Trying to repair my centrifugal clutch

I just bought a spare parts motor from the same guy I have been buying all of my motor kits from. He was going to sell me the clutch kit for $40 (which is less than half of what it cost from Grubee), but the wait time was a couple months. He offered me a spare motor for $80 and I took it. It a kind of complete motor, with a cylinder and piston that was a different size than mine, but a head that was the same size. The bottom end all matched up. Now I have plenty of spare parts.

The problem was from the bolt coming loose, and I agree with you completely about the Loctite (which is on the new assembly I installed). This was the first motorized I ever built, and I had to do it without this forum, so I was pretty much working blind. I now keep blue and red loctite in my toolbox, and I use it liberally (mostly red). The red loctite will have no problem with the temperatures the clutch deals with.
 
little late but...

I just gotta say great pics, you put some real effort into resolving your problem. ciao RM
 
You probably solved the problem now, but the idea may be useful to another person.
I think that piece may be replaced with a needle bearing (i attach some picture, to give you some idea).
I have a very old version of the same engine, quite primitive, and it runs his clutch in oil. It has a needle bearing between the bell and the crank shaft.
(i put some pictures of the entire disassemble).
 

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My new one is Similar

The darned needle bearing must be out on it cause it sounds like metal on metal scraping coming from in there or my lower end musta been stored outside or something.
 
Rehashing super-old thread

Rehashing a super-old thread, sorry about that..
I have a centrifugal clutch with a bearing that cracked in the same was as the OP's.
I just ground a channel on the inside surface of the bearing (where the crankshaft goes) over where the cracks are, It looks kinda like a keyway, with the cracks above it, dumped some weld into the channels and ground the inside back to the correct size.
That solved the problem for me.
 
im in agreement with the silver solder statement.

if it can hold carbide onto a drill bit that gets slammed into rock 24/7, it can hold a cracked bush together.

or braze it, slightly hotter, more chance of distortion, but also slightly harder. bronze welding has been around for a looooong time.

whichever machine shop tried charging you $175 was the wrong machine shop!!!

guy down the road would charge me...nothing, but id give him 20 anyway.

but now i have my own tools... id make one for maybe $5... gee, its hard! drill, tap. feed bar. turn to OD, with two shoulders. part off. clamp in mill and run cutter across smaller shoulder to give the "D" shape.

want it hardened? $10 cus id have to order 4140 or similar, and then fire up the forge... possibly finish grind to size.
 
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