Trouble starting 49mm iron sleeve

Mc2Stroke

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Local time
12:15 PM
Joined
Jun 29, 2022
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58
Location
Bakersfield Ca
Hi this is my second thread here, I originally posted some questions about my new 49mm iron sleeve which I took apart as I knew there had been others with scratched sleeves etc (mine was pretty scratched in two spots) I got a little busy and didn’t update(maybe I can throw some picture up and update there or here eventually) for the scratches I honed the cylinder sleeve then slightly chamfered the port openings and cleaned them up/ got rid of burrs / made them even afterwards got it all put back together and finally on the bike.

Here comes the new issue, after finally getting it on the bike and set up so the chain wouldn’t pop off while riding (or so I thought) I tried for about 30-45 minutes straight to get it started. At first I would just pop the clutch (fuel on and choked) and I got some pops and bangs out the pipe with a little smoke but it would not run. I started going faster and pedaling through the compression which is a little harder than I thought being it a pretty small engine ( I tried opening the choke to different positions)
Finally it started with the choke about half way open but I had to keep giving it throttle or it would die, I rode it about a 3/4 of a block back to my garage and wham back tire locked and I could tell by the sound the chain threw and it turned out it tore a spoke right through the rim.
Stupidly and in my excitement to get this thing going I must not have tightened the chain guide/tensioner tight enough cus it moved just enough for this to happen. Determined to at least get the engine running smoothly I tucked the broken spoke back and got the bike started again ( just rolling it down the driveway a couple times was working to start it at this point), it would start then die until it started for about 30seconds at which time I was blipping the throttle to keep it running then it died.
Now feeling pretty warm it would not start again.

I kind of let it sit for a while because I was busy but finally got the rim fixed and trued as best as possible, I’ve got the chain and guide/tensioner fully tightened. I put a smaller jet in it( stock was in between 70 and 75) I put in a 65 because when it did run it sounded like it was sputtering not the more hollow sound of a lean bog.
It now fires up within the first few tries but only if I have the choke about half way and if I give it throttle and it runs very rough. Then if I sit there and rev it lightly as it warms up it eventually dies and is almost harder to start ( sometimes won’t start back up at all when warm) I have moved the needle both directions with little very little difference. I’ve checked the plug which still looks new cuz it hasn’t run really long enough to show anything, I also checked the cdi (6.24 ohm) the magneto (.318-.320 ohm) the kill switch is not stuck, it’s getting fuel/ the carb is sealed with an o-ring, head bolts are tightened correctly/ gaskets looked good when I had it apart, piston rings were good( brand new) cylinder honed freshly…
There is no Ethanol free gas where I am so it’s 91 octane with 7-10%ethanol or so mixed with Powercare Synthetic Blend at 30:1 for break in. (Manual said 16:1 break in 20:1after but I though that was a little crazy based off past experiences with 2strokes)
Ive never had a 2stroke do this cuz it needed a different jet but was going to try my smallest jet to see if that makes a difference if not the biggest. The only jets I could find was a kit ( #50-80 in increments of 5) it’s the new bofeng NT knocknoff.
The bike is all stock accept a mz65 clone.
I have not been able to spray car cleaner to test for leaks cuz it won’t run long enough or well enough to do so, but when I had the head and covers off everything looked to be in place. (Was thinking of checking to see if magneto has a good ground and if the magnet is on correctly.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
 
Try putting on the stock exhaust again and then see if it starts up...If it does, you will probably have to re-tune the carb for it to run smoothly, but get it started first of all if that might indeed be the first cause problem of not starting.
 
What spark plug are you running? Try changing your plug to NGK b6hs if you havent already.
 
Thanks, I’ll try swapping to the stock exhaust and get back to you guys.
(As I changed to a smaller jet #65 maybe I’ll put the stock jet back in too unmarked but was probably a #72)

Damien is correct I am using that plug (actually a b5hs so one notch hotter), just to be sure I even tried running the plug that came with kit and it did not make a difference.

