Too fat for a 4-stroke?

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Once I get past about 25% grade I do have to pedal assist. On an older setup I could get up 30% grades without pedaling with a reduction of 48.53:1 with the RS 35. Before I went fully automatic and manually shifted 3 front chain rings. My lowest reduction then was 55:1.
 
On an older setup I could get up 30% grades without pedaling with a reduction of 48.53:1 with the RS 35.

Now that i do believe, but 8 mph is a little optimistic for a 33cc 4-stroke engine.

Even so, my point is an irrelevant one, because the bike only has to get you up a murderously steep hill without excessive sweat. Whether it's at 8 mph or (in my case) 4 mph, the most important thing is that it pushes the bike up the hill.
 
That's why I'm using my curremt setup with with the Honda the only thing which will change is the GB-SK ratio (18:44) to (22:44). Staton has a gas electric hybrid gearbox now. I plan to have an electric motor to assist the RS35.
 
Actually you might want to consider a 66cc 2-stroke with expansion chamber and 3-speed shift, that will get you up even 6% grade hills.

Actually if your business is an extension of your hobby in a lot of states you can run out of your house.You also have the option of getting a variance.Its done all the time.
Sorry but your the one with half assed crap in this case.
You are entirely correct Bob, and Arizona is pretty friendly to guys like me.

I have been self employed working from home since 1987 (Custom built high end PC's until 2009) and though I have had many opportunities including one next week to open a store front, I don't want to!
I love what I do and where I do it now and don't want to change a thing.

I'm plenty official, pay my taxes, my customers are thrilled with what I build them, and my work speaks for itself.

I appreciate you guys shinning a little different light on your views of my knowledge and actual work than the Yank, the guy has issues with me I guess.
 
I wonder what the odds are that the so called builder has a liability policy in case somebody gets hurt on what he builds/sells. I know where I work we carry a 1million dollar policy if are a real shop you would have one and a tax id plus employer ID if have people working for you and PAY all the costs that come with being a REAL shop like workmans comp if you don't your just another CHUMP selling out of his garage. And KC you have publicly stated you can't afford a store front or pay workmans comp for your workers.. I am sure I look I could find those posts on Facebook
 
If you are an incorporated full C-Corp you don't need liability insurance to protect your assets. Product liability is suggested.
An employer that employs part time help doesn't need to meet the same requirements as full time.If those workers are hired as subcontractors no comp is required.

I don't like garage operations as much as any other legit business, but if a garage operation it operating within the law then so be it. Much of our manufacturing base is headed to a cottage industry anyway.


IY,
You really are out in left field with your comments, you would be wise to drop it.KC is doing nothing wrong, if you don't like his products then don't buy them.
 
If you are an incorporated full C-Corp you don't need liability insurance to protect your assets. Product liability is suggested.
An employer that employs part time help doesn't need to meet the same requirements as full time.If those workers are hired as subcontractors no comp is required.

I don't like garage operations as much as any other legit business, but if a garage operation it operating within the law then so be it. Much of our manufacturing base is headed to a cottage industry anyway.


IY,
You really are out in left field with your comments, you would be wise to drop it.KC is doing nothing wrong, if you don't like his products then don't buy them.
last time I checked this WAS the United States of America in this country there is something called free speech and I have not said anything that has not been said by HIM in a public forum or sites like FACEBOOK. So you sire can go have an intimate relationship with your self as soon as you find it possible.. Have a great day. You want to be called pro builder and get the respect that comes with it do more then just install a kit somebody else made on a bicycle somebody made in CHINA and claim you built it. As a monkey can be trained to turn a wrench.
 
last time I checked this WAS the United States of America in this country there is something called free speech and I have not said anything that has not been said by HIM in a public forum or sites like FACEBOOK. So you sire can go have an intimate relationship with your self as soon as you find it possible.. Have a great day. You want to be called pro builder and get the respect that comes with it do more then just install a kit somebody else made on a bicycle somebody made in CHINA and claim you built it. As a monkey can be trained to turn a wrench.
You have become a real source of amusement for me Yank.

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I am familiar with the stereotype of guys like you, but you are the poster man for it.
Apparently those that can't do just ridicule and slander those that can.

Very sad considering a couple of the what, 5 MB's you built don't look bad.

Funny they were all kits too because a kit is just the parts to make something.

How you use parts separately from kits and getting or making the other parts you want is what differentiates between the rookie and the pro as a pro has seen it all dozens of times over for the basics and sets a new bar for new things and ways.

Slander away Yank, it's all evidence.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies. At this point in time I'm aiming for a Tanaka PF-4000 on a new Staton-inc axle mounted kit, and using an 11-tooth sprocket on the gear reduction box (w/a 60-tooth sprocket on the left side freewheel). My top speed on level ground will only be 24mph (+/- 1mph), but with the Tanaka I should have more torque on the long, steep hills I need to climb.

I like the Staton axle mounted kit, rather than other kits, because it not only gets the engine out of my way when I want to pedal, but it also allows me to put a touring-quality rear rack above the rear tire, onto which I can attach a milk crate as well as a right-side pannier. That way I can haul gear, be it groceries or be it camping stuff. I have also conceptualized a way to attach a single-wheel trailer to the rear of the rack for hauling my skis in winter, or my guitar case.

As for the pedal-side drivetrain, I plan on starting out with a 42/34/24 triple front chainring, and an 8-speed 13-28 tooth thread-on freewheel. Eventually I plan to switch to a 44/33/22 with an 11-30, but one thing at a time. I'm on a fixed income and I can can only afford $200/month in upgrades. Planning for, saving for, and soon building a new kit has given me a goal, something to look forward to, a "man job" if you will, at a time in my life when things seem depressing from a certain perspective,... :cry: So, thanks for all the feedback. I appreciate it. :D
 
At this point in time I'm aiming for a Tanaka PF-4000 on a new Staton-inc axle mounted kit, and using an 11-tooth sprocket on the gear reduction box (w/a 60-tooth sprocket on the left side freewheel). My top speed on level ground will only be 24mph (+/- 1mph), but with the Tanaka I should have more torque on the long, steep hills I need to climb.
Geared low enough it should work for your needs.

Personally I like balance, low center of gravity, and cemetery for everything I can but whatever works for you like an engine sticking out off one side works for you, cool!
 
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