Turn signals, will it work?

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Fongore_Guibergu, Apr 30, 2009.

  1. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    Allo all!

    I'm starting to work on my motorized bike soon and have been looking at various types of lights. I do want a slight retro feel my self and want to get four of this: http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_info.php/cPath/124_25_51/products_id/1289

    Hook them up to this http://www.bikerhiway.com/universal...paign=frgl&utm_medium=frgl&utm_source=froogle

    and this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062537&tab=summary

    My questions were this:
    A. Would it work?
    B. What type of battery do I use?
    C. Would I need anything else?

    I appreciate your time in reading this thanks.

  2. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    It should work. You need 12V to drive the relay. It probably wouldn't hurt to get some LED replacement bulbs for the lights, to hold down the power draw.
    Last edited: May 1, 2009
  3. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    Thanks. Thanks for the link as well.
  4. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    The flasher module looks good, similar to what I'm using on my ride. The ability to run LED or incandescent and a variable flash rate is a definite plus.
    The switch will work HOWEVER I would suggest going with a pre-made switch cluster for scooters or mopeds.

    I am using this switch cluster, it has a main light switch that I use to turn my tail/plate and headlight on. A momentary horn button, and a three way switch for directionals. Fits perfectly to my standard handlebar with a set screw. It's rated to 10 or 15A I believe. More than enough for a bike lighting system.
    One side of mine came exposed so I could see where each wire went to, I had to epoxy that side to seal it, sand it down and paint it to make it a sealed unit. Buy it, You'll be HAPPY!

    I would also suggest getting a 14.8v lithium poly battery with circuit protection at 5ah+. The weight savings, smaller size and built in over discharge, over charge and high and low voltage cutoff built in make these batteries many times better than a dumb heavy SLA with no battery management system. They're more expensive than SLA but they'll last much longer.
    This is the one I got. Yes it's pricey but it'll probably serve me longer than my mitsu engine.

    Check my XR75 thread, I have some other wiring and general info there. I used the SLA on that bike so I know the difference in performance between the two.
    Feel free to PM me with any questions. Have fun!
  5. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    You have outlined a similar system to what I am using, but I used the linked universal motorcycle flasher. It is $8.95 and works with LEDs or incandescent.


    With that flasher, all you have to do is run a positive line from the battery in one side of the flasher and out the other to the center terminal on the switch you linked (same switch I am using). Then run a line from the proper terminal to the light and from the light, back to the negative terminal.

    I added indicator lights. I mounted the switch in the smallest project box Radio Shack sells, then I mounted a green neon light (wired parrallel to the turn signal) on either side of the switch so that when I switch it that way, the indicator flashes on the proper side. The only complication is that you then have to run a ground for the neons.
    Last edited by a moderator: May 1, 2009
  6. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    Same flasher I use Hough, thanks for digging for the link.
  7. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    Thank you all for the help. Lots of options to consider. I'll let you all know what I do when I make a final decision.
  8. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    I've used those very lights as turn signals on my Whizzer. Of course, I had the benefit of having a twelve volt system, wiring harness and turn signal switch in situ, and the lights worked out fine for my bike. I posted about these turn signals last year in the Whizzer section, here's the link: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=15529
  9. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    Ahh it's you I owe the thanks to then for the turns signals. I saw your thread a while back and the link to the signals and thought they were perfect for what I had in mind for my bike. So...Thank you. :grin5:
  10. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    You're quite welcome. Actually, it's nice to know that someone actually reads my posts! :stuart:
  11. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    Ok, so I've spent the past few hours thinking about it. I really do plan on going all out with this bike. If I invest in this battery http://www.all-battery.com/148volt-6...ckwithpcb.aspx that SirJakesus provided the link for I'd want it to be able to power most if not all of my electrical system. So would it power the following entire system I had planned out for my motoredbike?:

    For turn signals: http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...oducts_id/1289 replaced with the proper sized LED's from http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.712 that loquin provided the link for. Using the flasher kit http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/LFS-1-PIN.html HoughMade provided the link for.

    For horn: http://www.bikerhiway.com/stebel-nautilus-compact-motorcycle-air-horn-black-p-869.html with this wiring kit http://www.bikerhiway.com/deluxe-wiring-kit-for-stebel-nautilus-compact-air-horns-p-809.html

    For front headlight I was gonna use: http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_info.php/cPath/124_25_51/products_id/387 (I'd want to take out the generator and have the light powered by the battery).

    For taillight I'd use: http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_info.php/cPath/124_25_51/products_id/1237

    As for a control panel I'd use http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/litusiandhos.html that SirJakesus provided the link to.

    Would this all hook up together and work? Now honestly my work with wiring up things is very limited. My original ideas when I started out would have basically been a wing-it type situation and worked closer within my experience level. My experience is really just hooking up a button to two LED’s and a battery compartment and then solder the wires. So if I did my electrical system this way I’d need someone to either write up or draw a diagram for me. My other questions with this are:

    A. Would there be a way to make the taillight a brake light as well? Meaning if I pulled the brakes my taillight goes brighter like on a car. If so what would that require? If not what would be a good alternative?

