Clutch Trying to adjust Clutch Arm?

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by 2strokepoke, Aug 26, 2011.

  1. 2strokepoke

    2strokepoke Member

    clutch cable snapped because of too much stress. whats the procedure of taking the clutch arm off the shaft?

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Remove the 3 screws from the bucking bar cover (left side of the engine) Once removed, hold cover in one hand, and while holding the arm in the other hand, pull straight up while rotating the arm.
  3. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Why do you want to take the clutch arm off the shaft?
  4. 2strokepoke

    2strokepoke Member

    to adjust it so it's not as hard of a pull.
  5. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    The first grubee I got had a faulty clutch arm. It looks like a windshield washer mating assembly. The clutch arm has splines to match the flatted rod, and a tension nut to hold them in place. I had to sand the weld in the arm's circular shape a bit and tap it on with a hammer. While I was at it, I rotated it a notch. It did improve in that my foot didn't hit it when pedaling. If you can help it, leave it in place and try lubricating your cable assembly better, adding a rubber grip to the lever surface, and filing the end of the threaded cable stop that goes on top of the engine casting (smooth it up and remove any burrs, so the cable moves easier through it. Countersinking with a drill bit helps.
  6. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Some people have adapted sliding glass door pulley wheels as clutch cable pulleys. You may also be able to get the same effect by cutting a 1" long piece of PVC pipe that is a little larger than your seat tube, then slitting it with a hacksaw so it will flex to go over the seat tube. Notch it with a hacksaw or knife all the way around, to make a cable groove. Install and run the clutch cable around it (you may have to reduce the length of the housing or use a new cable) If it bounces, you can make a longer piece that rests on the bottom bracket shell.
  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    tis weird. my first two engines had awful clutch actions.

    third one was excellent :) so thats the one i keep and swap over when needed.

    cant see anything different, cant measure any difference, but boy! is there a difference!

    before i got this nice acting one, i was cutting steel v-brake arms off and welding them on, saves having that brass nipple, makes the pull nice n smooth, but! clearing the carby can require some fiddling if you failed to think that far ahead when welding!
  8. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Wow, now that's an idea! The chinese aren't going to change anything on the HT kits, surely, but that does sound like a good idea, as long as your lever has enough cable pull to work it.

    You could use a brake cable, leaving the road brake end on , running that cable stop on the lever arm, then using the brass pinch at the lever end. No more pokes in the leg!

    I have heard of people soldering on red-coded electrical terminals, then hacking off the plastic and loop/slide connector end, for throttle cables. You could just leave it on without the plastic band, for a clutch cable with a little grip to get it out of the hole.