I actually noticed this evening that my plug is not seating %100 it’s probably %98, it has been very hard to screw the plug in past about %70 since I got it, as the threads had some casting burrs/ boogers which I removed as best as possible without damaging thread but it still becomes hard to tighten, to the point that the cheap spark plug tool the engine came with, though sloppy fitting and not formed well is now rounded back out beyond useable.

I just found/ ordered a spark plug thread chaser, I don’t think that is the issue but it will definitely make installing/ uninstalling the spark plug easier. Also ordered some case seals, I have spare gaskets among other items things but no extra case seals. Might go for a spare magneto and cdi too, seems those need replacing at random.
 
Thanks, I’ll try swapping to the stock exhaust and get back to you guys.
(As I changed to a smaller jet #65 maybe I’ll put the stock jet back in too unmarked but was probably a #72)

Damien is correct I am using that plug (actually a b5hs so one notch hotter), just to be sure I even tried running the plug that came with kit and it did not make a difference.

I actually noticed this evening that my plug is not seating %100 it’s probably %98, it has been very hard to screw the plug in past about %70 since I got it, as the threads had some casting burrs/ boogers which I removed as best as possible without damaging thread but it still becomes hard to tighten, to the point that the cheap spark plug tool the engine came with, though sloppy fitting and not formed well is now rounded back out beyond useable.

I just found/ ordered a spark plug thread chaser, I don’t think that is the issue but it will definitely make installing/ uninstalling the spark plug easier. Also ordered some case seals, I have spare gaskets among other items things but no extra case seals. Might go for a spare magneto and cdi too, seems those need replacing at random.
If the plug is not seated and compressing the crush ring it will not seal up and lose compression making starting and running very difficult, definitely chase/clean the threads, b5hs is too hot even the b6hs is a bit on the hot side b7hs is a better choice especially with hotter days coming.
 
If the plug is not seated and compressing the crush ring it will not seal up and lose compression making starting and running very difficult, definitely chase/clean the threads, b5hs is too hot even the b6hs is a bit on the hot side b7hs is a better choice especially with hotter days coming.
It’s about 1mm from being fully seated but the plug fits so tight at the moment it will not go any further. I would be inclined to think there’s not a big enough loss of compression to cause the problem I’m having because it’s so tight fitting, There are tapered plugs that seal by a similar tight fit vs the crush ring. It’s definitely worth addressing whether it’s the cause of the problem or not. I thought possible the spark plug is not in the optimal position to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
Looks like I’m on hold til the thread chaser comes from Amazon as far as that goes unfortunately my tap set only goes to 12mm.

May run a compression test on it just to see what it says.
As far as the plug heat range, oddly there’s still been some colder days/ more so nights here in Kern County Ca but it’s only going to get warmer. Though, to my knowledge, temperature of the weather has little affect on what heat range plug to use, but more air fuel/ratios, oil/fuel ratios, hi vs lo compression, naturally aspirated/ boosted in 4 strokes, self cleaning ability, among other things … otherwise we’d all be changing plugs two times a year right???

What heat range plug needed can vary from engine to engine depending on the factors I listed above and more so it’s hard to say if you need a colder or hotter plug until you run it long enough to read the plug. But in general a lower compression, relatively low performance/ stock engine generally run warmer plugs.
 
I just found/ ordered a spark plug thread chaser, I don’t think that is the issue but it will definitely make installing/ uninstalling the spark plug easier. Also ordered some case seals, I have spare gaskets among other items things but no extra case seals. Might go for a spare magneto and cdi too, seems those need replacing at random.
If the plug is not seated and compressing the crush ring it will not seal up and lose compression making starting and running very difficult, definitely chase/clean the threads, b5hs is too hot even the b6hs is a bit on the hot side b7hs is a better choice especially with hotter days coming.
And where @Mc2Stroke lives in Bakersfield, Ca. It can get as hot as where I am in Alamogordo, NM...I know, I have been there many times back in the early 70s...lol...I found the NGK-BR8HS the best plug for desert conditions.
 
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