    B. If this whole system could work what else would it require? If it helps I planned on houseing everything within a military ammo case http://www.usmilitarysurplus.com/su...esid=ea5d127be1757b3c8c513da87a71ff7d&sort=4a

    I’m not sure which size I was gonna use. Once my bike gets here I was gonna measure out the back to determine it. Oh I was also gonna mod out the case so that not only did the top open, so did the side (for those curious on how I was gonna fit my hands in there).

    Sorry for the long post. I do appreciate all that everyone has been doing so far for this noob (me).
  12. Nuttsy

    Nuttsy Member

    I've got the Flash Gordon looking light on the back of my cruiser. I replaced the bulb with an 1156 Red LED and its really bright and noticeable in broad daylight. You could take out the socket and replace it with an 1157 socket and then use an 1157 bulb for brake/tail combo (either incandescent or LED). It would probably be easier to just add a second light for brake. I'm also running a Harbor Freight round marker light on the back fender (also LED). Its just as bright as the Flash Gordon so I'm thinking of hooking up the "Flash" to a brake switch so I'll have one of each.
    Why are you dropping the generator? I have that same BikeWorld set and USE the generator to charge the battery. You just have to add an in-line circuit called a bridge rectifier. Ya make it out of 4 diodes. That converts the a/c output of the generator to d/c. Also, DEFINITELY use LED's in the headlight. I melted the reflector in mine using incandescent of 9 watts...too much heat! LED is brighter anyway.
    As long as you keep most, if not all of your lighting with LEDs, the battery should last a good, long time.
  13. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    I just figured I'd get rid of the generator if I was gonna invest in the battery. I'll make a note about switching out the light for LEDs
  14. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    The only problem I see is that horn, it says it comes with a 30 amp relay. I dont know if that means it draws 30 amps but I wouldnt be surprised if it has an air compressor in it. The battery is rated and capped at a 6.3A current MAX. I would go with as high a DB compact motorcycle horn I could find. Mine is stamped 105db and its louder than the three vehicle horns at our household. Buy one from a local auto or motorcycle shop, one I bought from the net wasn't powerful at all.
    I would wait on buying the LED replacement bulbs until you have the fixtures in hand to examine them unless somebody else here can say for sure that X bulb will fit. Keep in mind that the battery is not standard goods by any means. I'm technically pushing the limits of 12v appliances as I'm running close to 15.5v when the battery is completely charged. I haven't had any electrical breakdowns and my lights are very VERY bright and the horn is very stong using this battery. This may come at the expense of decreased LED lifespan. Be sure to get some tamiya connectors and the appropriate charger.
    Get a bunch of insulated automotive connectors, electrical tape, liquid electrical tape, lots of 18 to 20 ga copper auto wire, wire crimper/cutter/striper, multi-meter for measuring system voltage/continuity/resistance (these come in very handy).
    The ammo box will work but it's quite a bit heavier than a frame/handlebar/underseat cloth bag. Many of these are extremely water resistant.
    To make the tail/brake light I used some brake levers for scooters that have a switch in them. When the lever isn't used the switch is open and no current passes. When squeezed the switch closes and current flows through a loop from battery+>light>Battery-. My brake light is half dim when the system has its running lights on (tail and plate). I did this by inserting a resistor between the taillight and the running light switch. To get the brakes to make the light twice as bright I used the brake lever switch as a bypass around the resistor to give the light full power. I bought a bundle pack of various small resistors from radioshack.com and just did a trial and error thing until I found the dimming I liked since I had no idea how much current the taillight used. Read up on ohms law to get some guidance on the matter.
    The easier way to do tail lighting is to simply run one light as the tail and have the brake levers activate a second light as your brake. Overall it's not as neat but it shouldn't really eat up any more juice and your running taillight will be brighter while consuming the same amount of Watts.

    I have the same 12v6w generator, I was hoping to eventually incorporate it for battery charging but I'll have to hook up a diode to get DC out of it. If or when I get this going I'll share.

    Hope I didn't miss anything or post too much.. or just confuse the heck out of you.

    Last edited by a moderator: May 5, 2009
  15. Fongore_Guibergu

    Fongore_Guibergu New Member

    I'll keep all that in mind. To make it a little easier for me I prolly will have two back lights one on and one for brake. Do you have a link to the horn you use? I tried looking in your thread for it with no luck.
  16. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    ITEM HRN-12 http://www.electricscooterparts.com/horns.html
    I got the black one first but it was a dud and really weak, the silver 12v horn is startlingly loud when coming from a bicycle.

    And I forgot to mention, don't cheap out on the wire crimper/stripper. The cheap ones are awful to use. Get one with a wide padded handle not the thin cheapo ones. It'll save you a lot of pain in your hands.