Too fat for a 4-stroke?

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HeadSmess

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cemetery?

KC!!!! when i buy a bike i dont want any cemetery in it at ALL!!!

oh boy, when i die im gunna get meself a genuine motor assisted hearse :)



hey...i just thought of a new business opportunity!

but being libran...i can be a tad anal about symmetry too, oh yeah :)


:giggle:
 

KCvale

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cemetery?
KC!!!! when i buy a bike i dont want any cemetery in it at ALL!!!
oh boy, when i die im gunna get meself a genuine motor assisted hearse :)

hey...i just thought of a new business opportunity!
but being libran...i can be a tad anal about symmetry too, oh yeah :)
:giggle:
Damn spell check auto-correct hehehe ;-}
Me too, totally anal at times, so be the curse of mechanic with an artists eye, they don't always play well together but you got the point despite the 'mortal imperative' typo ;-}
 

seanshonda

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if youre using a new Honda engine, they have 2 or 3 yr warranty, make them fix it. robin should have warranty also.
I run a staton friction drive honda50 w/ 1-1/2" roller, on steeper hills I pedal to motor at about 4000rpm--21 speed, 3 front-5rear, I got a bum knee but it doesn't bother me helping the motor. I think like you on the 2stroke, carrying/mixing oil is a pain. I used to have a Yamaha 2stroke scooter, but it was oil injected, no mixing, top off reservoir weekly.
not sure about weight difference between 35 & 50, but I think the mounting bolts are same pattern, staton had a 50 axle mount a few yrs ago, might still.
good ridin
 

seanshonda

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dodge made a funky motorcycle w/ dual front wheels side by side w/ weird "scissor" suspension. they put a VIPER engine on it!!!! to get out of product liability, they were sold w/o a chain, almost like art. if you put a chain on it, and had the balls, it would run.
as for other costs, 1099, theyre subcontractors now, I think youre only liable if you have known defective tools/machinery. I don't believe in 1099, was hired as one yrs ago, I quit when I found out I was responsible for workcomp & taxes while being paid the same as people who weren't.
 

darwin

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OP wants torque, buy 1 of those new EPA HS 142f's from gasbike. It has more torque than a Honda 50. You lose out on top end but it's got some cajonies on the low end. Hill near my house with the Honda I used to have to pedal to help it up that hill and near the top it would almost give out because of the stress on the motor. Now I don't even have to pedal to go up the hill, FD with a 1-1/8th roller. Decided to just live with the 20/21mph max speed and just be happy. If the bearings ever go out on the drive roller I'll slip a 1-1/4 or 1-3/8s roller on that puppy to get a lil more speed.
 

bigoilbob

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Oh hush now LR. Of the 4 points that are listed above, i believe on 3 of them: 250 lbs [and...] 30% grade hills with a 33 cc engine.
the 4th listing of 8 mph is ludicrously over optimistic for a 33cc engine

Ran across this today. I admire LR's ride, but he needs to get his gradiometer and/or speedometer checked. If you assume a 70# bike, he needs just about 2 HP to get up that grade. At the rear wheels. Even factoring in minimal losses from his efficient drive train, n'gonna happen.
 

bigoilbob

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I did read the thread, and would like to add this. I don't have the experience of some of the others, but I DO have a GX35 that I have been running at full throttle for at least 70% of the over 200 hours on it, with ZERO problems. Here is why I think I have been so lucky.

1. I chose an engine with forced air cooling
2. I chose a highly reputed engine
3. I kept the air filter cleaned and have changed out synthetic oil every 25-30 hours.
4. My Nuvinci 171 Developer's kit keeps my engine in the rpm range at or above peak torque at all times while under load, (except for between 0-3 m/h) and I limit max r/m to the Honda 8000, by backing off appropriately.

My bike is an extreme example of low power/weight doing the trick, but noteworthy. It's a recumbent tandem, geared so 2 of us can climb an 18-20% grade, at ~3.5 m/h. So, personally, staying below 50cc is worth it, and can serve you well at your weight. I'm not looking over my shoulder, and I can throw my ride in the back of my truck and use it when we travel from Missouri to California to visit the blessed grand daughter. I know many folks (including my bro) have been successfully cheating cc prosecution for years, but I don't need that stress. For me, a high high/low range transmission, with low power but stump puller sprocketing is the right combo, and is more definably a "motorized bicycle".
 
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dirtwarrior

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Sorry to jump into this thread but the info is interesting. I am going to use the stanton friction drive on my trike. I do want a 2 stroke engine. Will a larger chainsaw engine work with this kit?
 

HeadSmess

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no.

chainsaws have rather "purpose specific" type motors. they dont have "standard" mounts. the pull starters arent directly attached to the engine. some have integral oil and fuel tanks. some dont. and, invariably, they spin "backwards" compared to standard brushcutter/stationary types.

a chainsaw is a very hard engine to use on anything!
 
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