Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

Discussion in 'Electric Bicycles' started by AussieJester, Sep 9, 2009.

  1. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

    * this worklog is now upped on several bicyle related forums as such some names mentioned in this log now and in the near future maynot pertain to members specific to this forum, any confusion this causes i apologises for in advance...

    Time has come to build myself another e-bike! a TWO WHEEL* e-bike even!!

    Some may or may not have already seen the design i have entered into the Free single stage drive "Contest"

    This will be the worklog for that build!

    I see some members here idea of a "custom build" is to start with a pile of battery cells then
    2-3 pages of assembling the packs and fitting the BMS etc etc etc then bolt on a hub motor:-S...
    bout as interesting and exciting to me as watching paintdry...no offence intended SO...
    You wont see that here i can guarantee you that! ill be using 5000mah 22v Lipo packs when
    the bikes done...that it for battery info until i purchase batteries in a month or twos time..<--YES Deecanio I WILLZ finally be "GangSta" :p

    The e-bike i have in mind is a low slung stretched cruiser design with linear actuators raising
    and lowering a set of stabiliser wheels too keep the bike upright whilst transferring to
    and from the bike from my wheelchair. The bike will have operational pedals
    as such my feet will need to be strapped to the pedals and the stabiliser wheels used
    when starting and stopping...

    I will be fabricating the frame from scratch & if all goes well it will vaguely resemble this--->


    The motor (i have) is the Turnigy HXT 130-->

    (additional glue will be applied to magnets and bearings replaced)

    I picked this up Friday from a fella (Joe) that spotted my trike video on YouTube and got interested in building an e-bike...he has since decided
    a motorcycle (bobber) is the direction he is going to take, the HXT was bought for $AU150 NEVER USED..

    So i have the motor...i still require to purchase ESC, servo driver and a BEC...I am leaning towards
    the Sentilons ESC i'm not as insane as Liveforphysics (any more anywayz) so i'm hoping i wont have the 8in flames shooting out the unit as
    in Luke's case haha...:p BEC...no idea haven't seen one capable of running on 44v yet worse comes to worse
    i guess a battery hooked directly to the ESC will suffice, no biggy will work that out when the time comes.

    i think the servo tester i'll go with what Mr Recumpence SIR sells...waiting to hear back from Matt on this and
    a single stage drive...If you have a suitable BEC also Matt i would be interested in price/avaiability/freight charges ...

    Today I picked up the tubing and mild steel plate I will use for constructing the custom frame-->


    Larger OD tube is 35mm the smaller is 21mm


    Large OD tube has 2mm wall thickness...Smaller OD tube is 3mm<--smaller to be used for the rear half of frame.
    Total cost for tubing $AU45

    I also went out to Bills Machinery AWESOME place
    officially now my fav establishment I could spend days there browsing, if they ever need a
    place for an Aussie version of Junkyard Wars (Scrapheap Challenge for the English members)
    Bills is the place!! I picked up a 10in 'V' pulley that will require machining to suit 5mm pitch flat belt,
    I have spoken to a good mate of mine and he said he will take it too his work and turn it
    down on the lathe for me--->


    I shall then add teeth to it in the same manner Matt (1000watt) has done on his pulley for the cruiser. Using spare belt, release
    agent and epoxy. Matt also picked up a 21tooth pulley for me online (see pic of motor)
    when he ordered a spare for himself...I'm hoping to swap this for the sprocket Matt (Recumpence) puts
    on the reduction drive unit...

    I plan to start the fabrication of the frame tomorrow. First things first a frame jig will be knocked up
    to 'hold' the head tube, the two bottom brackets and rear axle drop-outs.
    This will likely take best part of the day, i shall return with the pics of the days activities...

    As always i hope all that view this thread get something from it, if anyone
    has any questions OR ideas please feel free to chip in.


