bearing on the jackshaft output gear
    One way bearing on the jackshaft input gear

    Which of these will work?

    What are some of the options that work well?
  8. chrisnbush

    chrisnbush Member

    Here would be a complete jackshaft freewheel solution from Staton IF

    the jackshaft were 5/8". Dave Staton sent this info to me, it is a 14 tooth freewheel, and a threaded adapater (to be able to mount it on the keyed shaft), and the keyed 5/8" shaft (sold by the inch). This would gear me down (I think) on the input side of the jackshaft considerably, but we have a lot of hills here.

    No picture of the shaft, am wondering if the key way would interfere with the bearings ? If they sell it by the inch, does the key way extend the whole length of the shaft, or can you get it just on the end, like you would need ?

    Moot point anyway, as at least by my measurement the titan jackshaft is 1/2 ". BUT I am thinking I might be able to drill out the jackshaft bearings to 5/8 " ? Anyone done this ?

    I know other people have put freewheels on the jackshaft, but I haven't been able to get anyone to tell me the source for these. Hey, if I find something out about stuff like this, I am pretty good at sharing it...

    Here are the Staton links anyway ->


    Last edited: Sep 29, 2009
  9. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    It would be better to have the freewheel on the wheel, so when you're pedaling, you don't have to turn the chain to the motor.
  10. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    I'm interested in a freewheel that attaches to the 5:1 gearbox as well.

    If I'm understanding, the adapter you have found is larger than the 5:1 gearbox's output shaft?? So the only way to connect them is by welding??

    I've seen a couple mentions of ways to turn this 5:1 gearbox into a freewheeling output sprocket... but they all just seem to be rumors.
  11. TREEWK

    TREEWK Member


    I`m thinking i posted the bearing number to go from 1/2" id to 5/8" id in lowriders rim to rim belt drive, a current active thread. The bearing is 1&3/8" od.

    If the wheel has a freewheel bearing and the engine goes to idle speed, the chain will stop and the clutch will release because the clutch springs will release the drum.

    I have entertained the idea of a build like my rack mounted cvt right hand drive using the dual freewheels, but substituting the 5:1 reverse rotation neat little ger box. Used the 5:1 box in my diy shifter bike and my diy rear axle mount.

    Am not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the freewheel on the gear box. But will help if able.

    Have fun, "git-er done" as Larry says. Ron

    Attached Files:

  12. sparky

    sparky Active Member


    Are you using a left-hand freewheel on the setup in those pics?? ... or are you just dealing with the drag??

    The dual freewheel w/ 5:1 gearbox is the "ultimate setup"... but the reason I'm asking about the freewheel being added to the gearbox shaft is for the Nuvinci hub. That sprocket is fixed, and I don't believe it's possible to add an engine freewheel to that hub.

    Hence, me trying to adapt a freewheel for the 5:1 gearbox, similar to how Staton's gearbox has a freewheel.
  13. TREEWK

    TREEWK Member


    Yes the wheel had a lefthand freewheel sprocket on it. The complete bicycle was an electric model I bought on Craigs list for $50. It is called a cartridge motor, not a hub motor in the spokes.

    Removed the electric motor, drilled 5 holes in the electric motor mount and bolted the 5:1 box on with a 12 tooth 1/2" pitch on the gear box for bmx chain (or ht chain).

    Then had a machinist enlarge the center hole of a 48 tooth ht sprocket to fit fit the freewheel sprocket hub snugly. The sprockets ligned up easily and runs like a charm accept for the carb proplem with the poor gas we get.

    It is geared close to 18:1 final ratio and runs at 35 mph with a gps street pilot. 180 lb rider on flat blacktop rd. The motor is a 49cc 2 stoke.

    Very easy to install on any bike, dual suspension etc. Have not done any riding since last year, but looking forward to it as the weather cools.

    Did look at the nuvinci blue prints a couple years ago but don`t remember if it freewheels. Some members are happy with theirs.

    It looked a little strange as i was building it, but it grew on me fast as we rode it. Very satisfied with the performance.. My intend was to build a nice functioning dependable affordable mab and keep the price down. As the motor sits above the axle it woud be easy to conceal in a basket type cover. Did stock up on parts to offer a kit and start a thread , but started building a houseboat.

    Last edited: Sep 11, 2011
  14. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    FYI. I've seen a 1/2 inch ID - 5/8 inch OD motor shaft bushing that could probably be used - the only thing that might be a problem is the key should be rectangular (3/16 W * 1/4 inch H) instead of 3/16 square, to best fit the new, elongated (by the thickness of the bushing walls) keyway opening.

    Here's the link. TSC has one too, but you would need to cut a 3/16 inch wide 'slot' in it to accommodate the key.

    The ideal adapter would be to start with the TSC bushing, machine a 3/16 inch opening down one side, then weld or braze a 3/16 x 1/4 key rigidly in place in the new slot. Ref sketch below.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 15, 2011