Trouble with chain alignment and tensioner stability.

If chain hits bike frame after you dish out the sprocket.....then add some washers between the frame and sprocket...this will set the bike frame farther away from the engine chain....
 
they shouldn't have to steer the chain anywhere, you should have a perfectly straight line between the sprockets

In 6 years of working on these I don't recall ever seeing a totally straight run between sprockets.
 
I used a manic mechanic adapter to get a perfectly straight run, using a laser line level to be 100% sure it was perfect.
 
I refuse to build a coaster brake bike, so that over-priced adapter is not used here.
 
Flipping the sprocket so it dished outwards helped, but the chain is still misaligned in the pulley and it simply goes for a few more revolutions before slipping and pulling the chain half-off the sprocket and into the tire again. I tried running the chain without a pulley, but even at maximum tension on the bottom half, it still rubs against the bike frame where the tensioner would be mounted.

The only two things I can think of now are either making an angled pulley somehow, or finding a way to fix the pulley bracket to the frame so that it won't slip at all.
 
IF you use a tensioner please use one that attaches to the chain stay and the seat stay, attaching to only one stay is a disaster waiting to happen. Use a long stick/metal rod if needed for alignment check if eyeballing doesn't work.
 
two other things can be done if you're not up to getting it right as I explained above

one is to grind or file the sides of the teeth of the rear sprocket so that they are sharp as knives - this way they'll more easily find the gaps in the chain links

the other is to attach a long piece of metal to the top of the tensioner, then bolt that piece to the upper part of the frame so the tensioner cannot move in/out
 
Back
Top