    * indicates 2 wheels PLUS 2 additional retracting stabilising wheels
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2009

  2. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member


    Well it took FOUR bloody hours to make ONE extra wide botttom bracket today ****! im out of
    practise haha Turns out OCC and WestCoast Chopper bicycles have 120mm wide bottom brackets...the
    mission is to make two of these for the frame, thankfully Matt (1000watt) has offered me his
    extra wide bottom bracket shaft and threaded ends so only one shaft is needed to be made thankfully


    Last pic you can see i have smeared some JB Weld around to fitt a few imperfections from the welding will
    sand the majority of it off when its set...


    ( did this vid specially for Other Doc to show how accurate/true/straight the extended
    shaft ended up, no beavers chewing metal in this workshop Other Doc hehehe...:: looks about ::: where is Other Doc :-| )

    Not very exciting stuff but obviously essential for the build, i will have two bottom brackets, one up
    front for the cranks and one midway on the frame, I plan to have the crank sprocket on the front left side going
    to mid bottom bracket where another sprocket will be mounted, on the right side ANOTHER freewheel
    going to the back wheel...So we have the motor driving the left hand side of the rear wheel,
    pedal power the right...Going to be rather cramped with frreewheels, pulley and rotor ALL
    good though I have angle grinder WILL make it fit hahaaa

    More tomorrow chaps...

    Last edited: Sep 9, 2009
  3. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member


    I Started bending the tube for the cruisers frame today, i have changed the design slightly
    to the sketch, for the better i think hehe...as always heres a few pics-->


    The bottom pic is a 2 minute photochop excuse the "dodginess" haha thought might give a good indication what i am seeing n my head anywayz

    The notching of the tubes went well each one i did was hassle free ... I have welded the bottom tube the rest is still sitting
    loosely sitting in place, I will finish the remain cuts and have the front half of the frame tacked up tomorrow
    and the majority of the back also completed..back with more then fellas...


    EDIT: *Note..Forks, bars, stem pictured WILL NOT be used in
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  4. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    I like your jig for holding everything straight for welding.
    I just use two steel bedframe rails clamped to the wheels and a level with some cinderblocks.
    Your method of toothing up a smooth pully is very clever..
    Any tips to make it easier.
    The reason I always use chains is that I can get them alot easier than I can get toothed pulleys.
    Either from staton, thats dax or

    The hardest part when I build is the patience to clean all of the old paint off the donor bike pieces.

    I hope you win .
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  5. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Cheers spad4me...The toothing f the pulley method is ingenious unfortunately i can't take credit for it it was suggested to my mate Matt when the belt on his electric crusier was slipping, it turned out so well i was in disbelief it looked like it was bought like it, it is still running well with no signs of wear to!

    The frame jig (of some sorts...your method of clamping two straight edges is actually quite popular and again my mate Matt used this method on his ride with great success)
    Its a must, the frame needs to be straight and true at the speeds we intend travelling on this bike.

    Toothed pulleys are actually very cheap and easy to come by its the same old saying though, you just have to know where to look LoL Simple one is Robotmarket place they have a extensive range but there are dozens of sites on the net, the hassle i forsee is belt size, your unable to remove links with a belt so you need to get it your build done, measure the belt size required then order. The trouble though IMHO is well worth it, i was sold when Matt bought his cruiser you and we went for a ride, ZERO SOUND i mean NONE from the drive train. The loudest thing was the freewheel clicking of the 3 speed hub i s h i t you not. Amazed i was, there and then i decided thats what im doing next build no matter how much hassle or cost involved, i also plan to convert my trike to belts when i finish this build. The belts also have a long life span no stretch and are as efficient as a chain in transferring power with the quiet factor to boot :)


    p.s RE: the comp...things are looking good at them moment i am leading the vote count... fingers crossed :)
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  6. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Front Frame Fabrication Complete!


    Sorry fellas but i didn't get quite as much accomplished today as i thought i would yesterday, i have
    spent ~4 hours in the workshop but started feeling sickly in the stomach around lunch time
    due to having a couple of Jacks and Cola last night and nothing too eat i think, when i blew
    a small hole (first one in as long as i can remember) when welding up the last of the frame
    i new it was time to call it a day.

    I did get the front half of the frame fab completed though, I reshaped the front down tube more to match the
    drawing and less like my trike frame, i like it ALOT better than the 'pointy' front it had yesterday, i will also
    now be able to mount the front bottom bracket almost directly on the front down tube, i stuck one
    in position with masking tape before i came in and the pedal clearance is excellent! Thankyou again to
    Al.Fisherman on MotoredBikes.com for taking the time to answer my question on bottom bracket
    height in prompt time appreciate your time buddy :) With the bottom bracket Mounted on the inner front tube now
    the bikes pedals will be 4inches from the ground making the bracket ~10in from lowest
    point to the ground, AMPLE clearance i think...

    As always pics of the mornings activities-->


    The frame is completely welded now she came up beautiful im very happy with the look now i am also
    considering adding another horizontal tube about 1/4 of the way up the frame, this will be the level
    the front bottom bracket it at, below this tube the mechanism for the stabilisers could be mounted
    and then enclosed with aluminium sheet.

    All opinions and suggestions welcome fellas, i shall get myself a good feed and a sleep (was up most of the night couldn't sleep)
    and be bright and enthusiastic tomorrow to finish the frame off...

    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  7. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Rear Dropouts Completed


    I failed to reach my objective of completing the rear end for the frame, unfortunately
    the drop-outs used my last grinding disk AND cuttoff disk i thought i had extras
    but alas i found out i didnt..Lack of $$$ till pay day tomorrow for replacement
    forced me to call it a day as i need gthe disks to notch the tubing :: sigh :: always
    something sent to test my patience LoL Anywayz...i DID finish the rear drop-outs
    heres how i went about it-->


    The drop-outs were cut from 5mm thick mild steel, prolly thicker than some of
    you would use for your custom rides but seeing this rear end will have ALOT
    of stress put on it i tend to go overkill Last thing i need is the frame to fail when im hooting down the
    road at 60km/hr LoL

    Shall get to Bunnings (local Hardware chain in Australia) tomorrow morning
    and get stuck into the tubing for the frame in the afternoon..

    Back same time same channel with update tomorrow HOPEFULLY with a frame that looks complete LoL

  8. safe

    safe Active Member

    Your work is (as always) very good. I can appreciate the time it takes to get these things together. My feeling is that things always take twice as long as you hope they will take and that's when you are lucky.

    It's looking good...
  9. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    For those that haven't kept up with the reduction drive competition thread on Endless Sphere Greenhill was the winner(congrats again buddy), HUGE thankyou to all that supported both of our designs i encourage all of your who have even a fleeting interest in RC motors on ebikes to follow Greenhills build, I believe it will be extremely helpful to the 'newbies' with minimal tools and skills wanting to learn how to fit out an rc motor equipped e-bike (note- im in NO WAY referring that Greenhill has minimal skills here quite the contrary he is very skilled individual...i look forward to following his project also...)

    Matt Recumpence has received full payment(pending transfer) for the reduction drive i will be using on this build and has so generously donated the linear actuators AND the HV110 ESC free of charge for this build the man never stops giving to this community does he!! I have also organised a throttle interface with built in current limiting feature from Head Honcho on Endless Sphere one Mr Fechter , these are custom design unit buy Fechter allowing full "plug and play" of throttle and esc also includes BEC to power ESC. All that remains component wise is BATTERIES...these will be purchased as later date. initially 4x 22v 5000mah Turnigy packs will be run in parallel and series for 44v 10ah pack....this will be upgraded again in near future (soon as funds allow) to 44v 20ah ie. another 4 packs. The total weight of the 4 packs equals ONE 12v 20ah SLA!

    PLEASE if your considering powering an e-bike with Lithium-ion polymer (Lipo) battery tech READ UP ON THE DANGERS and make sure you understand the hazzards! they are the best energy density battery on the market but the can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if not treated properly during both discharge and charging HOUSE's HAVE been BURNT TO THE GROUND FROM LIPO FIRES...I have experience with this technology being a former RC helicopter flyer and am aware of the dangers and how lipos must be treated, if your not willing to learn what is involved in treating Lipos and want a safer battery solution that can't blow up on you i STRONGLY suggest looking to another technology...perhaps the safer Lifep04 batteries.

    Well i have many people wishing to see this build progress so im getting my *** out to the workshop thankyou all for your support and extreme generosity's...back lil later with an update on the afternoons proceedings.

    Last edited: Sep 16, 2009
  10. POPS

    POPS Member

    Hey Kim

    Can't wait for your next post!!!!

    It's a pleasure to watch a master builder in A go around (walk around ?).

    Your work and inovation is outstanding!!!

    One question off topic and on my build if you will please?

    How far do you think I could go with with a NuVinci hub, Cyclone 500 watt, and 2 12 volt SLA's at 28 AH. Rough guess on any given bike???

    I'm sorry if your choked with my question in the middle of your thread!

    Thanks for your shareing your insite and keep up the Good Work Mate

    Why did you go hard tail insted of sus???

    I have a bad back and I have to build with sus.

    Another springer front ??:detective:

    Last edited: Sep 17, 2009
  11. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Thanks for the kind words and support PoPs :)

    The cyclone 500watt and a nuVinci hub you say..12v 28ah...
    you will get a far bit of distance wont be exillerating performance
    though buddy, depending on terrain and pedal assist i would estimate
    ~15-20milebut dont hold mme to that. IMHO you would be better
    off going with 3 12v SLAs if you can swing it and ramp it up to 36v

    With regards to the hard tail rear, TBH i dont really know LoL...i preach
    to most get a full suspension bike and here i am going with a hard
    tail LoL...I have a lil surprise in tonights update though PoPs might
    make a lil more sense when you see the last too pics buddy (thsts just
    a "dummy" seat too, its one of my old ones off the first trike that
    i cut down a lil too far, bit too uncomforatble for me, will either
    re-upholster or buy a new one and cut it down again like i did on
    the trike, they are only 20 bucks from Movement Systems here in Perth :)

    Sprnger front end? not on this one buddy. I am still in two minds which
    way to go and am waiting on a a mate to bring around a Mountain bike
    shock he has for me too slap on the bike for a look, if this isn't used
    i might...miiiight not firm, build a fork similar to this-->




    (fork on the bike on right of pic)

    OK PoPs..wait no longer for an update here ya go SIR-->


    Bit of a late one today the rear of the frame is progressing
    along nicely but boy am i knackered, long days take it out
    of this ole timer haha.... I had to redo my work several
    times this afternoon until i was satisfied...i think the
    neighbours might have also picked up a few new swear
    words, wasn't easy sailing by a long shot i just wasn't
    on my game today, in the end though, it all came together
    and im rapt rapt with the look...here's what i have for you
    all this evening anywayz-->


    The rear dropouts are fully welded inside , ill get some
    close up MACROs tomorrow in the daylight, you cant
    see the welds i run a double fillet weld adn hit it with the
    flap disk it looks nice IMHO... I have also shown in the
    last two pics WHY i have opted to mount the upper rear
    tubing in front of the "seat tube" doing so leaves adequate
    area for the "mini shock" that will suspend the seat and save
    my kidneys ;-) The tubing IS NOT welded to the frame
    at all, i want to complete the lower tubing tomorrow
    prior to welding. The gap between the rear drop-outs is
    180mm the 3 speed i intend using for "everyday cruising"
    is 175mm from lock nut to lock nut. I intend to rip a
    rear wheel off my trike tomorrow (has 20x4.25 rims/tires
    and slot it into the rear end to make 100% sure there's
    adequate clearance, i know there is but i'm HANGIN
    to see how she looks with a fat 4inch 20 on the ***
    end haha......ok I'm out please if you have any
    suggestions or question feel free to fire away...

  12. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Completed Rear Frame Pics


    In a bit of a rush have a few buds dropping in this evening after work for drinks, so i wont ramble on suffice to say
    i completed the a s s end of the frame today, it is 95% fully welded towards end of day my trigger in the welder hand piece
    is sticking, will fix this tomorrow and complete the welds on the frame..pics of afternoons work-->


    I'm very happy with the way it has turned out, only welds not fully completed are the underside of the tubing, topsides all fully welded..

    I shall move on to the suspension mechanism for the seat next...more soon

  13. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Beautiful work (as always). When they build batteries that can get me 33 miles at speed (or if I move closer to town), this will be an important reference work.
  14. Egor

    Egor Guest

    OK Kim, I have the same pipe bending outfit, I am going to bend some pipe! I love this stuff. I noticed one thing, if I may, on the drop outs you are cutting out a notch for your tubes, all you need to do is put slots to insert into the pipe with a center portion to help hold the pipe in place. Hope this helps. Have fun, Dave

    PS: This is the only bike I ever made, no bent pipe, LOL. I gave it to the kid riding it, he rides it to work every day.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 18, 2009
  15. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Available now buddy looking around 400-500 checkout Headway cells 3.2v 10ah for 17 bucks direct Lifep04 (tech also need a BMS with them)...a decent setup for electric is well over 1000 bucks (NOT including bike) that's not too say you cant do it for half that but you get what you pay for if you do it half assed on the cheap its liable to put you off when it doesnt perform as expected. So yeah the techs there if you have the $$$ to pay for it which is a d a m n shame IMO it puts alot off i know. We have members on ES with bikes of upto 200km range on a charge no pedalling. For the average Joe its just makes better economical sense to pay 250 bucks for s 49cc motor strap it on a wallmart bike top it off with 2 bucks of gas, yes im afraid the electric is priced out makes it a hard sell to all but the oober green environmentalists, the super anal about noise and those like me looking for superior performance.. if your after the thrills of speed you wont get a 49cc anywhere close to the performance (acceleration and top speed) of a top notch electric ;-) ...cheers for the positive feedback much appreciated :)

    Egor...yeah i was going to simply slot them the trike dropouts were done that way, i chopped the bulk out this time merely as a weight saving issue its 5mm plate the rectangular chunks arent much but hey every lil bit helps right ;-)

    I'll give you a lil tip with these benders i only just picked up for this build off RatRod bikes...unfortunately to say these benders on light tube dont go so well, they bend it no probs there but they leave lil indents on the tubing both from the under side curved die and the two rollers. What i saw a fella do which is so simple its silly but it works...wrap a piece of rag half a dozen or so times around the rollers and no more marks on the top of the tube. As usual mark 20mm increments on your pipe and a centre mark on the curved die take the slack up and when you first feel the pipe under tension start pumping and count each stroke. do this as you work your way along each 20mm increment, you will come up with a nice bend that way. I use slightly heavier pipe than bicycle tubing, i feel all but the high end production stuff on the market is too light for motored bikes that are able to go at 40 plus MPH so I like to ramp the strength up a notch. If you find the bike tube creasing you can compact sand into the tube, if you do it has to be really tightly packed in and the ends of the tubing sealed. Building a custom frame is awesome though you get free range to make what ever you like and to be totally honest it really aint that difficult or expensive this frames cost me 45 bucks in tubing and 25 for a spool of welding wire :-S

    Best of luck anywayz shall keep an eye out for your build :)

    Last edited: Sep 18, 2009
  16. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Apparently all of a sudden, well... since augidog had a
    little cry to the admins my language isn't acceptable anymore on
    Motoredbikes.com never been a problem until now nobodies said anything
    before i have cussed on occasion throughout my worklogs which
    i have now suggested be removed as they too are littered with
    'cuss' words, you can thank auidog for the disappearance of
    any of the logs. ...anyone wants to continue viewing my
    work can do so at Endless Sphere aor the 3
    other forums that my work is displayed on that cater for adult
    language. ...thanks to those that have supported the build

    Last edited: Sep 19, 2009
  17. POPS

    POPS Member


    keep in touch ...see PM...rickdompnier@msn.com...POPS (Rick)

    Gots to go to bed now...252AM...POPS
  18. AussieJester

    AussieJester Member

    Last edited: Sep 21, 2009
  19. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    you do fine work kim !!!
    shame the dog chased you away :(:(:(
    you are not the only one :(
    I will try to keep up on endless sphere :cool2:
  20. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    I will track your build on endless sphere. I just joined. LOL